Monuments in Paved Driveways (New Subdivision)

We had to do this once, and we set monument with monument boxes. Fortunately for us, we set the monuments before the driveways were paved. Then we just told the paving contractor to set the box over the monument flush with the driveway.

Thank You all for options, they are leaning toward an offset along the row line with a plat filed in the engineers office, has any one done this?

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> I use these for setting in pavement. They are only 4.5" long though.
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If the "CT" in the original posters name stands for Connecticut, those babies in a driveway and snow shovels don't look like a good match.

I concur with Steve's solution. I've used a lot of those markers. They seem to be durable and, since they sit flush, they're not susceptible to snow plows and such. Some we set in the traveled portion of Interstate highways are still there after 20 years.

We had a problem with the bit wearing out pretty fast, so we used an appropriately sized carbide bit from the hardware store to drill the small diameter hole, then finished the counterbore with the expensive bit.

Use monument boxes on C/L at all intersections, PC's and PT's and use a brass cap on a 30" pipe for the monument. That is where the monuments belong anyway, The property corners are the only monuments that should be on the ROW line. Yep property lines will have PC's and PT's and should already be monumented, if not, drill a hole, fill it with lead and drive a mag nail into it, water will not penetrate, then freeze and pop the marker out or break the concrete.
jud

I really can't see the point in setting offsets for PC's and PT's. I think you would find that a Hilti cordless drill like this one

will chew through the pavement, or even concrete. Then you can set a monument like this

It's recessed for snow and you can stamp PC or PT on it to let everyone know it isn't a lot corner.

I would estimate that maybe 5% of monuments we set get set with the help of a drill. It really isn't that bad. Just drill a hole big enough for the stem or rebar the cap sits on; then use the core drill (or the type in the pic. above) to widen the top of the hole and set the cap. I think you will find it less hassle than offsets would end up being.

In California, we used to set brass nails with tags in lead on top of curb at the extension of the property line. If the concrete was already set, we'd drill a hole and use a carpenter's hammer to "chisel" out an impression around the hole so that the nail and tag would be set below the top of the concrete.

Better yet, we'd try to coordinate our timing with the pouring of the curb. If you follow those guys around shortly after they pour the curb, you can literally push the nail and tag into the concrete just enough to get it slightly below the top surface. The concrete overlaps the tag just enough to hold it in place without covering the text. Another good trick was to get slightly longer nails and bend them at a 90° angle near the bottom prior to setting them. Of course, the chain(wo)men would prepare these first thing in the morning while waiting for the chief.

The time spent occasionally waiting for the concrete guys to get ahead of you far outweighs the tremendous amount of time and effort it takes to drag around all the necessary equipment to drill and fill the holes. We found that (usually) the time spent moving from one control point to another was enough to give them some lead time.

🙂

> We had a problem with the bit wearing out pretty fast, so we used an appropriately sized carbide bit from the hardware store to drill the small diameter hole, then finished the counterbore with the expensive bit.

Ditto here. The countersink bore can also be accomplished with a sharp cold chisel, easily in green concrete.

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>some attorney on some plat did though!

It's not the monument, its the name you use for it. Try "cotton gin spindle" instead.

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Yeah, we called 'em gin spikes. Heck, I didn't know there was another name for them until today.

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If its asphalt why not just drive a iron rod through it? Once you bust through the top 2 inches its all the same as a gravel road, at worst.

Pretty standard in San Diego County back in the 90's was to set a lead and disk on a 7' offset to the property corner, which would then almost always fall in the sidewalk.

We would generally set a scribed cross in a paint mark first, and then spend the last part of our time just moving around with drills, hammers, chisels, and a pouch full of tags and etruscan pins, which would be bent before we put them in. It went pretty quickly. The tags would be slightly countersunk.

It seemed pretty permanent at the time - might be interesting to see how well they held up.

IN MY NECK OF THE WOODS, WE HAVE TO USE THESE
RANGE BOX

Could you post a picture of a tag and lead as you described, trying to picture it, and have noticed the reference on Paul Plutate (sp?) posts.

I've always been curious to know what others, particularly those that work in the "concrete forest", use to monument corners. How do you go about setting / prepping to set a Range Box?

> Thank You all for options, they are leaning toward an offset along the row line with a plat filed in the engineers office, has any one done this?

You're lucky to have a city that's concerned about property corner monuments. But why not just set a corner at the PI of the curve? This establishes the alignment of the right-of-way and your curve data will allow others to compute the PC and PT of the curve/lot/right-of-way line.

Corbitt

You didn't say whether the pavement is concrete or AC. If AC, just drive the rebar or iron pipe right through it. Relatively new AC is very easy. Set a metal cap flush and use a little rockcrete or cold patch to fill in any gaps around the edge of the cap.

If it's concrete, there are several excellent suggestions above.