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How to drive iron pipe in concrete

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sarkiss
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I'm using Bosch demolition hammer with a 1"SDS Max Rotary Hammer Bit to drill a hole for a 3/4" pipe. Usually 2 out of 3 times the bit get stuck and I waste time to get it out. What am I doing wrong? is there a better way like driving the pipe?


 
Posted : September 13, 2018 9:10 pm
true-corner
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Posted by: sarkiss

I'm using Bosch demolition hammer with a 1"SDS Max Rotary Hammer Bit to drill a hole for a 3/4" pipe. Usually 2 out of 3 timcones the bit get stuck and I waste time to get it out. What am I doing wrong? is there a better way like driving the pipe?

Hammer drill with a 1" Concrete bit should work okay.?ÿ I haven't had problems with a 3/4" hammer drill.?ÿ


 
Posted : September 13, 2018 10:08 pm
toivo1037
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If your bit is getting stuck, as it drills down rock, or circle it around about 15d.?ÿ It will ream the hole out just a little as the bit goes down.?ÿ You don't want to do that too much as it won't clear the dust out and that can then get the bit stuck on it's own.?ÿ You may need to stop now and then and blow the hole out.?ÿ It may just be time for a new bit.


 
Posted : September 14, 2018 7:16 am
a-harris
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You have to let the tool do the work and just be patient and simply hold it and not try and force it cause it is not gonna go any faster.

Been using a DeWalt battery vacuum to suck the dust and bigger particles out or plug it in the other end and blow the dust out.

Sometimes it takes a second drilling and cleaning out to complete the job.


 
Posted : September 14, 2018 2:32 pm
nate-the-surveyor
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It's best to drive them, before the concrete hardens...

N


 
Posted : September 14, 2018 3:48 pm

sarkiss
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Posted by: Nate The Surveyor

It's best to drive them, before the concrete hardens...

N

I'm setting property corner on a metal fence post concrete footing.


 
Posted : September 14, 2018 6:52 pm
thebionicman
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There are only a few reasons a hammer drill gets stuck. You may be hitting large aggregate or rebar. More likely you are forcing the tool or running a dull bit.?ÿ

Hammer drills are sensitive to too much or too little pressure. Most can be ruined in short order with a little 'prying' action or sideways pressure. Pulling back on the drill while running in hammer mode will kill it too.

Certain mixes of concrete will cause a bit to bind more often. A water kit might help, but mostly it's patience.

Oh yeah, where at least a dust mask. Silicosis sucks...


 
Posted : September 14, 2018 7:06 pm
nate-the-surveyor
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Posted by: sarkiss
Posted by: Nate The Surveyor

It's best to drive them, before the concrete hardens...

N

I'm setting property corner on a metal fence post concrete footing.

Ok ok, now I get it. Thanks


 
Posted : September 14, 2018 9:05 pm
fobos8
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take your time. Pull the drill up now and again to blow the dust out.

Also start with a smaller bit like 1/2" or 3/8" and then progress onto your 3/4 bit"


 
Posted : September 15, 2018 10:39 am
nate-the-surveyor
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I have used a 10 lb sledge, and destroyed concrete, to set a corner before...

?ÿ


 
Posted : September 15, 2018 10:47 am

sarkiss
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Posted by: Nate The Surveyor

I have used a 10 lb sledge, and destroyed concrete, to set a corner before...

?ÿ

Destroyed? I just need to drill a hole to drive the pipe flat with the surface.


 
Posted : September 15, 2018 11:13 am
nate-the-surveyor
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Mr. @sarkiss, I admit what you are getting at.

I'm admitting that I got a big hammer, instead of your solution. Many times, it was simply a spot where the cement truck was cleaned out... So my method was ok. But, you have got me stinking.... Um thinking!

N


 
Posted : September 15, 2018 12:20 pm
protracted
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Is a pipe needed for that location??ÿ Does your area have customs or provisions for setting other types of monuments??ÿ In Oregon, ORS 92.060(3) allows for other types of monuments.

(3) All lot and parcel corners except lot corners of cemetery lots must be marked with monuments of either galvanized iron pipe not less than one-half inch inside diameter or iron or steel rods not less than five-eighths inch in least dimension and not less than 24 inches long. When setting a required monument is impracticable under the circumstances:

?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ (a) The surveyor may set another type of monument; or

?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ (b) The county surveyor may waive the setting of the monument.

See 92.060(3): https://www.oregonlaws.org/ors/92.060


 
Posted : September 15, 2018 2:14 pm
rj-schneider
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As Nate was saying. putting a hammer to the footing does work.?ÿ

You can also drive a 5/8"ir ?ÿthrough most footings around here.?ÿ


 
Posted : September 15, 2018 3:11 pm
rj-schneider
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I should have edited that. In my mind I'm picturing a residential corner fence post, which are mostly six to eight foot wood fences, and sometimes chain link.?ÿ

carry on


 
Posted : September 15, 2018 4:25 pm

richard-imrie
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If it's hitting rebar, core drilling could be needed.


 
Posted : September 15, 2018 9:21 pm
john-putnam
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Posted by: Protracted

Is a pipe needed for that location??ÿ Does your area have customs or provisions for setting other types of monuments??ÿ In Oregon, ORS 92.060(3) allows for other types of monuments.

(3) All lot and parcel corners except lot corners of cemetery lots must be marked with monuments of either galvanized iron pipe not less than one-half inch inside diameter or iron or steel rods not less than five-eighths inch in least dimension and not less than 24 inches long. When setting a required monument is impracticable under the circumstances:

?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ (a) The surveyor may set another type of monument; or

?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ (b) The county surveyor may waive the setting of the monument.

See 92.060(3): https://www.oregonlaws.org/ors/92.060

FYI,

That is an old, and I mean really old, version of the statute.?ÿ Since I can remember the Oregon requirements for subdivision or partition plat corners are 5/8" x 30" rebar or 3/4"ID x 30" pipe.

For concrete, the Berntsen type copper plug or brass screws with washer are expectable in all the counties where I have worked.

That being said, a Bosche rotar-hammer makes short work of drilling holes for a 5/8"IR or copper plug.


 
Posted : September 16, 2018 9:09 am
protracted
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Posted by: John Putnam
Posted by: Protracted

Is a pipe needed for that location??ÿ Does your area have customs or provisions for setting other types of monuments??ÿ In Oregon, ORS 92.060(3) allows for other types of monuments.

(3) All lot and parcel corners except lot corners of cemetery lots must be marked with monuments of either galvanized iron pipe not less than one-half inch inside diameter or iron or steel rods not less than five-eighths inch in least dimension and not less than 24 inches long. When setting a required monument is impracticable under the circumstances:

?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ (a) The surveyor may set another type of monument; or

?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ (b) The county surveyor may waive the setting of the monument.

See 92.060(3): https://www.oregonlaws.org/ors/92.060

FYI,

That is an old, and I mean really old, version of the statute.?ÿ Since I can remember the Oregon requirements for subdivision or partition plat corners are 5/8" x 30" rebar or 3/4"ID x 30" pipe.

For concrete, the Berntsen type copper plug or brass screws with washer are expectable in all the counties where I have worked.

That being said, a Bosche rotar-hammer makes short work of drilling holes for a 5/8"IR or copper plug.

Is it old??ÿ This legit looking .gov site makes ORS 92.060(3) seem current as of 2017, https://www.oregonlegislature.gov/bills_laws/ors/ors092.html.?ÿ

But you're correct that no one sets 24" for anything because of ORS 92.060 (1) and (2) which specify other requirements for other types of corners and it is just easier to have 30" which works for all locations and purposes.?ÿ

The setting of another type of monument per ORS 92.060(3)a, which you also pointed out, was supposed to the be the emphasis.?ÿ

?ÿ

Best regards, Eli


 
Posted : September 16, 2018 11:21 am
Iceman
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set a lead plug with copper tack


 
Posted : September 17, 2018 7:21 am
MightyMoe
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Aluminum stem cap with magnet, that's what we use in those situations, grout them in. Then stem has ridges that help fix it in place, the cap can placed on top of the concrete or recessed using a wider bit to ream out the top of the hole. They are easy to stencil.


 
Posted : September 17, 2018 8:57 am

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