Recessed nails

http://o-tags.com/

In Kentucky we are required to set a ferrous nail with a minimum diameter of 1/4" and a minimum length of 1-1/2".

I don't think that those fit the bill.

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I use a 4 pound hammer to beat a dent into asphalt. Otherwise, I don't recess it. I also don't set anything in concrete so I just cut an "X".

Kris Morgan, post: 404167, member: 29 wrote: I use a 4 pound hammer to beat a dent into asphalt. Otherwise, I don't recess it. I also don't set anything in concrete so I just cut an "X".

+1

This ^^^ is what I've always done as well.

I generally do not consider 2" nails, with or without washers, to be "permanent" monuments. I would not rely on such a monument to survive a winter. At least if you set them in a drill hole in sound concrete, and recess them, they have a sporting chance at surviving, so good on you for that. ("Control" nails set in sidewalk cracks and expansion joints are a pet peeve of mine.)

I recommend that you switch to the http://www.berntsen.com/Surveying/Concrete-Survey-Markers/BP-Series-Markers-for-Concrete&apos ;">Bernsten Plugs . You can get them made with any imprint you like and there is a http://www.berntsen.com/Surveying/Concrete-Survey-Markers/BP-Series-Markers-for-Concrete/ctl/ViewProduct/mid/585/itemID/406&apos ;">special recessing bit available.

If you really want to stick with nails, hammer drill bits 1 1/2" in diameter are available. Just don't go deep. That or a chisel bit for your hammer drill. Or just a broad cold chisel.

I do the same as Kris.

If I want a nail in asphalt to be "permanent" I'll drill a 1/4" hole through the asphalt and set a 6" MAG Spike. Or, preferably, drive a 1/2" iron rod into it. I don't use washers nowadays, but if I did a hammered dimple, as described by Kris, works if the asphalt has any flexibility left in it.

I use smaller MAG nails in asphalt sometimes, but only for temporary points.

I have used a gear spike (or cotton spindle, or gin spike) turned upside down to open up the area around the drill hole and create a recess. Beat on it and turn it like you would an old star drill.

Jason Graves, post: 404166, member: 9531 wrote: In Kentucky we are required to set a ferrous nail with a minimum diameter of 1/4" and a minimum length of 1-1/2".

I don't think that those fit the bill.

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Don't you have a "where practicable" clause?

Mark Mayer, post: 404181, member: 424 wrote: I recommend that you switch to the http://www.berntsen.com/Surveying/Concrete-Survey-Markers/BP-Series-Markers-for-Concrete&apos ;">Bernsten Plugs . You can get them made with any imprint you like and there is a http://www.berntsen.com/Surveying/Concrete-Survey-Markers/BP-Series-Markers-for-Concrete/ctl/ViewProduct/mid/585/itemID/406&apos ;">special recessing bit available..

For control in A/C that I feel is susceptible to scrapping, I have gone to setting the plugs. While they cost a bit more they last and go in quick with the use of or Bosch hammer drill. Anymore it seems to be near impossible to get a 2" mag nail in A/C without drilling it anyway.
On that note, Shelby tried to order some last week and both Berntsen and Markit are on back order with an to-be-determined fulfillment date.

I use 1 1/4' SS disk and countersink with a 1 1/2" hole saw. The leftover interior bump is easily crushed with the hammer.

is this something you were looking for?

ANOTHER_TEXAS_SURVEYOR, post: 404237, member: 8610 wrote: is this something you were looking for?

The O-tag thing would be perfect except that it is sized for 3/4" washers.

I really like the drill bit for the o-tags and the mark it plugs. I just don't like the monuments themselves.

Whenever I set a nail in concrete I drill the hole then set a cross-cut over the hole (with an angle grinder) and then I set the nail.

In asphalt I always dimple the bituminous surface before it is set, in hopes that a snow plow will make it over the top of it without tearing it out.

I NEVER set a nail in a seam, that is the worse. When I see it done, I want to rip them out. Worthless control and corners.

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I do use 2-1/2" nails or the 8" MAG spikes in asphalt though.

If I am in a rural area with a bituminous surface I will try to set a rebar, but here in the city it just won't happen. Homeowners would pitch a fit.

I tried to set a cross cut in my clients drive and she requested it not to be set in her drive.... ‰Û‰ªâ•ü

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Jason Graves, post: 404309, member: 9531 wrote: I really like the drill bit for the o-tags and the mark it plugs. I just don't like the monuments themselves.

Whenever I set a nail in concrete I drill the hole then set a cross-cut over the hole (with an angle grinder) and then I set the nail.

In asphalt I always dimple the bituminous surface before it is set, in hopes that a snow plow will make it over the top of it without tearing it out.

I NEVER set a nail in a seam, that is the worse. When I see it done, I want to rip them out. Worthless control and corners.

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I have never understood why you would set a control point in a sidewalk crack. Thanks for posting that, I feel better knowing there are others that don't like seem sets. We have no snow plows down here but I also have found that dimpled asphalt sets keep street maintenance from pulling the disks up.