reflectorless shors & Chrome

My observation is that reflectorless instruments will not shoot to such surfaces at all because of the character of the reflectivity. Perhaps you could get an instrument to measure if the instrument was very nearly perpendicular to the surface.

I carry a roll of masking tape with me for most surfaces. Very useful and shoots perfectly.

Just throw a snowball at the chrome and shoot it.

Actually, My reflectorless doesn't like to shoot wet, black surfaces.

Here is a photo of a whole lot of stainless steel wine tanks I tried to shot once using reflectorless, my S6 picked up the shots just fine, but back in the office, the shots plotted in unrealistic positions, could not get any arcs to fit through any of the points, so had to go back and shot them with a prism.

I rekon only the dead on perpendicular shots to the tanks were any good, any shot at any sort of acute angle to the circular tanks just reflected off . This Vergelegen winery out Somerset West way, cape Town.

reflectorless shots & Chrome

Time to start carrying some not to sticky white tape or dots. Thanks for the help

reflectorless shots & Chrome

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Roll-Silver-Reflective-Tape-2-in-X-30-ft-/220691496961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33623d0001

Get a roll of this stuff and cut it up into ½” squares and carry them in your pocket in an old pill bottle and they will prove invaluable. Not only for surfaces that are not reflectorless friendly but for building corners that are in difficult positions (opposite face with back ground interference). I also use these reflectors for control points and offsets to monuments. The precision is very good … in fact if I’m off more than 0.01’ (x,y,z) I know something’s amiss.

reflectorless shots & Chrome

Mike,

When you aim to this tape, are you manually sighting to the center or using an auto pointing routine?

Al

reflectorless shots & Chrome

If you're going to stick a piece of tape on every point you need to shoot and then go back to the gun to shoot them, wouldn't it be faster to just shoot them with a prism robotically? It'd save having to measure up and record all the individual tape HRs.

reflectorless shots

I manually locate them using the cross hairs to sight on the corners of the reflective tape which is applied with point of the "diamond" in the up position.

BTW, make sure the instrument is adjusted so that the cross hairs and the laser are pointed at the same location!