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Setting Control inside

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(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

The contractor was pretty happy with our work on the steel column as-built at the hospital the other day and has asked us to come back out and set some control for the project. Two points will be inside near the elevator on the first and second floors. I'm thinking it will be easiest to set a point in the elevator and then they can just call it to either floor as needed and hold the door open to get on the control point. The floor is tile and I am wondering what suggestions are for setting a mark that will be durable and not rub off under foot traffic or a janitor with a floor buffer?

And yes, I am kidding about setting a point in the elevator.

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 7:50 am
Wendell
(@wendell)
Posts: 5782
Admin
 

> And yes, I am kidding about setting a point in the elevator.

Dang it! I would have loved to see some of the responses. 😛

(moved to Land Surveying category)

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 7:54 am
(@jim-frame)
Posts: 7277
 

What kind of tile? If it's pliable, a cutoff cup tack driven flush might work. If it's stone, a discretely scribed cross comes to mind. How badly are you allowed to deface the surface?

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 7:56 am
(@kris-morgan)
Posts: 3876
 

I'd set the control so that it goes away after a while thereby giving you job security.

🙂

.05 MM pencil mark sprayed with clear coat to seal it should do the trick. The tile floor isn't a floating floor is it?

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 8:03 am
(@angelo-fiorenza)
Posts: 219
 

Use a small mechanical pencil to set the marks, then use a couple of coats of clear spray paint to protect them.

When you set up on them, set 90 degree sight marks for ties on the surrounding walls, so that if you lose them, you can "buck in".

Also take the measurements to the ties, if you don't want to do a lot of "bucking'..

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 8:08 am
(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

I didn't check the hardness of the material but it sure looks like a cut stone tile. I've been talking to the super and it looks like we are going to be allowed to deface it since they will be rearranging walls in the immediate vicinity and a re-tile job is included in the work. Alternatively, I may be able to set a mark on the ceiling too.

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 8:09 am
(@gregg-bothell)
Posts: 82
Registered
 

I would think that a small (1/16"-1/8") drill hole would do the trick.

Don't forget to paint a circle around it with the point number.;-)

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 8:15 am
(@rankin_file)
Posts: 4016
 

.05 mm ????
that's a pretty fine line..........

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 8:16 am
(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

With half a can of dayglo orange, right?

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 8:31 am
(@dave-ingram)
Posts: 2142
 

That was going to be my suggestion. Drill a very small hole - maybe very shallow as well - and mark it with a marker to make it stand out. But even if the marker gets worn off, the hole will remain. Maybe try using a Dremel tool with one of their specialty bits that will cut through the flooring material.

And BTW - what's wrong with the control point on the elevator floor?;-)

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 8:38 am
(@moe-shetty)
Posts: 1426
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if the tile joints are narrow enough, couldn't you decide on an intersection and make that your control station? or am i not framing the situation right?

if you're lucky enough to get help from the building superintendent/engineer, have them stop the elevator.open the doors on both floors and transfer the control via plumb bob. very good control on one axis, at least.

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 9:19 am
(@cyril-turner)
Posts: 310
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I'd take my 5lb sledge and just drive a Mag nail through the tile.

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 9:23 am
(@carl-b-correll)
Posts: 1910
 

> I'd take my 5lb sledge and just drive a Mag nail through the tile.

Cyril, I liiiiike the way you think!!!

But I'm with the small Dremel drill hole crowd. Maybe a drop of White-out, or a Sharpie, then some poly?

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 9:47 am
(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

For Moe

It's a two story situation here. I don't know where you would put the elevator while the doors are open to be able to get the plumb bob past it. The elevator car is either parked at the first floor or parked at the second floor. No basement and no extensive overrun to hide the car in.

Interestingly enough, the project includes rotating the elevator 90° and moving it to one side so that the doors open to where the elevator used to be.

Someone picked an expensive design change but I suppose that's what needed to be done.

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 10:06 am
(@joe-the-surveyor)
Posts: 1948
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Hang on...I'm still laughing over the elevator comment..:-)

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 10:11 am
(@dave-karoly)
Posts: 12001
 

yeah set a benchmark in the elevator. that way all floors are the same elevation.

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 10:22 am
(@moe-shetty)
Posts: 1426
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uh, laughing at me?

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 10:49 am
(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

If you look at the thread view, he replied to the original post. It just stacks up underneath my reply to you.

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 10:51 am
(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

Traverse Plan

Here is the planned route for the traverse. BM symbols indicate the anticipated location of the control points based on a walkabout with the project super this morning. 6 points outside and 2 inside. Not sure what to do about the open leg running into the hospital and up a ramp to the second floor except lots of redundant angles and taking care with the observations.

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 10:56 am
(@kris-morgan)
Posts: 3876
 

Andy

Why don't you just run a few more points to the roof and close it out?

 
Posted : July 27, 2010 10:58 am
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