I'm need to pick up some new spikes for control. I have been using regular 8" landscape spikes, but they are pretty pricey and do not have a dimple on the top. I see that they have some newer options, 6" & 8" mag hubs and 8" hammerless hubs. They seem quite a bit cheaper.
Has anyone used these? Can you drive them into the edge of a pavement (not full pavement)?
Thanks
I was thinking they cost more than the landscape spikes, but I'm not sure.
There's about 200 count in a 50 pound box of 8" spikes for a $80-90 box.
here are the mag hubs.
http://www.hayesinstrument.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=2691&sid=3b6LA-2y0HVLEVH-06112395566.2c
Thats what I find anyway...
I call them bridge spikes, they are beefier than the mag nails. I want those spikes un-galvanized, so they will rust and produce a good hit on the pin finder, that makes the magnetic signature of a mag nail have little value.
jud
We generally use 1/2" rebar and have plastic caps marked "TRAV" and my license number on them. The same caps also fit perfectly on the head of 60d nails which we use when a rebar isn't practical.
I use Bright common 60d nails with a stake chaser for high visibility.
Mine remain undisturbed longer, when I drive them just below the surface then kick a little dirt on them. Sometimes I will tie a little ribbon on them, but does not take long for that to break down.
jud
60's get the job done here. Solid, high-percentage clay soils. Great for stealth surveying.
This post has good timing.
Started a new project today, so I went in the box this morning to find there were only about 6 spikes left. I will need more. I use 12" galvanized spikes.
The Home Depot web site says they have them at about $65 per 50 pound box. Not too bad. Lowes does not have them.
Jud - I have not experienced the problems you noted with the magnetic signal using my galvanized spikes, and I too sink them a few inches. I have used the Berntsen "Magnetizer" for points in wide open areas; it does make them easier to sniff out.
Ken
We use 6" Mag hubs...highly recommended. They are nice because the prism-point stays in the middle of the nail (even on an angle). We sometimes add a washer for long-term stability in the ground.
These mag hubs are not nearly as durable as the mag nails...cannot be driven into solid pavement...but they serve their purpose well.
Ditto, 12" spikes are what I prefer.
Most around here use 60d common. Now they are nickle coated and a rod point just will not stay on one unless it is punched.
Have changed to 60d galvanized. Has cross-hatched top, a good magnetic signature and better tensile strength.
A square of orange followed with a bottle cap spinner and will stay in place.
Put plastic cap over GPS control points.
I also set them at least 0.2' deep.
$60/50lb
I use 8" hot-dipped galvanized spikes when I'm not in pavement, as long as the soil is firm enough to hold them. If not, I'll use rebar or form stakes, or sometimes an 18" 1X2 with a tack. I don't go through them fast enough to make cost an issue, so I don't know what I pay. I generally buy them at Home Depot.
I punch all steel markers -- even concrete nails -- both to identify the point and to make it easier to stand a pole up on it.
Don't get me started on using Rebar as control....
because some landowner will build a fence to it.
File a cross on the 60D nails or prick punch them.
We use 60d common. If you want a dimple, take a punch. I've driven them in asphalt and concrete seams. The harder the ground, the more you have to "love them in" (a quote by Robby Christopher, but still effective). 🙂
Don't get me started on using Rebar as control....
> because some landowner will build a fence to it.
I've been using rebar for control since 1997 and that hasn't happen to me so far.
Maybe it's different in OK but ..
Around here, laypeople know that surveyors set Rebars for corners. You would confuse the heck out of them by using Rebar.
We started using the mag hub , They give off a bigger magnetic signal when going back to them .
Maybe it's different in OK but ..
Most of that time was in Oregon and Washington, where rebar is also the property corner marking material of choice. My experience is that people build fences to the lath and wonder WTF the yellow thingy is all about, even after it has been explained.
Maybe it's different in OK but ..
> Most of that time was in Oregon and Washington, where rebar is also the property corner marking material of choice. My experience is that people build fences to the lath and wonder WTF the yellow thingy is all about, even after it has been explained.
:good: