I have two map sheets I need to apply a spray coating to and was wondering if anyone has a brand name they can suggest, one that has proven reliable over time.
We've always used Krylon Crystal Clear for spraying over my rubber stamp to prevent smearing. Nowadays, though we use a digital stamp so it just plots with the rest of the map and doesn't smear (unless we plot on the wrong side of the mylar, but then we just do it over).
Spray coating for Mylars - Steve
Thanks Steve. Is that a matte spray or clear?
> I have two map sheets I need to apply a spray coating to and was wondering if anyone has a brand name they can suggest, one that has proven reliable over time.
I used to use Krylong Workable Fixatif -- I still have a can on the shelf -- but it's been at least 10 years since anyone's required me to spray a mylar.
Spray coating for Mylars - Jim
Thanks.
I use a service for plotting mylars and the process they use is electrostatic bonding to the mylar. There have been a few times, usually just before their plotters need maintenance, that the bonding is weak and portions of the map flakes off.
The map I need to coat will be signed by eight different people which will mean that a lot of handling of the map sheet will be involved. I just want to have some type of insurance that the map will not start to flake during or after the signing process.
Paul:
Many years ago, we used to use a fixative spray on the mylars that we had made at the blueprinters from our hand drawn vellums. If you didn't, the lines & letters, etc. would chip off. I can't find any old cans of the fixative spray.
Spray coating for Mylars - Steve
Well, it says it's clear but you can definitely see where you've sprayed. I just take a piece of paper and cut a round hole and spray through that so the sprayed part at least has clean edges. Are you spraying the whole sheet? Is it to prevent smearing?
Spray coating for Mylars - Steve
> .. Are you spraying the whole sheet? Is it to prevent smearing?
Two sheets Steve to prevent the bonded ink from flaking.
> Thanks.
>
> I use a service for plotting mylars and the process they use is electrostatic bonding to the mylar. There have been a few times, usually just before their plotters need maintenance, that the bonding is weak and portions of the map flakes off.
This is exactly why Electrostatic bonding doesn't work. It can be printer maintenance. It can be TOO thick of Mylar as well. 3.5mil or less.
Best to use Pen and Ink plotter or find a service that does photo mylar.
my 0.02c
What's the point in using mylar if the ink just "flakes" off!
> > Thanks.
> >
> > I use a service for plotting mylars and the process they use is electrostatic bonding to the mylar. There have been a few times, usually just before their plotters need maintenance, that the bonding is weak and portions of the map flakes off.
>
> This is exactly why Electrostatic bonding doesn't work. It can be printer maintenance. It can be TOO thick of Mylar as well. 3.5mil or less.
>
> Best to use Pen and Ink plotter or find a service that does photo mylar.
>
> my 0.02c
Paul,
We use Krylon "Kamar Varnish" part#1312 It's non yellowing, leaves a matte finish, depending on how thick you spray it and it's acid free.
Also, we don't use the electrostatic process either. The county requires a Chrono-flex mylar which as Jered stated, is a photo process. But it is very expensive.
Spray coating for Mylars - BL
> What's the point in using mylar if the ink just "flakes" off!
On rare occasions it does flake. Since this map will be going through so much handling I just want some extra insurance.
Spray coating for Mylars - BL
I read somewhere that you was only supposed to use zerox ink!
It wouldn't fade and was water resistant!
But I have never seen this product,
> > What's the point in using mylar if the ink just "flakes" off!
>
> On rare occasions it does flake. Since this map will be going through so much handling I just want some extra insurance.
I second Steve's choice. I have been using it for 30 years.
Why not just get archival quality copies made?
What kind of copies did you have in mind, Jim? If Paul could take the electrostatic maps and get them copied on to mylar with a more permanent process, that would work but with all those signatures required, these must be maps that are going to be recorded and the Prof. LS Act and the Subd. Map Act in CA require:
"...a map, legibly drawn, printed, or reproduced by a process guaranteeing a permanent record in black on tracing cloth or polyester base film... If ink is used on polyester base film, the ink surface shall be coated with a suitable substance to assure permanent legibility."
By tracing cloth, I suppose they mean something like linen? One county I work in used to require ink on linen. You don't want to do too many revisions on that stuff.
Or Paul could just buy a can of Krylon that will probably last him for decades to come.
> "If ink is used on polyester base film, the ink surface shall be coated with a suitable substance to assure permanent legibility."
That's the reason I bought a can of Fixitif -- so I could spray the mylars I print on my DesignJet for filing with county recorders. However, the counties around here stopped bothering with the coating requirement years ago, probably because they scan the maps as they come in. I still have the same can of Fixitif that I bought in 1993 sitting on a shelf.
> Or Paul could just buy a can of Krylon that will probably last him for decades to come.
More likely centuries Steve
Jim: LA County insists on the coating for a Parcel Map.
If you promise not to laugh, I'll let you in on a secret.
One of the best fixatives on the market is also one of the cheapest. I learned this from my Dad, who was an artist.
You ready?
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White Rain Hair Spray!
Yep! For real! Cheap and it works, too.
Ian
> White Rain Hair Spray!
> Yep! For real! Cheap and it works, too.
Im assuming from your wording you have tested it out. How does it react to someone signing over it with india ink? Do you remember?
