Hi guys
I'm fairly new to surveying and could do with some advice please. I've been using a Trimble S7, MT1000 prism and Trimble Access TSC3 controller.
I'd like to know the best way to survey a wall when you cannot use reflector-less and you can't get the point of the prism pole to the base of the wall. Currently when I survey walls I use my boot as an offset which at its widest point is 110mm. So I just put the pole to the side of my boot and shoot several points along the wall. This creates a surveyed line 110mm parrallel to the wall.?ÿ When I get to CAD I use the offset command to position the wall line 110mm back to where it should be.
This method works okay but I can't help think there's a better way. I have to make a note for myself to remember which walls are offset and which aren't. I'm aware that there are left, right, forward, backwards offsets in Trimble Access but I can't see how they can help in the above scenario.
What are your tips?
Best regards, Andrew
?ÿ
I would go to a home improvement store and buy some sticky back reflective tape and put it on the building. I have used it many times to locate building lines and corners. You have to change the prism constant on your gun to 0 mm offset on your instrument though.?ÿ
These come in a variety of sizes
?ÿ
Currently when I survey walls I use my boot as an offset which at its widest point is 110mm. So I just put the pole to the side of my boot and shoot several points along the wall. This creates a surveyed line 110mm parrallel to the wall.?ÿ When I get to CAD I use the offset command to position the wall line 110mm back to where it should be.
This method works okay but I can't help think there's a better way. I have to make a note for myself to remember which walls are offset and which aren't. I'm aware that there are left, right, forward, backwards offsets in Trimble Access but I can't see how they can help in the above scenario.
What are your tips?
Best regards, Andrew
?ÿ
Cheers guys but I was after finding out a method for surveying garden walls, retaining walls, steps and anything else when you can't get your detail pole right up against the thing your surveying.
All data collectors I have used have a variety of offset shot routines built in. Shoot the distance to the rod, turn to the actual corner for the angle, combine the data to get a shot direct to the corner. Or apply a distance offset, left/right/forward/back to the shot.?ÿ So that when the data reaches the office no further adjustments to the shot data are needed.?ÿ ?ÿ
I usually use a remote shot routine to locate objects than can not be reached or seen or set on.
Some Data collection software have routines for this, such as Carlson and Microstation PowerSurvey. You can create template series of shots, then measure?ÿa single point thereafter which carries the templet.
?ÿ
What software are you using?
I'd code the relevant points you offset. No offset = wall, offset = Wall 110, (wall "offset distance")
Joining the points in a 3D polyline allows you to then do the Cad offset, even several times for true toe wall, top of wall, other top of wall, other side of wall. If ?ÿneeded.
As said there's a routine to add an offset in most decent data recorder software. That can be tedious but effective.?ÿ
I like my method as in many cases hard against walls the ground is uneven, and to get a proper DTM you need to take a natural surface point away from edge anyway.?ÿ
Hi guys
I use LSS and it does have an offset function for stringing points. I don't like it though as it leaves two parallel lines on the drawing (one has to be deleted) which gives you quite a bit of tidying up to do post survey. I was looking for simple foolproof method to use in the field. Richard and Mark - many thanks I'll try your suggestions.
Cheers, Andrew
Use the prism housing as an offset. Lean the prism until it touches the wall/building and use an offset out/left or right. If you are not exactly at right angles to the wall increase offset a hundredth or two or three as needed. Most of the time being within a few hundredths is good. If the rod isn't plumb it isn't a worry either. It has to lean pretty far to change the elevation of the point shot.?ÿ
If more accuracy is needed use reflectorless or stickers or tape the offset.?ÿ
You can't just shoot it reflectorless? And with an S7 you should also be able to scan it.
Cheers guys but I was after finding out a method for surveying garden walls, retaining walls, steps and anything else when you can't get your detail pole right up against the thing your surveying.
I will say this on these kinds of things you are overthinking it, get the pole as close as you can and take the shot. Also a loose peanut prism with?ÿ a zero offset is a life saver, just put the point on the back against the wall and shoot it direct. While surveying is a profession that relies on precision you will learn that with some things you don't necessarily need to be as precise, a couple of hundreths error on a garden wall in the middle of a property is not going to make a difference.
?ÿ
Cheers guys but I was after finding out a method for surveying garden walls, retaining walls, steps and anything else when you can't get your detail pole right up against the thing your surveying.
I will say this on these kinds of things you are overthinking it, get the pole as close as you can and take the shot. Also a loose peanut prism with?ÿ a zero offset is a life saver, just put the point on the back against the wall and shoot it direct. While surveying is a profession that relies on precision you will learn that with some things you don't necessarily need to be as precise, a couple of hundreths error on a garden wall in the middle of a property is not going to make a difference.
?ÿ
AMEN!!