Another professionally recelled total station battery.
I take it that this is a "one-shot" recell - you have to recell every time the batteries run down.
If you have a charger, why not just spend a few extra bucks and get ni-cads of nimh cells and get a lot more mileage between recelling?
Tyler
> I take it that this is a "one-shot" recell - you have to recell every time the batteries run down.
>
> If you have a charger, why not just spend a few extra bucks and get ni-cads of nimh cells and get a lot more mileage between recelling?
Those are rechargable Ni-MH batteries. They will recharge using the standard Nikon Q-75 U Charger.
I did mix two different brands of batteries which is probably a no-no.
Tyler
Why not use a hot glue gun to hold the batteries together insted of tape?
Tyler
> Why not use a hot glue gun to hold the batteries together insted of tape?
I guess I don't have a glue gun. After testing, I just wrapped a bunch more electrical tape around it and stuffed it back in the case.
Tyler
I saw the Duracells and thought they were alkaline.
It's best to buy all the same cells and have the company put solder tabs on them if they don't come that way. Soldering directly to nicads (and maybe nimh cells) can melt the plastic membrane inside which keeps them from drying out. Batteries Plus will put tabs on for you as will Batteries America and other suppliers. If you have a particular battery arrangement as I do with my Topcon handle batteries, they'll even make up the cell combinations you need and put them in shrink-wrap. Mine takes 2 in-line and 2 sets of 2 side-by-side.
Tyler
> I saw the Duracells and thought they were alkaline.
>
> It's best to buy all the same cells and have the company put solder tabs on them if they don't come that way. Soldering directly to nicads (and maybe nimh cells) can melt the plastic membrane inside which keeps them from drying out. Batteries Plus will put tabs on for you as will Batteries America and other suppliers. If you have a particular battery arrangement as I do with my Topcon handle batteries, they'll even make up the cell combinations you need and put them in shrink-wrap. Mine takes 2 in-line and 2 sets of 2 side-by-side.
looked into getting NiMh batteries with solder tabs but they weren't available with more than 1500 mA-hr capacity. I used the solder tabs in AA batteries in the past and they are certainly easier, but I wanted the 2600 mA-Hr batteries so I was stuck with using the regular non-solder tab varieties. I just roughen up the ends of the batteries with a file and score them several times with a sharp box cutter and the solder seems to stick well. I have never had a problem doing it this way since the old Sokkisha/leitz gun I ran in the 90's. This is probably the 12th battery pack I have done this way and it costs around $15.
Plus, the turn-around time is fast recelling them yourself. The boss'es EDM battery died in the middle of a big job and I had him up and running again in 30 minutes with some walmart duracells
Tyler
Good way to do it Perry, have soldered tabs on batteries. I used an iron that would put a lot of heat on the tabs quickly, think that a fast short heat will not migrate high temperatures that way, the heat that does migrate seems to be cooled and does no damage.
jud
Tyler
> Good way to do it Perry, have soldered tabs on batteries. I used an iron that would put a lot of heat on the tabs quickly, think that a fast short heat will not migrate high temperatures that way, the heat that does migrate seems to be cooled and does no damage.
> jud
Yep, I cranked to old radio shack soldering station up on full bore.