Notifications
Clear all

Digging a bore hole

11 Posts
9 Users
0 Reactions
4 Views
 FLS
(@fls)
Posts: 532
Registered
Topic starter
 

I have to dig a trench from my gas meter to my pool heater. I have a brick walk and boulder wall in the way. I'd hate to dig both of them up, so here's a bright idea?!?!?

I think if I dig a 2-3' hole on the edge of the walk I could drive in a 2" peice of PVC to the bank then pull it out and clean it out and repeat...

I'd have to go about 8'.

What do you think about this idea?

Thanks

Forrest

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 9:37 am
(@sicilian-cowboy)
Posts: 1606
Registered
 

First you need to file a set of plans with the Building Department.

Then you need to call for a utility mark-out.

Then you have to design a jacking pit to drive the pipe and a receiving pit for the other end.

Then, you have to get approval on the shoring of both the holes and the adjacent building and get approval on a dewatering plan.

Traffic protection for the pedestrians that will be passing by and layout by a licensed land surveyor for the route.

Don't forget a final survey.

Sounds like a fun project......;-)

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 9:52 am
 jud
(@jud)
Posts: 1920
Registered
 

Go to your local equipment rental outlet

Go to your local rental equipment outlet, they may have a horizontal bore you can use with extensions on the drive shaft so your hole won't need to be a long one. If they don't, pick their brain anyway for ideas that others have successfully used. Soil type and depth, are there rocks or boulders? Find out, it is the subsurface conditions that will dictate methods.
jud

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 9:56 am
 FLS
(@fls)
Posts: 532
Registered
Topic starter
 

Digging a bore holeGo to your local equipment o

I dug and built the house and we hit mostly clay and sand.

Just found something about putting a high pressue garden hole nozzle in the pvc pipe and just keep stuffing it in and out. Not sure if the hose will be needed, but may have it on hand.

I know I'm going to drive it right through the gutter outlet pipe and have to dig it up anyway.

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 10:03 am
(@keith-luttrell)
Posts: 100
Registered
 

One method would be to use water pressure from a power washer or the garden hose. Hook it up to a piece of pipe and let the water do the work. Depends on your soil type.

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 10:05 am
(@snoop)
Posts: 1468
Registered
 

Nevermind.

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 10:21 am
 ddsm
(@ddsm)
Posts: 2229
 

Rent a Hydro Drill?

http://www.perfectoproducts.net/index.php?page=hydro-drill

:beer:

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 10:23 am
(@foggyidea)
Posts: 3467
Registered
 

I have used that method to get pre-dredge samples and it works pretty well...

Make sure to cap off the exposed end so that when you draw it out it acts like a straw in a milkshake ...

Might take a while, but once you clear Siciliancowbys hoops you should be well under way...

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 11:17 am
(@perry-williams)
Posts: 2187
Registered
 

Only 8', I bet your method will work. You could probably even dig some of the 8' with a shovel if necessary.

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 12:14 pm
 FLS
(@fls)
Posts: 532
Registered
Topic starter
 

I'm feeling good about it and will make pics

thanks

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 12:39 pm
(@clearcut)
Posts: 937
Registered
 

Myself I would probably drive a steel pipe with a sledge, using a pointed iron tip threaded onto the lead end.

The water idea is OK, but will need some sort of trash pump to get rid of the mud coming out. Plus it will be a muddy sloppy operation while you're trying to shove the pipe while standing in the hole where all that muddy muck is coming out of the pipe. The other problem with this method is that it is hard to control the size of void created ahead of the pipe you're trying to shove. Could result in hydraulic pumping of soil ahead and outside of the pipe with subsequent settling of the walk.

I got the steel tip idea from my grandfather. He used to weld up what he called a drive point which he used to use to produce hand driven wells in alluvial soils. He would use it on the front of a perforated pipe and would drive it down until it was in the aquifer, adding non-perforated pipe as it was driven down. Usually about 30 - 40' in length with the lower 8' being the perforated section. The drive point is pretty easy to make, just take a piece of pipe and work it up with the torches, then hit it with the welder. For your operation you probably don't need to worry too much about hard-facing it. Then weld it to a female threaded section and put it onto the male threads of the pipe you're going to drive.
Drive it through, when it pokes out in the hole you're aiming for, simply unthread the drive point and slide your gas line through.

Or you could just trench through the walk and put it back when done. That would probably be my first choice considering the ease of putting the brick and rock back.

 
Posted : June 29, 2011 1:30 pm