I happened across around 70 10' long?ÿ 3/4" pipe, and bought them for property corners. Now, when you cut up these With chop saw, or pipe cutter, a little ridge is formed inside the pipe. After pounding them in, it's a bit hard to install a cap. Years ago, we'd pull the pipe out, and flip it over. Well, this in Arkansas. Lots of rocks. Hard to pound, hard to pull, turn over, and re pound it.?ÿ
So, if I had a little tapered piece of hard steel, with a collar, slightly larger than the pipe, that I could stick in the top, then while pounding it would remove the bur from the inside, while preparing it for a cap.?ÿ
Do you know of anybody who sells a device like this? Or do I go to the welder to get one made?
Thanks,
Nate
Try a high impact deep well socket
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Use a drill bit a little smaller then wobble it around a bit to shine up the inside.?ÿ Nice rainy day project.?ÿ Stick pipe in vise, then wobble away.
I'm pretty sure you can sue this on 3/4" stock.?ÿ It's a bit pricey, but I'm sure it won't ever break.
I'm pretty sure you can use this on 3/4" stock.?ÿ It's a bit pricey, but I'm sure it won't ever break.
Deburr the inside when you cut them.?ÿ?ÿ
Then use a pipe driver.
https://www.berntsen.com/Surveying/Survey-Markers/Rebar-Drivers
xx
Deburring may keep you from slicing your hand while handling or driving. There are tons of cheap tools for that. It won't help with the new mushroom from pounding.
It would be easy to have a driver made to fit with an inside and outside taper to swedge the top. Use a decent electric impact to drive the pipe. Grab a few deck shims from a construction site and you can make a cap for using the sledge. Alternatively use a sacrificial short extension when in 'manual' mode..
I'm sure that this is a good deal more than you would like to spend, but here it is:
I've never actually installed a pipe monument. Found plenty, many with plastic caps. I wonder if you could put the cap on (in?) and then drive the pipe??ÿ
Here is another option with a price more in a surveyors comfort zone:
They used to make drivers just for iron pipes. Now you have to buy iron rod drives that have an outside diameter less than 3/4".?ÿ One deceased surveyor here even had one that left his name and number die cast into the top rim of the pipe.?ÿ
SURV-KAP has a pipe shaper to clean and round out the inside?ÿof the pipe when you finish driving it.?ÿ
Have you got any old prism pole points or bi-pod points you could try?
I set a lot of 3/4" Pipes in rocky soil. I assume it's nominal pipe size which is 1.08 outside D.?ÿ
1. The bottom of the pipe should be pinched with a sledge so it drives a little easier and is harder to pull.
2. The bigger the hammer, the less mushrooming on the top. If I'm not to far from the truck, I use a 8 lb. If hiking it's a 3 lb.?ÿ?ÿ
3. A 3/4" hex head bolt dropped into the pipe also greatly reduces the mushrooming. And a 8" long bolt is much better than a 2" long bolt. Washers help the bolt last longer,?ÿ
4. SPECIAL FOR NATE: before driving, put the bolt in the pipe, lay the head of the bolt on a rock, and hit the pipe just under the bolt head, turn the pipe 90 deg., repeat , repeat, repeat. The burr from cutting is flattened.
5. I keep 6' lengths and a pipe cutter in the truck to make custom lengths.?ÿ?ÿ
I have a job coming up that will need 200-300 pipes set. I need a way to drive them with a hammer drill. I have a pretty good cordless SDS-plus drill and a stronger plug-in SDS-plus that I could use with a big battery pack I have. I'd buy a bigger drill if I thought it would help. Suggestions are welcomed.?ÿ
I once had a pipe driver, maybe from Bertsen, that broke right away.?ÿ
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I found this at a Flea Market; looks like it's just what you need.
Do they have Flea Markets in Arkansas? Maybe you'll get lucky...
You bet they do, Radar.?ÿ There's a Flea Market somewhere nearby one day of each week.?ÿ They have very short people employed to ride miniature horses as they drive the herd of fleas to the market.?ÿ They sort them by age and sex in advance of the auction.?ÿ Leroy Van Dyke can't hold a candle to those flea auctioneers.
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Check out the Lo Ink website. Seems to me they had drivers that are made to go over a re-bar or fit inside a open top pipe to help with damage.
Many thanks to those who replied.
It seems that nobody makes a 3/4 pipe driver. It's probably due to the fact that a hardened 3/4 bolt, with a large hex head would suffice, and therefore nobody has bothered to make this.
So.... I'm off to the hardware store.
Nate
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That bull pin would work a lot better if the worker got the skinny end into the hole on the other work piece....