Flyin
> Stihl. The 260 (formerly the 026) is the smallest in the professional grade. Get ready to drop about $550 (and up) for this baby but man it's fast and is truly a professional grade. I have two of these (one is the older 026 but there is not difference).
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Currently, Stihl markets a 261 and a 241 in the pro series. The 241 is what I'm currently using for clearing line. Its the same weight and power rating as the homeowner model 250, but is made to the pro series specifications. Just over a pound heavier, the 261 is considerably more powerful. But for brush clearing, the increase power is not worth the tradeoff in weight unless one is also felling small trees or bucking logs.
I'm both logger and surveyor and have worn out a couple dozen saws over the years, going back to the days when Homelight and Mcculloch were king. My primary line of work has been clearing boundary line. In modern times I've also used Husky and Poulan. However I keep going back to Stihl and the 5 saws I'm currently running are all Stihl. The 241 is an awesome brushing saw. My personal favorite is the 440 for all around saw. I use it mostly for felling and lopping and some brushing. For big timber I pull out a 660.
Memory lane...
Back in my days (70s) of fightin blackberry patches and pecker pole stands in the Seattle area for Bonneville Power, we had our Homelite XL12s equipped with these type bars:
My PC, Gary Bean, referred to them as pulpwood or bowbars. All of the brushcuttin took place on the front and the dog kept kickbacks at bay. These things could chew up a brushline pretty fast. We kept regular saws around for any larger trees that needed felled.
Flyin
thanks, y'all. kinda confirmed where i was heading anyways, but it helps to get confirmation. think i probably first wielded a chainsaw when i was 8 or 9 (dad really wanted to make sure i could cut and shoot), but admittedly i've only ever gone through the home despot bargain saws since (haven't had much personal need for a saw in the last 15-20 years, here in town).
and work is so relentless right now and suddenly there's leaves on all the stuff that was bare a month ago... but i ain't complaining- it's been a really good 9 months in business.
so, now that we've got that answered- what's your favorite chigger repellent? (i have my own, just seeing what everybody else uses.)
thanks again.
Flyin
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> so, now that we've got that answered- what's your favorite chigger repellent? (i have my own, just seeing what everybody else uses.)
>
> thanks again.
A swimming pool at the end of the day that's just been shocked with chlorine. 🙂
I have two Shindaiwa chainsaws, a weedeater and a blower that are between 12 and 4 years old. All have seen nothing but av gas since new. All still start with no more than three pulls, have done nothing but change plugs.
You might look at the weedeater with a chainsaw attachment for brush.
Memory lane...
Personally, I think bowbars should be renamed "throw-it-in-the-trashcan-bar".
No matter what brand you end up with, spend the extra money on a quality set of chainsaw chaps. I've seen more than my fair share of injuries on people who were to lazy or stupid to wear chainsaw chaps, and they are one UGLY injury. Don't become a statistic just because you think "it can't happen to me".
Have you thought about a pole saw? Used one on a pipeline job a couple years ago. We couldn't cut anything over 6", etc. I preferred it over the chain saw for cutting line.
There is a Stihl shop in nearly every town. They make good saws.
A few things to consider.
It sounds like your survey crew has not had to operate a chainsaw as part of their job duties. That would made me a little cautious about turning them loose with a chain saw for the first time (same thing for machetes).
I would question the crew and see who has the most experience running a chainsaw.
That guy would be the only one who ran that piece of equipment. He would be the sole person responsible for maintenance and up-keep on the saw as well. That way there is no place to cast blame if the saw is being abused.
If nobody is experienced with chain saws, I would hire a sub-contractor to do the brushing.
You will get more life out of the saw if you use the right fuel/oil mixture.
To make it easy on the crew match the fuel can capacity to the 2-cycle oil container. I use a 1 gallon can and an oil that is sized to mix 1 gallon of fuel. That way it is a no brainer.
i'm the crew. and i have plenty of experience with chainsaws (saw-cut timbers and built a barn, cleared dad's 5 acres, usual fenceline and firewood stuff), and plenty of experience cutting line, just not much experience cutting line with chainsaws. having been an office rat for the last decade, i had little- if any- daily need for or interaction with saws. having been back in up and running on this new gig for 9 months now, we're busy as can be, to the point the workload and specific jobs are paying for investment in tools i'll need and use for years. got a proper truck about a month ago, then this last round of signed proposals coupled with the onset of spring makes getting a quality saw the next priority. i'm just used to going through 99 dollar specials and yard sale saws, then tossing them when they bite the dust. don't want one of those at this point.
I guess I should have looked at your handle closer!
Brushing saws need to be light and in the early days, that meant a short bar as well. Every brushing saw I ever saw in a survey shop had a 14" bar and one of those brushing hoops covered in dust laying on the floor.
With saws being made primarily from plastic these days, I think you could get away with running a longer bar. People that cut brush lines for a living (forestry companies and fire crews), use longer bars. There must be a reason for this.
If I was worried about hauling it on a 4-wheeler or had to pack it in a long distance, I might go for a smaller saw.
Otherwise, I wouldn't run anything shorter than a 24" bar.
Brushing saws tend to get dull pretty fast. I use a skip tooth chain, so there are half as many teeth to sharpen.
The ripper teeth also thend to get neglected. I ran a saw for decades before I knew there was such a thing as a tooth gauge.
Be careful out there running a chainsaw by yourself.
Flyin
I believe the 200 is the smallest pro saw Stihl makes, but is costly. Also make a top handled version of same saw, 201T. But will only be able to put up to 16" bar on it.
Don't forget the STAR-TRON
This stuff. I get it for around 7 bucks a bottle, like the one listed below, on ebay.
You can tell the difference.
It sure makes them run better, and not foul the carb, with ethanol.
Hi-staker is correct. Whatever saw you buy you need to get chaps, boots and Helmet. I spent 20 years cutting lines with a slasher because they are easier to carry than a saw and assorted accessories.
I went to a couple of chainsaw safety, maintanence and technique training days and now use a saw when needed.
Learn about chain kick back and what causes it.( anything that comes in contact with top quadrant of the bar nose will do it.)
It does not matter how small and harmless a saw looks, it will make a nasty cut in anything softer than wood even if its not running.
Chain speed and the ability to keep it is what does the cutting. Too many people go and get the biggest bar they can find and then wonder why the saw dies in the cuts.
Learn how to sharpen the chain yourself and how to maintain it in the feild. They are like kitchen knives, when they get blunt they get more dangerous. ( a few spare chains is a good idea.)
It doesn't take much of a scuff on dirt or a stone to take the edge of the cutting edge.
For your needs a 14" to 16" bar will be plenty big enough.
Buy anything that has a good service backup in your area. Any of the main brands are worth looking into , Husky, Stihl, Echo and Makita (DCS models only).
I bought a Stihl 034AV in 1990. It doesn't get heavy use anymore but did for a few years. Now I use it occassionally, and once every 2 or 3 years may cut up a couple cord of oak firewood with it. I get it serviced about once every 3 years and it runs great. Like others have siad, keep the chain sharp. If I'm going to cut a lot of wood, I'll take several sharpened chains with me and just change the chain out rather than take the time to sharpen it in the field.
If you're going through a lot of thick small stuff, a chainsaw can be a problem. If you're not careful, small stems that you just cut through while cutting through a bunch of stems (like the willows that grow close to the water) can get caught in the chain and cause your saw to throw the chain. A flailing chain can cause some nasty gashes and can also cause damage to the bar.
I saw a while back where someone contracted with a bobcat operator for getting through a bunch of small stuff. If you don't often have need of the saw otherwise, hiring a bobcat may be your most economical option.
nate .
I use av. gas so no need for stablizer
Lamon
Ah Ha! I guess that will work too!
OK, for the rest of us, without an airport nearby..... 🙂
N
