We've been doing a bunch of subdivisions lately.?ÿ
Our involvement with them is boundary and platting only anymore.?ÿ
All the topo, layout design, engineering and construction is done by others.?ÿ
One thing at the end of the project we need to do is set Lot corners.?ÿ
Here is a picture of one subdivision and the stamped lot corners ready for setting.?ÿ
There were 75, one day the PC was rained out for a boundary, came back to town and set 60 of them. The rebar is pounded in by the Dewalt, saves tons of time.?ÿ
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What model dewalt? Battery powered? Thanks, Jp
Wonderful plan. We set 3/4" iron bars on one subdivision. In July. Miserable as Hell.
For the innocents about, it is important to note that the bars will not be "exactly" where the plat says they are. The locations are set, but the bars will wander a bit during driving. Thus "original" bars may not match distances to the presumed accuracy.
Beautiful pins !, give that PC a bonus.
Nice. Both the public and surveyors are best served by stamped caps that clearly indicate what the monument represents...
(he said, working in an area where pretty much no one stamps their caps with tract/lot numbers)
What model dewalt? Battery powered? Thanks, Jp
DCH775 battery.
Nice. Both the public and surveyors are best served by stamped caps that clearly indicate what the monument represents...
(he said, working in an area where pretty much no one stamps their caps with tract/lot numbers)
Each cap has the pt# on it under the top. The DC will tell you which point you're staking and that is compared to a chart with the point# and the lot configuration. As you might guess it's best to have them stamped out beforehand. It's real easy to put the wrong Lot numbers if you're not careful. Of course you can load the map into the DC also.
Once you start labelling the corner monuments you'll never go back to not doing it.
Wonderful plan. We set 3/4" iron bars on one subdivision. In July. Miserable as Hell.
For the innocents about, it is important to note that the bars will not be "exactly" where the plat says they are. The locations are set, but the bars will wander a bit during driving. Thus "original" bars may not match distances to the presumed accuracy.
Give a driver a try, you'll be surprised how much closer your pins will be. You still have to "gently tap" them sometimes.
Thanks! That works well. Learn something new every day. Jp
Thanks! That works well. Learn something new every day. Jp
Takes about 1/10 of that time for a 2 foot rebar.
We don't have any rocks, here in Harris Co. I would guess if you don't have to carry the hammer around, the drill would be okay.
No rock?!?! I own ground where some rocks stand taller than the flora growing about them and prickly pear cactus can be found.
Wow, pointed rebar! You highroller.
Wow, pointed rebar! You highroller.
Thinking the same thing! how much are the Iron Rods you are setting?
Wow, pointed rebar! You highroller.
Are you truly saying your rebar aren't pointed and beveled?
Wow, pointed rebar! You highroller.
Are you truly saying your rebar aren't pointed and beveled?
Wow, pointed rebar! You highroller.
Thinking the same thing! how much are the Iron Rods you are setting?
2"Ac on 24" rebar is about $9.
Wow, pointed rebar! You highroller.
Are you truly saying your rebar aren't pointed and beveled?
Ironically, we were just talking about how the rebar seller here puts the bevel on the top. It looks nice but also lets the plastic caps slide off kind of easy and we realized the burr left by the companies that snipped the rebar actually worked in our favor.
Wow, pointed rebar! You highroller.
Are you truly saying your rebar aren't pointed and beveled?
Ironically, we were just talking about how the rebar seller here puts the bevel on the top. It looks nice but also lets the plastic caps slide off kind of easy and we realized the burr left by the companies that snipped the rebar actually worked in our favor.
No plastic caps allowed here, they can't be stamped anyway. The aluminum caps love the beveled tops, hate the burred tops.
