Property Corner Markers

1" - 2" diameter white or gray PVC with an end cap on the top might be appropriate.

Ben Purvis, post: 378466, member: 363 wrote: A builder has requested permanent above ground markers for the property corners that are buried and I'm looking for some suggestions as to what others are using. He suggested the T Posts for wire fencing but that would get extremely unappealing in a neighborhood very quickly which I pointed out to him. I personally don't like the idea for a number of reasons the least of which is that I believe it will create more problems than it will solve.

Look at the Carsonite fiberglass posts. The brown ones blend in (at least here in NY), but are still visible.

J. Penry, post: 378469, member: 321 wrote: 1" - 2" diameter white or gray PVC with an end cap on the top might be appropriate.

Sorry, forgot to mention he wants them made of steel.

Check out electric fence posts

these fiberglass are my favorites

How about you set a 1' offset and he sets a fence post in concrete?

(No, we don't need to rehash THAT, for a discussion of fence posts as corners, please search past posts.)

Ben Purvis, post: 378466, member: 363 wrote: A builder has requested permanent above ground markers for the property corners that are buried and I'm looking for some suggestions as to what others are using. He suggested the T Posts for wire fencing but that would get extremely unappealing in a neighborhood very quickly which I pointed out to him. I personally don't like the idea for a number of reasons the least of which is that I believe it will create more problems than it will solve.

Edit....I forgot to mention that he wants them to be steel so mowers don't destroy them. I had suggested PVC to no avail.

How about you set a 1' offset and he sets a fence post in concrete?

(No, we don't need to rehash THAT, for a discussion of fence posts as corners, please search past posts.)

I worked for a developer once that had us place 24" pieces of 1/2" thin wall EMT (electrical conduit) directly adjacent to the pins. He supplied the conduit and we were happy to charge him extra time to pound them in about 6". I believe he eventually painted them with flo-paint (someone did, and it wasn't us).

BTW, some of them stayed a number of years after the property got built up. I saw one fella pull one up, mow the grass and then wiggle it back down in the hole.

First you round up a collection of well used traffic cones and a few railroad spikes. Drive several bars in the ground plus several more sticking up a foot or so that will fit nicely within the traffic cone. The set the cone over all the bars and secure it to the ground with two or more railroad spikes through the base. The pour the cone full of quickcrete. Wait a couple days. Remove the cone and railroad spikes. Purtiest bollard you'll ever see.

https://www.google.com/search?q=used+grader+blades+for+sale&client=tablet-android-att-us&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiO5aH-ibrNAhUGYyYKHbroBZ0Q_AUICCgC&biw=962&bih=601#imgrc=SE2b9kdw4rh3cM%3A
GRADER BLADES...lot's of holes to tie flagging, line string, and ID Washers.

https://www.google.com/search?q=railroad+iron+ends&client=tablet-android-att-us&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjuteSBi7rNAhVJ4GMKHWi6B7AQ_AUICCgC&biw=962&bih=601#tbm=isch&q=railroad+iron+scrap&imgrc=NOx-7RPUrzL35M%3A
RAILROAD ENDS...should outlast a weed eater...

DDSM

I would request that the builder provide "hold harmless insurance" for each set above ground steel marker. In urban areas markers are not set above grade due to liability issues.

Paul in PA

Those railroad ends linked above are what I'd suggest. F'n heavy though so eat your Wheaties and lift with yer legs.

Are they near a sidewalk? Possibly set offsets in the sidewalk?

Any idea why the request?
What purpose do they expect it to fulfil?
You mention mowing.
What's wrong with neat concrete blocks embedded with fancy custom plates special to that subdivision, residential development.
I gather from my stay in Hawaii you take neighbourhoods seriously and each has an individual but unmistakable stamp of commoninity about them.

But for anything posted above the subsurface mark how do you treat that in terms of boundary marker?
Dig up the above ground mark and look for what's below?
Which made me think of the at surface mark accurately placed.
Would other surveyors accept that or still dig it up and look for a subsurface mark?

I suggest a chain link fence "line post", driven with a post pounder as necessary and cut off to the height you want. Available at your local big box. Also available are caps that will give it something of finished look.

Richard, post: 378532, member: 833 wrote: But for anything posted above the subsurface mark how do you treat that in terms of boundary marker?

You don't. They have no standing as boundary markers. Here in Oregon it is common to set a 2x2 "white" ( 18" total length, about 12" above ground, painted white) next to the freshly set boundary iron in lieu of a lath, especially in new subdivisions.

In British Columbia it is required that a triangular cedar "guard post" be set adjacent to the iron rod boundary marker. These too are painted white. When you find a guard post and you expect to find the pin next to it. Lots of times you find a pin whose guard post has succumbed to time or some other mayhem, it has no effect. But if you find a guard post and do not find a pin you haven't really found anything.

I know its not steel or above ground, but my dad would put a flag stone over the lot corner. Easy to see when mowing and easy to move to observe the corner. You could plant an oak tree next to it, that would work. I find that "builders" are so short sighted when it comes to these type of things.

We have a couple older subdivisions here where iron pipes were set as guard posts / markers for the property corners; it turned out to be a horrible idea, as after a while the original corners became hard to find and the iron pipes became the accepted corners. The plat stated that a hub and tack was set, but it seems that very few surveyors read that plat note, or made an attempt to search for the original points when the iron pipe was plain as day.

If you can talk them out of iron above ground, my preference would be iron rods well below the surface with gray PVC capped pipe slipped over the rod and protruding above the surface.

Nearly 30 years ago an old boy was more than happy to show me where the corners of his lot were. He had placed a used disk blade over each bar when the surveyor laid then out about thirty years earlier than my arrival.

The disc blades were about 18 inches in diameter. By design they are concave (about three inches worth in this case). The hole where the axle shaft goes through the center of the blade was bigger than the bar set so these were simply perfect. Over time silt and other matter had built up over each blade leaving only the area near the bar/hole exposed above the grass. Talk about something that will make the Schoenstedt sing!!!!!!!!!!!