GOing from 2wd, to 4wd may help some, but prob not enough. We added 1 leaf to our 4wd 1/2 ton chev. Just go to a junk yard and get the long leaf from each side, and have a shop put it in with longer U bolts. It rides level now, but of course it isn't as easy to get into teh side windows as before. Being short sucks sometimes.
[USER=197]@Brad Ott[/USER]
Trucks are designed for a maximum load rating.
They do not necessarily keep from bottoming out the springs with that weight.
Most vehicles that carry loads constantly need larger springs and towbars installed or to order the towing and off road packages.
Heavier loaded gas shocks can help the load and ride also.
A higher rated set of coil springs or a few overload leafs are an easy fix.
The taller stack of leaf springs were one of the main difference between a regular Chevy and a Heavy Chevy Truck.
I've had 8 to 10 ply All Terrain 80series tires with 35lbs of air for about 30yrs because each tire will handle close to 2,400 lbs of load with maximum air pressure of 60lbs air pressure.
Basically they are tires for dual wheel setups that stand up and will not squat and touch the other tire.
I like the tallest tire that will fit on my vehicle without rubbing the frame when in full turn position.
In my 4wd I have eased thru places that wide lug tires would not go because I had more axle clearance.
They remind me of the tires that came on Willis Army Jeeps in the 40s except they come with modern thread patterns.
They also last 45K+ miles on my 89 Ford and 01 Prerunner.
You might want buy tires that has more plys and can handle heavier loads such as a LT type.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55
Every survey truck I have ever been associated with that wasn't built on a 2500 or better chassis was overloaded, no amount of extra springs, air bags, air shocks, etc. is going to fix the fact that the chassis on light duty pickups, SUV's, etc. just isn't built heavy enough.
SHG
Shelby H. Griggs PLS, post: 406628, member: 335 wrote: Every survey truck I have ever been associated with that wasn't built on a 2500 or better chassis was overloaded, no amount of extra springs, air bags, air shocks, etc. is going to fix the fact that the chassis on light duty pickups, SUV's, etc. just isn't built heavy enough.
SHG
Crap. So 2500, or 250 then, huh?
It's like I tell my wife, it is not really money($) it is just numbers on paper...
My truck of the last 16+ years (280K miles) is in my profile photo, I won't post a bunch of photos here, because it doesn't fit the definition of the OP requirements. I will say it has been a good investment, monthly cost over 16 years has been about $40/month for the bed investment, the longer I run it, the cheaper it becomes. Almost no repairs or modifications needed in that time frame, easy to work out of and everything is safe and secure. I consider a good work truck to be as important as the gear it hauls!
SHG
Brad Ott, post: 406629, member: 197 wrote: Crap. So 2500, or 250 then, huh?
It's like I tell my wife, it is not really money($) it is just numbers on paper...
Or 3500/350. I would probably go that route if I did it again, you can get those in a single rear wheel (SRW). GM has had SRW 3500 trucks since late 70's, they outlasted the 1500's by far at a company I worked at back then with a mixed fleet. I believe all the big 3 now offer 3500 SRW trucks, I know the RAM's can be had in a chassis cab with straight frame rails, ideal platform for building a ground up truck. Unfortunately all the new trucks are crazy expensive, $65-85K before you start adding stuff, going to be running mine a bit longer!
SHG
Brad Ott, post: 406461, member: 197 wrote: Dude.
Excellent.
Keep us posted as time goes on.
Show us photos with your survey gear.
Here's a pic of the Decked box in my truck. Got it in august, still working on the best way to arrange things. The milk cartons are for hubs and rr spikes. I need to be able to yank them out if I need the whole bed for something so this works for now. Thought about making a box that would look better for them to sit in. The drawer with the tripod also has prism rod and level rod. The drawers only come out this far, I've got rebar and wire flags in the front of the other one. And you can see there was already a paint can explosion. I started keeping paint in the 2 ammo cans in the back corners. There are 2 more in the front that are covered up right now. The drawers are easy to pull out, but will glide back in if you park headed downhill. I don't carry a lot of extra stuff, just what I need. I just put the power step running boards on it. Found out with extra clothes on for cold weather this truck is a little bit tall to get in, and I'm 6'. They fold up out of sight when you shut the door.
Brad Ott, post: 406629, member: 197 wrote: Crap. So 2500, or 250 then, huh?
The other option is to go through what all you are carrying in your truck and really pare it down.
A company I was with in 2009 bought an F250 and had a service body put on it, something like Shelby's truck. It is one of those pictured in Jimmy Cleveland's collection. Total cost was about $40k.
I traded in the GMC Sierra 2500 for a Ford E350 van. Next step is to build a combination equipment box - bed - desk with charging station - kitchenette.
I have been upfitting my new rig this past week.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kp6edmt161qvqwz/AADSMHRNwjq8l_zmMgNT3c8aa?dl=0
Adam, post: 407078, member: 8900 wrote: I have been upfitting my new rig this past week.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kp6edmt161qvqwz/AADSMHRNwjq8l_zmMgNT3c8aa?dl=0
That should be HD enough 🙂
Has anyone made a box for the back seat in an extended cab truck? I'm considering that right now but I'm not sure there is enough room. I was hoping to make a box that holds 3 sets of legs with a 4th compartment for rods, ect. I don't want to put a tonneau cover on because I still use the box to haul stuff and I can't afford any of the sliding drawer type setups that go in the bed.
Gregg
Brad Ott, post: 406629, member: 197 wrote: Crap. So 2500, or 250 then, huh?
It's like I tell my wife, it is not really money($) it is just numbers on paper...
No need to move to a 3/4 ton just because your truck is squatting. I'm sure you are not overloaded...maybe you do need some 10 ply tires....I'd suggest buying an airbag system to level the truck out. They ride nice and are easy to install yourself. You will probably have $300 invested if you don't go with on-board air compressor.
You won;t need to run 70-80 PSI!! That's asking for a flat tire and would ride very rough.
Just get some better truck tires that are made for carrying heavy loads.
GMPLS, post: 415339, member: 8404 wrote: Has anyone made a box for the back seat in an extended cab truck? I'm considering that right now but I'm not sure there is enough room. I was hoping to make a box that holds 3 sets of legs with a 4th compartment for rods, ect. I don't want to put a tonneau cover on because I still use the box to haul stuff and I can't afford any of the sliding drawer type setups that go in the bed.
Gregg
I think Silver Shield makes a "backseat" box.
T.W.
Tom Wilson, post: 415348, member: 247 wrote: I think Silver Shield makes a "backseat" box.
T.W.
The silver shield model looks pretty good but I'm sure it's out of my price range. I'm going to try to make one but I'm concerned about getting the legs out of the box. I have a Tundra double cab and the doors don't really open that far.
Gregg
GMPLS, post: 415929, member: 8404 wrote: The silver shield model looks pretty good but I'm sure it's out of my price range. I'm going to try to make one but I'm concerned about getting the legs out of the box. I have a Tundra double cab and the doors don't really open that far.
Gregg
I had taken the backseat out of the 2011 2500 extended cab I had previously and made a plywood box that sat up off the floor. On that one the back doors opened back all the way so it was easy to get stuff in and out. I kept all the expensive stuff there, including the prism/gps rod that would just fit crossways under the plywood box, and the legs and other rods in bed side boxes. The new GMC/Chev don't come with those doors any more. Didn't see any way the new extended cab would work without those doors, so I got the crew cab this time. Didn't have to take the seat out, can leave the passenger side rear seat folded down if I need to carry a couple extra people, or can yank the equipment I have in there out in about a minute and have the full backseat. Don't carry extra people often, but it's handy if needed. Everything else is in the Decked box.
Great thread - we've got a new rig on order and will be going through lining out how I'd like it to be setup.
Time to refill the coffee cup - going to hit up that Dropbox link and take some notes for sure.
eddycreek, post: 415939, member: 501 wrote: I had taken the backseat out of the 2011 2500 extended cab I had previously and made a plywood box that sat up off the floor. On that one the back doors opened back all the way so it was easy to get stuff in and out. I kept all the expensive stuff there, including the prism/gps rod that would just fit crossways under the plywood box, and the legs and other rods in bed side boxes. The new GMC/Chev don't come with those doors any more. Didn't see any way the new extended cab would work without those doors, so I got the crew cab this time. Didn't have to take the seat out, can leave the passenger side rear seat folded down if I need to carry a couple extra people, or can yank the equipment I have in there out in about a minute and have the full backseat. Don't carry extra people often, but it's handy if needed. Everything else is in the Decked box.
Yeah, my friend has a 2007 Chevy half ton with those doors. They definitely make a huge difference. I'm going to build a box anyway and hope for the best. It'll still be better than leaving all those legs bouncing around back there. I've also thought about making the 2 compartments closer the the front of the truck a little wider so I can put the legs in at an angle to better clear the door.
I still have some measuring to do but I'm hoping to be able to keep the small flip up seat on the passenger side for the reasons you stated. Plus it would be a good spot to put the gun box.
Gregg
There are some great ideas here and I've been thinking about building a new box soon. I'd like to make a solution that combines the 2 youtube clips I've linked to.
What do y'all think?
Rolling Truck-Bed Toolbox
[MEDIA=youtube]jd1Sx_tldHs[/MEDIA]
Unique Contractor Truck storage Solutions
[MEDIA=youtube]fZFMf6qxvtI[/MEDIA]
