Perimeter and several interior lines. choppa-choppa-choppa
Would that be a few days of chopping in CADD, 3 years of government red tape, then the fun of staking? lol. Sounds like a nice job to have (except the red tape).
> Would that be a few days of chopping in CADD, 3 years of government red tape, then the fun of staking? lol. Sounds like a nice job to have (except the red tape).
Nope, Machete in one hand, bow saw in the other and hammer in my belt. Will be setting raised hubs on top of sawed off saplings or driving stakes and setting nails on top. You can traverse 60 setups per day w/ 2 man crew. No other way to fly in the woods.
Sounds like some great, great work.
Enjoy it- I certainly would!
sounds like a winner project ... have fun!...
Start choppin now, by the time you get set-up the leaves will be out and you get to do it again!
Congrats on the job!
"Will be setting raised hubs on top of sawed off saplings or driving stakes and setting nails on top"
I have a friend in The Berkshires that has done that for years, I can't figure out how you plumb over a point up so high. Every time I try a high setup line that it takes me an excessively long time to plumb the instrument. I use a traverse set and mag-hubs for traverse points, it goes pretty fast but it is a lot of gear to carry.
How did the sugar season go?
T.W.
For the high setup you need to revert to the procedure used in the old days before optical or laser plummets when there was a plumb bob hanging. After stepping the legs in the ground, use the leg adjustments to get back over the point (instead of leveling the bullseye first, if that's the way you do it). Still, the higher it is the more important your eyeball initial setting is. Had a boss who always used the plumb bob even though we had a gun with the optical one.
I like spikes even in the woods though. Tend to squeeze shots through small gaps rather than do a lot of brushing and that necessitates being able to put the control precisely where I want it where there usually isn't a stub to cut off. But the high points seem nice if you have to work when there's 4 feet of snow. On the other hand, I wonder if the snow shifts the location of them? Seems like they would bend one way or another. Then there's all the other natural calamities in the woods that might shift the position.
Another method of setting on a tall traverse point is set the legs up so you can look through the optical plummet and align on point, then adjust the legs so that you are bullseye level, then looking through the plummet see how far you miss the point,and using the fine level screws point the plummet halfway back to the traverse point. relevel with the legs and you should be close.
if not repeat : )
TOm
Once you get used to it, it's faster than setting up over a point on the ground.
Sugar season was lousy. Worst year by far in 24 years. 1/3 crop.
If you have a reflectorless instrument, try using reflective tape on your nails. Then you don't have to bother with those prism things... 🙂
The best tape I've found is the heavy stuff in small rolls that you would normally stick to the back of semi trailers. The glue is really sticky. You can pre-cut many.. experiment with sizes, shapes, colors. I used both red and white. I have Nikon NPL332 reflectorless and have no problems with 400- 500' to a target as shown in the picture. Change your prism offset to zero - or figure out the couple millimeters that is really is.
