As most of you know in several states surveyors are required to mark the rods that they set for boundary corners in a manner that is traceable to the surveyor that sets it, and this is commonly accomplished by the use of a "cap" that is set on the rod. An earlier thread got me to thinking about these caps and their durability, which in turn got me to wondering what everyone else uses.
Just as an informal poll: What kind of cap do you use for your boundary rods (manufacturer, type, material, size, color, ect)?
Currently, I am using blue plastic caps for 1/2" rebar (model PLM series) stamped with black lettering manufactured by Desert Engineering Group.
I can't say enough about this company! Top shelf customer service and a quality product.
Their MAXX Caps are great too...when a 1-14" cap just won't do 😉
I really don't like plastic caps. No matter how well made, they just look like a cheap hunk of plastic that you just set in the client's property!
For property corners, I use aluminum caps from Berntsen or Surv-Kap set flush. I think they look far better.
I do use Morasse caps sometimes for traverse points, but those I set below grade so the plastic is not visible.
We stopped using plastic caps when I started seeing them all chewed up. Lately we've been using aluminum caps from Berntsen. They make a very nice product for less than a few dollars per rod.
2-1/2" diameter aluminum cap pre-stamped CALIF DEPT OF FORESTRY around the rim. I stamp my LS number and year plus any other corner information necessary. These are set on 3/4"x30" long rebars.
We also set 2" diameter x 30" long aluminum monuments with 3-1/4" diameter caps pre-stamped CALIF DEPT OF FORESTRY AND FIRE PROTECTION around the rim. We can either dig a hole, bend the flanges out, and bury it or drive it in.
Hate the plastic plugs
I love the plastic plugs. They are so fast, and cheap. They are just awesome. Faster Cheaper. Faster Cheaper.
🙂
N
It doesn't matter how you mark it if it is the correct location. B-)
I currently use Berntsen Model QSH4200.
DDSM:beer:
Bathey Survey Markers had stainless steel caps for about half the price of the aluminum ones. I am currently using those, but they are thin, and I have broken a handful when the pounding got really tough. Also, they probably rust up and fall apart over time, but I imagine that would take a while.
I also sometimes use their steel tent stake type markers about 24" long that get a nail and disc attached to the top.
Plastic caps work OK in cooler climates and where they won't be exposed to much direct sunlight. They are a pretty poor choice in hot & sunny climates, or apparently where there are varmints that like to chew on plastic. Exposed to hot sun and other elements, plastic tends to decay and break off a rebar after as little as 3 years.
When I worked in the Midwest and in WA, most seemed to use plastic, and it seemed to work OK in most cases. Since moving to CA, I've come to the conclusion that metal is the only way to go. I prefer brass. Some use aluminum but it can deform in a forest fire or hot grass fire. The standard in the foothills just east of Sacramento seemed to be a steel cap threaded onto the end of an iron pipe up until 20 years ago or so. Some still use that.
I've also used a brass tag/washer fastened to the top of iron pipe with a nail and concrete. Some still wire a tag to their rebar or pipe. One guy in the area uses some kind of copper sleeve that bonds to the top inch or so of the outside of the pipe. Never seen that one before and wouldn't know where to get it.
I use Morasse caps, available from Berntsen. They are large plastic caps or collars (nothing like the small one in Bill's photo above, which are worthless). I started using them over 30 years ago, and at elevations around 7000' w/extreme UV, show little if any UV degredation. Unlike metal caps, there is no dis-similar metal corrosion, and the tops are never touched by a hammer and are never dinged up. They cannot be removed from the rebar without an extreme effort. Take a look on the Berntsen website.
2" aluminum cap on 5/8" rebar, 24" long.
if it's drilled in we try to set the same unless it requires a stem cap then it's a 1-1/2" aluminum magnetic cap those all get countersunk and grouted.
for sectional corners a 3" aluminum or brass cap on 30" aluminum rod which is the minimum, cap on pipe when it's required.
can't use plastic caps, they were made "illegal" and with new subdivision rules each cap needs stamping anyway, don't see how plastic will ever be able to do that.
MightyMoe, post: 361175, member: 700 wrote: 2" aluminum cap on 5/8" rebar, 24" long.
if it's drilled in we try to set the same unless it requires a stem cap then it's a 1-1/2" aluminum magnetic cap those all get countersunk and grouted.
for sectional corners a 3" aluminum or brass cap on 30" aluminum rod which is the minimum, cap on pipe when it's required.
can't use plastic caps, they were made "illegal" and with new subdivision rules each cap needs stamping anyway, don't see how plastic will ever be able to do that.
"...with new subdivision rules each cap needs stamping anyway..."
?? Does each cap have to be stamped with the Lot #'s or something??
Use aluminum and plastic (Bathey and Surv-Kap), starting to use aluminum a lot more after seeing what deer and other critters do to them....:pissed:
One county I work in requires aluminum caps only....
kkw_archer, post: 361112, member: 5453 wrote: Just as an informal poll: What kind of cap do you use for your boundary rods (manufacturer, type, material, size, color, ect)?.
I use the 2-inch Aluminum Cap for 5/8-inch rebar with plastic insert that Surv-Kap sells and have for more than twenty years. I order them with standard stamping and add a punch mark for the station mark, the pt. no., and any remark to the cap when setting it. Excellent durability for rural work. The cap in the photo below is in a suburban residential setting.
Kent McMillan, post: 361187, member: 3 wrote: I use the 2-inch Aluminum Cap for 5/8-inch rebar with plastic insert that Surv-Kap sells and have for more than twenty years. I order them with standard stamping and add a punch mark for the station mark, the pt. no., and any remark to the cap when setting it. Excellent durability for rural work. The cap in the photo below is in a suburban residential setting.
I like your tripod. I picked up a similar one a few months back and I use it all the time for stuff that's going to be setup for a while. It's far more stable than the bipod. (I had the bipod blow over and shatter the prism housing last year even though the feet were in the ground pretty good and facing away from the wind at the time it was setup).
Dan Patterson, post: 361188, member: 1179 wrote: I like your tripod. I picked up a similar one a few months back and I use it all the time for stuff that's going to be setup for a while. It's far more stable than the bipod. (I had the bipod blow over and shatter the prism housing last year even though the feet were in the ground pretty good and facing away from the wind at the time it was setup).
Now presenting (Ta-Da!)....
One of my all time favorite threads:
https://surveyorconnect.com/threads/traversing-with-bipods-and-prism-poles.206440/
We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.:-D
Jim in AZ, post: 361177, member: 249 wrote: "...with new subdivision rules each cap needs stamping anyway..."
?? Does each cap have to be stamped with the Lot #'s or something??
yes, lot numbers on all caps.
MightyMoe, post: 361196, member: 700 wrote: yes, lot numbers on all caps.
So how do your rules specify the stamping on a cap that is not at a "Lot corner", such as when half a Lot or the east 5' of a Lot is transferred?
MightyMoe, post: 361196, member: 700 wrote: yes, lot numbers on all caps.
Let's hope it is not the common corner of Lots 1056 and 1055 of Block 1056 of Phase 1056 AND Lots 6501 and 5501 of Block 6501 of Phase BR549....
Y'all gonna need a bigger cap!!
How about pre-stamping 'FOR LOT # SEE PLAT'
DDSM:beer::beer:
