Help with caps for iron pipes

Bernsten (maybe it was someone else) used to sell driving caps... kinda like a short piece of larger pipe that loosely fits over the end with a tapered pin welded inside. silly expensive so I made one and used it. can be used for pugs or caps
other option is to use a gad and pound out the inside so the plug goes in
another option is to hacksaw the top off after it is set a little high... using good blades and that is rather quick.

I use and like the LO Ink driver for 3/4" & 1" pipe available here:

http://www.loink.com/product/869/21

When the pogo tip gets worn, put it in your pouch. Drive pipes part way then insert the tip and finish the job. This forms a nice downward facing burr to hold the cap...

Apologies if I'm missing something here....but why don't you just tap the cap in AFTER you drive the pipe?

Peter Ehlert, post: 348817, member: 60 wrote: Bernsten (maybe it was someone else) used to sell driving caps... kinda like a short piece of larger pipe that loosely fits over the end with a tapered pin welded inside. silly expensive so I made one and used it. can be used for pugs or caps
other option is to use a gad and pound out the inside so the plug goes in
another option is to hacksaw the top off after it is set a little high... using good blades and that is rather quick.

I suggest that you set you pipe a little high and use a tubing cutter to take a little off the top then install you cap. We use Rebar with a Pin Driver from Berntsen.

Steve Corley, post: 349145, member: 23 wrote: I suggest that you set you pipe a little high and use a tubing cutter to take a little off the top then install you cap. We use Rebar with a Pin Driver from Berntsen.

🙂 Tubing cutter is a great idea.

Those big tubing cutters are expensive I think, maybe $150 or more, I have never owned one. You do need more than a foot of swing room and they tend to pinch the ID making plugs difficult.
hacksaws are cheap, usually we had one with us anyway for other tasks.

I have not used pipe for years. When I did, it was considered "pinched" pipe. This was mainly die to the fact the boss bought pipe in 18' lengths and we hacksawed each one off the big piece, usually when it was raining outside...Of course, the hacksaw in the truck was usually dull. We could make it halfway through the pipe and then start bending it back and forth 'til it broke off. This gave the pipe a unique "pinched" look on the end (and was identified as such in the notes). I recall being under the impression this was our company's attempt to identify them as ours. This was 20 years before capping your monuments was required.

Like I said, I don't use pipe. I did once come across a pipe apparently set by Bill Fell, Oklahoma Land Surveyor No. 1. The pipe had a threaded cap on the top and apparently had a small pilot hole drilled in the center. Fell had attached a stamped brass washer with his name and LS number by driving a concrete nail through the brass washer and into the pipe cap. I've always thought this was a really innovative way to fix a washer to a pipe. The cap could probably also be banged on pretty hard during installation without deforming the pilot hole too much.

Go to your industrial hardware store and buy a 12 inch long 7/8" bolt (hex head or domed head). You want the length to keep it from jumping out every time you strike it.

Congratulations on doing a little bit more than the "Minumum Standard."! Those who follow in your footsteps will be thankful...

exbert, post: 348814, member: 6143 wrote: Hi. I live in NC and we are not required to set caps with our monuments, but the other states I'm licensed do. I like the idea, so I attempt to set them in NC, too. I usually set 1" (inside) iron pipes. I bought some plastic caps from Bernsten that go inside a 1" pipe or around 5/8" rebar. I also have some aluminum caps that go inside a 1" pipe. The caps fit great before I start pounding the pipes into the ground. By the time I have hammered the pipes in the ground the top of the pipe is so deformed that getting the caps inside of them is a bitch. Any advice on how to get my pipes in the ground without deforming them? Is there a brand of caps that you all prefer? I'm considering going to a smaller diameter pipe, so I don't have to hammer it so hard. Thanks!

Congratulations on doing a little bit more than the "Minumum Standard."! Those who follow in your footsteps will be thankful...

https://surveyorconnect.com/attachments/021-1-jpg.2285/?temp_hash=e8429828814be5b8828532af09c24768

This is what I use and it works great.
I cut pipe (3/4" nominal) to length with a pipe cutter and the pipe in a vise on the tailgate.
The bolt is much better than the pipe driver I got from Brentsen. I've named it Usain. The bigger the bolt the better. Lots of heavy washers helps too.
Don't drive with a maul or small sledge. The bigger the hammer the better.
A bigger hammer and a bigger bolt transmit the same force over more time so there's less mushrooming of the pipe. I think that's why it works.
My only complaint is that the Brentsen cap with plastic insert gets cocked a little if not careful.