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Alternative to lead

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 ken
(@ken)
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I don't know about the rest of the country, but around here in the NW it was common to set a tack in lead with a washer in the curb line( at lot line extensions) in a plat. Nowadays it's shunned in some jurisdictions to use that, for fear the lead will wash down stream. Just curious what others would use in mass production? I've used epoxy that is the clay type, but just thought I'd ask others in the biz what might be more efficient in a large plat. Thanks!

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 2:21 pm
(@jimmy-cleveland)
Posts: 2812
 

Around here I use a skillsaw and diamond blade to cut a crow's foot (arrowhead) in the curb, paint the saw kerfs with orange paint marker, and hit it with clearcoat. Looks really good and the owners can see them easily.

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 2:34 pm
 ken
(@ken)
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Thanks Jimmy, good idea. I'd like to see a picture of that sometime.

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 2:38 pm
(@thebionicman)
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We are purchasing the copper clad caps from berntsen. They set easily with a battery powered hammer drill. You can stamp PC WC RM or what not on the cap and have room for your LS number...

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 2:51 pm
(@bruce-small)
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I use epoxy, and I often see my epoxied disks around town that I set 20 years ago, still there, especially the brass tags that are essentially flush with the concrete. I use a wood stake as a mixing surface and a craft stick to stir the epoxy, while wearing disposable latex gloves. The stake is good for at least a dozen mixes, and I wipe the mixing stick clean with the glove before tossing the glove. It helps to let the two containers warm up in the sun before mixing.

A crow's foot cut with a saw does not meet Arizona's rule requiring monuments to have the surveyor's identification number.

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 3:15 pm
(@jered-mcgrath-pls)
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There are many concrete monuments and or alternatives out there but this is what we use.

http://www.berntsen.com/Surveying/Concrete-Survey-Markers/BP-Series-Markers-for-Concrete/ctl/ViewProduct/mid/585/ItemID/405

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 3:34 pm
 ken
(@ken)
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Thanks all, the Berntsen one is a good idea.

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 6:40 pm
(@kent-mcmillan)
Posts: 11419
 

> I don't know about the rest of the country, but around here in the NW it was common to set a tack in lead with a washer in the curb line( at lot line extensions) in a plat.

In Central and West Texas with annual rainfall of 30" or (much) less, I'd drill a 3/8" hole into the curb and drive a 3/8" x 8" spike through a stamped 2" aluminum washer into the hole. Just kinking the spike about midway down secures it with no grout or adhesive. Punchmark on head of spike is the actual mark and washer has plenty of room to add additional stampings such as Pt. I.D. numbers.

In the Pacific NW, you might need to use galvanized spikes.

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 7:28 pm
(@norman-oklahoma)
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> In the Pacific NW, you might need to use galvanized spikes.
The Bernsten plugs are the way go. They are gaining widespread acceptance in Portland.

 
Posted : September 18, 2014 8:10 pm
(@kent-mcmillan)
Posts: 11419
 

> The Bernsten plugs are the way go. They are gaining widespread acceptance in Portland.

They're copper, right? Do they rely upon being countersunk in the concrete surface for protection from damage or is it a hard copper alloy?

 
Posted : September 19, 2014 6:55 am
(@jim-frame)
Posts: 7277
 

> They're copper, right? Do they rely upon being countersunk in the concrete surface for protection from damage or is it a hard copper alloy?

It's a fairly soft alloy, if it's alloyed at all. But they're best installed using one of these:

That way the disk can be set flush with the concrete, quickly and easily.

 
Posted : September 19, 2014 7:06 am
(@jered-mcgrath-pls)
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> > The Bernsten plugs are the way go. They are gaining widespread acceptance in Portland.
>
> They're copper, right? Do they rely upon being countersunk in the concrete surface for protection from damage or is it a hard copper alloy?

Yes, they are copper. per Berntsen.
We always Countersink.
http://www.berntsen.com/Surveying/Concrete-Survey-Markers/BP-Series-Markers-for-Concrete/ctl/ViewProduct/mid/585/itemID/406
It's a pretty hard monument what ever the alloy mix is but soft enough to stamp if you order blank ones.

 
Posted : September 19, 2014 7:06 am
(@norman-oklahoma)
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> They're copper, right? Do they rely upon being countersunk in the concrete surface for protection from damage or is it a hard copper alloy?
Bronze, I think. Some alloy, in any case. They tarnish gray/black, not green. It is best to countersink them (Bernsten sells a drill bit that both drills the hole and makes the countersink) but not always necessary.

 
Posted : September 19, 2014 7:15 am
(@kent-mcmillan)
Posts: 11419
 

> It's a pretty hard monument what ever the alloy mix is but soft enough to stamp if you order blank ones.

It looks like it only has room for 15 characters if pre-stamped. I'm not a fan of monuments with just a registration number on them. With the 2-inch Surv-Kap washer discs (about $1.00 pre-stamped), I can get "KENT MCMILLAN, SURVEYOR, RPLS 4341" on mine and still have room left for a Pt. I.D. number. The 3/8" spikes I use are probably less than $0.25 ungalvanized.

 
Posted : September 19, 2014 7:53 am
 vern
(@vern)
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Can't resist.....

Follow, or GET OUT OF THE WAY!

 
Posted : September 19, 2014 1:51 pm