Can you drive hub and tack in 95% compacted fill? I haven't tried but it doesn't sound likely. I'm going to be staking a couple hundred points in the compacted fill. What's the best way to mark the points if not hub and tack? How do you mark cuts and fills if you can get a lath in the ground? Paint?
60d Spike w/stake chaser (ie/feathers). You can bullprick a hole for the lath, but painting the ground is also viable, if the use is short term.
Can you drive hub and tack in 95% compacted fill? I haven't tried but it doesn't sound likely. I'm going to be staking a couple hundred points in the compacted fill. What's the best way to mark the points if not hub and tack? How do you mark cuts and fills if you can get a lath in the ground? Paint?
Pound a lath in the ground, drop a 6 inch piece of lath in front of it and take a shot on it.?ÿ Use the 6 inch as a straight edge to draw a line on your staked lath, add crows feet, and mark your cut or fill to the line.
As far as percent compaction I don't think that matters nearly as much as the soil type.?ÿ I'd be surprised if you had any problems with hubs.
60d Spike w/stake chaser (ie/feathers). You can bullprick a hole for the lath, but painting the ground is also viable, if the use is short term.
That's how I did it except I used 3/8" x 8" spikes.?ÿ Tied flagging on them to make them more visible.?ÿ I used to buy them in 50 lb boxes.
I'm too old for much of that anymore!
In my career I've pounded hundreds of thousands of "blue top" hubs in miles and miles of subgrade that met or exceeded 95% of its proctor density.?ÿ A specific soil or rock material, either in situ or placed as borrow, that has been compacted to?ÿa calculated?ÿoptimum moisture content/ density by no means is indicated to be impervious.?ÿ I am not saying that properly compacted subgrade readily accepts hubs being driven into it, just that it is/ was a common practice in these parts prior to the arrival of grading equipment with machine control.
As a matter of experience I would note the moisture content of any subgrade material is more of an indication of how difficult it might be to penetrate.?ÿ I've seen stabilized or modified subgrade that failed meeting its "95%" density that was difficult to drive a nail into because of low moisture content.?ÿ On the other had I've seen materials that tested well over its density threshold, but were relatively easy to get a hub in because of the moisture held by the material.
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I 2nd the comment about soil/material type.?ÿ
I setout 400 metres new kerb last week. <br/>The air was so hot the bitumen puddled under my feet. The ground was so hard and being limestone country I'm sure it was just under the surface. <br/>We took all day driving 1/2" reo in. <br/>Level on top, measure down and wrap electrical tape round at desired level. Wrote depth below top of rod to finished surface on the edge of bitumen. <br/>There was no way a wooden anything would have made it through that stuff. Even the reo struggled in places.
Skip the hubs, too much work. 3/8x8 in pole barn spike would work great, just don't hit them too hard as they can bend, many light hits is better than a big hit. write grades on 1x2, depending on soil they can go in easy or need a bull prick.
On the hardest materials, like concrete paving hubs in very hard base course my favorite has always been 40d ring shanks, then buy the white old lawn chair webbing in rolls at hardware store, cut a small piece and drive nail through. Write grades on webbing with marker. These nails will bend easier than spikes, but can work with finesse, when you just can't get the 40p to drive in, substitute a spike.
Skip the hubs, too much work. 3/8x8 in pole barn spike would work great, just don't hit them too hard as they can bend, many light hits is better than a big hit. write grades on 1x2, depending on soil they can go in easy or need a bull prick.
On the hardest materials, like concrete paving hubs in very hard base course my favorite has always been 40d ring shanks, then buy the white old lawn chair webbing in rolls at hardware store, cut a small piece and drive nail through. Write grades on webbing with marker. These nails will bend easier than spikes, but can work with finesse, when you just can't get the 40p to drive in, substitute a spike.
Never heard of the webbing idea, sounds like a good one.
For work on compacted rock I like a cotton gin spike.?ÿ
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/products.php?mi=72941
They cost about a dollar a piece which can freak some people out, but trying to use wood will cost more than a dollar in labor. When I was using them for setting pin-line for paving work I had the paving crew collect them for reuse after paving.
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You asked about hub and tack so I assume you have to leave an accurate point on it. ?ÿIf a 6" hub won't go, I use old railroad spikes. ?ÿDrive it in, paint it lightly, then put a punch mark in it. Usually can stick a wire flag in beside it with the cut/fill written on that. If the flag won't go, leave the spike up enough you can wrap the flag around it. ?ÿOr write on a piece of flagging and tie around it. ?ÿ
Better take a few of everything until you find out what works. I've staked jobs where one spot might take a spike and another spot might have to drive a 36" ?ÿlathe to grade. Especially on the edge of a fill. We keep 6" up to 12" long hubs around if having to drive to grade for bluetops. ?ÿAlso a good bull pin so if grade is hard and 8" low, can still get a 12" in there to grade.?ÿ
Buy the pine hubs with all the knots in them ?ÿ/sarcasm
It has been tough here. Some jobs just can't?ÿpound hubs in the ground, at least for a few months.
North?ÿof me there is several feet of snow.?ÿ On a construction just south of me there is very little snow, but nearly 36" of frost in the ground. That means the ground is frozen solid the entire depth. It's like?ÿchipping thru concrete.
7? x 3/8? landscape spikes with a wire pin flag for grade. If you need to set hubs sds max drill with 1 1/4 bit and a generator. We did miles of red tops with that drill and generator on a garden cart. This was in asphalt millings that sat 5 months with ??local? traffic through the summer.
Can you? Usually yes, but not always, sometimes it's the best material to use in compacted fill, sometimes it's not, for blue tops I will usually use 60 penny nails driven through a rooster tail when the wooden ones are being smashed. For curb and gutter stakes, light pole stakes, ect I will usually try and fight the wood/tack into the ground.