Monte, post: 403545, member: 11913 wrote: When you say not much louder than a weedeater, which kind of weedeater do you mean? I been wanting a generator to carry on my horse trailer for power when I am in the middle of noplace, but it has to be one of the quieter ones. I was of the thoughts that the ones at harbor freight were a bit noisy to be sleeping by...
Monte,
If you want quite spend the money and get a Honda. I can say from experience at racing pits across the country that they are the best you can buy. I have been a events where the guy with his Harbor Freight genny was almost hung for the noise pollution and that is saying something when sitting on the pit wall with a car doing 150mph about 20 feet from you all day. Your really get what you pay for. The Honda runs all day and you barely notice it.
The product linked in post #31 is the digging bar I had. Useless.
+1 on the Honda Brand. Hands down the best small generator.
Not only are they reliable and quiet - the fuel efficiency is amazing.
I bought a Honda fire pump last summer and have had no issues.
Starts on the second pull every time.
I would buy an electric impact hammer - just so as to have an excuse to buy the Honda generator.
Honda has a couple of generator lines. The really quiet ones are more expensive than the general purpose ones. I didn't need a quiet one, so I went with the EG2500XL (model number from memory, so might not be quite right). It's not terribly noisy, and has been serving me well for 8 years or so.
Jim Frame, post: 403688, member: 10 wrote: Honda has a couple of generator lines. The really quiet ones are more expensive than the general purpose ones. I didn't need a quiet one, so I went with the EG2500XL (model number from memory, so might not be quite right). It's not terribly noisy, and has been serving me well for 8 years or so.
Honda seems to
Be the Rolls Royce of generators here.
For price and parts/service.
I can't believe that they are so far ahead of the compatible generators on the market
( I do own only Honda vehicles)
John Putnam, post: 403678, member: 1188 wrote: Monte,
If you want quite spend the money and get a Honda. I can say from experience at racing pits across the country that they are the best you can buy. I have been a events where the guy with his Harbor Freight genny was almost hung for the noise pollution and that is saying something when sitting on the pit wall with a car doing 150mph about 20 feet from you all day. Your really get what you pay for. The Honda runs all day and you barely notice it.
Second the Honda, we used one in the horse trailer and on the back of a slide in. You hardly hear it.
We have one of the Thunderbolts also. Great tool with the heads that can be changed. Ours has started to fall apart, we had to do some welding on it but to be honest, we have beat the crap out of it.
Nate The Surveyor, post: 403618, member: 291 wrote: ... Speed = less "in the road" exposure.
You can put all the signs out that you want, but all it takes is one "loco capasa" to mess you up. I'm wanting less time in the road.
This equals fast tools.
N
I like your thinking. Last week I began rehabbing an old iron pin that had a pronounced 'S' curve in it. Sweating, cussing, trying to preserve the original monument at the center of a rock road in a snow storm I look up to see a dodge caravan parked 15 feet from me. This happens more and more as my hearing gets worse, vehicles get quieter, and I run my things like my jackhammer which disguises the noise of approaching vehicles. God Bless 'em for not running over the fat guy.
Yup, in a perfect world there wouldn't be such a thing as a one-man crew, texting and driving, pin cushions, or light beer. But I don't see it changing anytime soon.
Steve
Update on things it looks like the Thunderbolts are all gone. So it's a Slammer tool with a chisel tip.
If I can get one ordered.
I thought an update would be in order on this job that needs (I thought) a good hole in the pavement.
I went back out there, Monday, (yesterday).Took my other metal detector. (shonestedt Ga-72), and swept the whole area. Then, set my rock hammer in the dirt shoulder, (for on-site comparison).
Turns out, there were ba-jillions of lodestones or magnetic rocks out there. All up and down the street.
So, I did not wind up opening the pavement.
Sometimes, an onsite comparison is valuable.
The lode stones, give of a signal, but it's different, than a genuine piece of steel. And not nearly as large of a signal zone. More like the signature a fence staple gives.
Nate
Nate The Surveyor, post: 403899, member: 291 wrote: I thought an update would be in order on this job that needs (I thought) a good hole in the pavement.
I went back out there, Monday, (yesterday).Took my other metal detector. (shonestedt Ga-72), and swept the whole area. Then, set my rock hammer in the dirt shoulder, (for on-site comparison).
Turns out, there were ba-jillions of lodestones or magnetic rocks out there. All up and down the street.
So, I did not wind up opening the pavement.
Sometimes, an onsite comparison is valuable.
The lode stones, give of a signal, but it's different, than a genuine piece of steel. And not nearly as large of a signal zone. More like the signature a fence staple gives.
Nate
Nate, does that mean you gave up on that corner?
If need the corner and want to perform a more diligent search, a different style detector can handle those types of hot rocks. I doubt anybody in your area uses a metal detector to prospect, but a detector designed to detect gold nuggets easily handles that type of stuff. As you said, the lode stone gives off a distinctly different signal. Lode stone reads 10 on my ID meter, where as iron reads around 20. It's pretty easy to either ignore stuff below 18 or simply tune it out.
I concluded that there was no iron marker there... Not quite like giving up. A more educated guess? I mean we dont routinely use a backhoe... But it would remove some guesswork.
I should add, I used the Shonestedt Pistol on day one. And, went back with a little better metal detector. It's a bit easier to discriminate with a 72.
N
Nate The Surveyor, post: 403547, member: 291 wrote: Thanks Monte,
If I could find the Thunderbolt I'd probably buy it I haven't ordered the slammer yet.
The thunderbolt looks better too, just because it's changable bits. Hayes has some bits left.
But, I cannot find a thunderbolt.
Nate
See page 45. Lewis & Lewis is in Ventura, California
https://www.lewis-lewis.net/media/pdf/P-SURVEY_PRICE_GUIDE.pdf
I have been in the store and have seen them in stock, including parts and attachments.
Mr. dhunter, thank you. I'll give them a try. The Slammer people are hiding. Cannot seem to locate one. (Maybe their head of sales, is in the slammer?)
N
RPlumb314, post: 403580, member: 6313 wrote: I tried a tool like this years ago. Uses standard jackhammer bits.
Unfortunately there was a problem. The impact of the heavy steel rod was transmitted back through the rod to my hand. After 45 minutes or so my hand was so numb I couldn't write. It took a day or two before it was back to normal. We returned the tool for a refund. I think it would have worked better if it had a spring-loaded grip on the hammer rod to absorb the shock, rather than a wimpy rubber sleeve.
I got one of those used from a fellow surveyor when he went out of business. Worked good until the top end of it broke off, popped up, and hit me on top of the head.
I just ordered the "Slammer". I got the one with a chisel head.
I called LL, and a number of others. No more thunderbolts.
It costs an hunnerd more, for another tip for it. I am tempted to get the wide blade, too, but really needed the chisel.
N
OK, I got the slammer. It works. I wish the LOWER portion were not quite so heavy. It tends to adsorb some of the weight of the slide hammer.
It works ok.
OK, but, now I have ANOTHER question.
HOW should I close the hole in the pavement?
I'd like to use a bag of cold pack asphalt... and a quart of tar...
Pack the cold pack asphalt, and pour a bit of tar around the edges, to seal it.
Or, a very stiff mix of concrete, with tar around the edges, to seal out the water.
Those are MY ideas so far. Any better ideas?
Here, I dug down 10", and found a 1/2" Pipe. I set a 12" Log Home Spike in the top of the pipe, and packed the dirt back in... I got in some trouble, somebody called the law on me. The county Judge sent the Cops... Cops were great. The Co. Roads Foreman was ok too. I did agree to go back, and "Fix it right". I did tell them my ideas. They said that this was a special area, that had some kind of SUPER hard asphalt, and me breaking the seal had upset somebody in the 'hood.
I understand... I do.
Anyway, it is a Township corner. And, it is getting a nice shiney SPC on it.
I would love to have a product that will allow me to open and SEAL a spot in the pavement, back better than original.
Cool mix Asphalt is more porous, than the original. It was VERY hard to dig through.
Concrete DOES shrink a bit, on hardening. The STIFFER the mix, then the harder, and less porous it is, when hardened, if it is mixed properly.
Looking for ideas.
Thank you,
Nate
i have NO idea, but thought maybe looking into what guys who do upkeep on runways might use.
So far, this looks pretty good.
https://www.quikrete.com/athome/video-asphalt-repairs.asp
But, I'd like a little bit of tar in a bottle, to SEAL the edges.
N
Nate you are going to have to put in something that will bond to the existing waterproof layer and be hard enough for heavy traffic.
I would call that asphalt-concrete that is a hot mix and steamrolled for a smooth surface.
They come back with a tar layer that will hold the washed gravel in place.
We fill the hole with original material and if more is needed we borrow it from the edges of the roadway and pack with a sledge hammer and then use the original top surface materials and get extra along the edge of the roadway or at turnouts and pound them back in place with a sledge hammer.
Sometimes we are lucky and get a bucket full from a stockpile down the road.
