for $700k, I would hope that it would come with a free....flag!
Don't forget the undercoat.
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@john-putnam: the Scoth-Guard for the upholstery and the extended warranty
For all you guys that have your survey truck... is it gas or diesel??ÿ Is going diesel the best route since apparently they get better mileage and the engine lasts a bit longer?
@bstrand: sounds like a good topic for a poll.
@bstrand When I bought my truck in 2000, I paid $4k (dealer cost) more for the diesel.?ÿ Back then it seemed worth it.?ÿ The increased mileage along with the cheaper fuel would pay for it.?ÿ Then the gas companies got wise and now diesel cost rival that of premium.?ÿ That being said, I have 345k on it and I love the low rev torque for off road.?ÿ I'd have a hard time doing it again.
@bstrand I would have to say that depends. Most don't get better mileage than a gas engine but the difference comes in when you're loaded/hauling. Most pickup diesels get about the same mileage under load, so there is that given we're always at least loaded. Our gas powered 3/4 tons would get 17 mpg average unloaded, 14 mpg loaded. The diesel would get 15 mpg no matter what. The major difference in the cost was repairs. Our mech would get a big grin on his face whenever he'd see a diesel come in. Cost were always higher. We just let our 1999 F250 go with 296,000 + miles. It was gas and never had a problem expect it kept ruining calipers. 1994 K2500 diesel put it out to pasture with 320,000+ for the same reason as the F250...body. Had to replace 2 head gaskets (something I could still do myself) so I can't complain. It's something you'd have to think about.
I have both, never getting a diesel again.?ÿ
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2004 Tundra 4.7l. @Purchased 2012 with 43725miles.
Currently has 273k miles. Besides a few sets of brake pads and a wheel bearing, bomber truck.
Buy as a second owner only and with verifiable mileage and you'll do ok.
Dont count mileage in mpg because you'll waste brain power worrying about that.
Do a P&L statement and incorporate that into your business plan for purchase of the truck and other equipment and consequently the depreciation too.
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My $0.02
I use to joke about my 2003 F350 diesel....I love this truck so much I've bought it twice
injectors, failed turbo, eats brakes due to weight.....,?ÿ only ford could read engine codes,?ÿ smog cert trouble
I now drive a 2018 tundra......diesels are for heavy loads/tows only
My current work vehicle is a 2016 jeep Grand Cherokee diesel. Previous to that it was a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a V8. The V8 was more peppy, faster accelerating, but the diesel gets significantly better gas mileage (but diesel costs more in most areas). When I was in Ecuador (without my vehicle of course), I noticed that gasoline was about $2.50 a gallon, while diesel was $0.99 a gallon.?ÿ
This is a good vehicle for me, I typically do photo control so I don't need a lot of gear or supplies. And I always get it loaded, comfort is very important. Only complaint I have about the diesel is that the check engine light is always on, has to do with the emission system, to chek it they charge $125, and they fix it, but then it comes on again in a few days. So I gave up. The bad thing about that is the remote start will not work if the check engine light is on, and I won't know if something else comes up that would activate it. But they did give me $3500 settlement for the diesel exhaust problems.?ÿ
I also have a Silverado, that goes to jobs where we need more equipment (deformation surveys, etc). It is a 2019, before that it was a 2015 Silverado. Before that we used an H3 for about 7 years. That was Ok, good for off-road, but not enough room in the back. And it was underpowered.?ÿ
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Edit: I just saw that the president of Ecuador in late 2019 proposed eliminating the subsidy for diesel, which would make the cost go from $1.00 to $2.27. Not sure if that happened, there were probably a lot of protests over that. I do know that diesel is cheaper to refine than gasoline, not sure why there is such a big price difference in most places in the US
My current rig is a ram with a 6.4 Hemi. If I keep my foot out of it I can pull 12/18. I generally get 11/14. That drops considerablty when I push hard while towing. I can really abuse it and drop to 6 or 7 if I put my mind to it.
I intended to buy a new or lightly used diesel ram at retirement. That won't happen if they don't fix that god-awful front end from 2020.
I like to have a good cruising range when I take the trailer off grid. With a diesel I can ditch the big fuel cans.
So I am assuming when you say "truck" that you need a dedicated work rig that's a full size 3/4 or 1 ton pickup. If not then disregard all this below as you probably need something smaller or more economical than what I am about to describe.
I bought a used 2011 F350 crew cab SRW 6.7L powerstroke with 6 speed auto trans back in early 2016 from a friend who just had to have the newest model out there - it was the best purchase I ever made & tows whatever I want to put behind while unloaded I get almost 16mpg with 4" of lift & 35" tires (truck is tuned/deleted). Towing a Kubota tractor or mini excavator or CAT's 299XHP skid steer I can still get almost 11mpg with all attachments/implements loaded up.
My family's business has always had Ford diesels since the mid 90's (for construction & towing) - they're excellent work trucks & you'll get tired of it before it gets tire of you. I've also driven a few friends' Chevy & Dodge diesel pickups but was never impressed with a Duramax (front suspension is anemic) or a Cummins (power comes in slow IMO & the ride is stiff). GM trucks cost just as much if not more than Fords & while Dodge is cheaper it also feels like it too (resale value isn't as good either).?ÿ
IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT & you foresee the need to occasionally tow heavier then get the diesel F250 (or larger). BUT DO NOT BUY THE GAS F250!!! Dad made that mistake for a 2 fleet trucks a couple years ago when fuel prices got high & he's really regretted it. His purchase were two 2016 F250's extended cab work bed gas pickups (Ford 6.2L gas motor). They get absolutely horrible fuel economy (single digits usually with work beds that aren't completely loaded) and they never tow because they just can't tow much more than a couple thousand pounds without riding everywhere in 3rd or 4th gear (sad for an automatic 6 speed trans and the relatively flat grades we have around here). Since then he's swapped back to diesel F250's, an F450 & an F550.?ÿ
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Mr math teacher, buying new trucks is "bad math".
Now, Nate, you know that it can go either way and you have to do good math to help decide. Either way, you're paying now for service in the future, so there's risk involved no matter what you do and the math is only one of the decision inputs.
Simple decision question. I'm going keep the truck I buy until it has 200,000 miles on it no matter what it takes. Here's a used one with 50,000 miles on it and here's a new one with 0 miles.?ÿ
If I can buy the used one for 75% of the cost of the new one, is that a break-even proposition? Would I be dollars ahead if I could buy the used one for 65% of the cost of the new one? What is the mileage-age-depreciation relationship?
Now, every time I've bought a vehicle, new or used, I think that I've paid full price plus 20%, so I'm not a good consultant. I can do the math but I fall down on the bargaining.
You want me for a client!
All new vehicles have a top price, (new, on showroom), and a bottom price, (crushed, and parted out, into its scrap metal price. There is a $ curve between these, where price drops a bunch, as you drive it the first day. It continues to drop, but at a slower rate on day 2. And there is a point at around 5 yrs of age, and over 100k miles where it's $ value drop rate flattens. That's where I like to buy them. Then, there is an event, towards the end of life of the vehicle, where the value drops sharply. Motor blows, or transmission goes out, and repairs are numerous, high, and "not worth fixing". I want to sell before that point. Often, that last price drop is only the price of tires, and a few parts. Maybe $500 to $1500.
Compute your miles driven, vs $ paid. Find the "sweet spot"...
That's a good way to go, unless you want to spend more $.
Keep the miles per dollars rate down.
Nate
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All new vehicles have a top price, (new, on showroom), and a bottom price, (crushed, and parted out, into its scrap metal price. There is a $ curve between these, where price drops a bunch, as you drive it the first day. It continues to drop, but at a slower rate on day 2. And there is a point at around 5 yrs of age, and over 100k miles where it's $ value drop rate flattens. That's where I like to buy them. Then, there is an event, towards the end of life of the vehicle, where the value drops sharply. Motor blows, or transmission goes out, and repairs are numerous, high, and "not worth fixing". I want to sell before that point. Often, that last price drop is only the price of tires, and a few parts. Maybe $500 to $1500.
Compute your miles driven, vs $ paid. Find the "sweet spot"...
That's a good way to go, unless you want to spend more $.
Keep the miles per dollars rate down.
Nate
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