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I want to leave what I found for the next person that wants to go to LiPo batteries. At this point I am a big believer in a PCB and the proper charger. I am not the first to go to LiPo on here, but, this is what I have learned for the next guy.
There does exist a real fire concern from LiPo, seriously overcharge them and they will go off, plenty videos of this on YouTube. These concerns are from the R/C community and do relate more to their much faster discharge and charge rates and the fact they are in object that can crash. We charge much slower, use PCB's that guarantee individual cell charge rates that minimize the risk and will not allow overcharging or the drain of too much energy. With PCB's they are setup just like li-ion batteries from the manufacturers. The risk is still there though and if you want to go this route you must make sure that another charger cannot inadvertently be hooked up as that is a fire surely. You should also commit to placing the charging station on metal and away by itself. I am also going to start using fiberglass bags designed for LiPo's by the R/C industry, overkill to be sure, but, it is better to be safe.
Why use them with this concern then? Weight and size, battery weight for the same output is half or less and so is the size. How is that possible? LiPo does not use a hard casing, there is no metal casing just a hard to the touch little rectangle. In a different thread I printed a very small little battery that works great as a battery for the top of a rod. It would have had too much weight to be as effective in NiMh and honestly I see little to no safety difference between li-ion and LiPo
I had the parts for this and we could use it, so, I took picture as I wired it.
A simple re-cell of an old NiCd battery. This is an old Geodimeter radio battery from a long time ago.

It is a glued split half battery that has 10 cells and a small circuit board and integral DINI plug. Our LiPo batteries will fit leaving the circuit board and DINI plug, so, I am leaving them. This battery has been re-celled before as can be seen from the super glue left in the sides and the stains on the circuit board.
Scrape as much off as we can of the super glue residue and generally just clean up the old veteran.
A LiPo battery is 3.7 volts per cell so three of them is 11.1 volts. You can use four, but, you would have to wire in a step down regulator as that would be too much voltage. This is a battery for a radio that has a built in regulator, so, we don't need to worry about a regulator as the radio will take the power out of the battery to its built in threshold for NiCd of 10.6 volts. This is well above the damage threshold of LiPo of 9.0 volts. The Protection Circuit Board (PCB) shown below will not let it be charged over 12.6 volts (using proper charger) or go under 9.0 volts in use. Please note this example is a simple example because we are not wiring in a regulator. If we did add a regulator we would wire a charging circuit and a powering circuit, so, that the charger had a direct path to the PCB. 
Our batteries hit the circuit board with their leads so I have shortened them and tinned them with solder
I cut some leads using some old speaker wire I will never use. Many times you will have severe space limitations and need to use a very high quality wire that is small but can still carry the current. The radio is very light draw so a good time to get rid of the speaker wire.
My extra room is too the right side so I make the leads go that way. We are going to make layers of cells at this point and the negative for this stack is our B- for the array. I can't heat shrink these end with the leads going in this direction, so, I am taping them with two layers.
Here where it gets weird if you haven't dealt with LiPo before. Connect the positive of the bottom battery to the negative of the next battery and bring a lead out from this. Depending on your PCB this is either B1 or B2 and only your instructions will tell you. This PCB is different than any other I have seen as B1 is next to B-
Finish the top layer and you have B-, B1, B2 and B+
Tin the terminals on the PCB with solder
Wire to the appropriate terminals. I start with B- and then add B1 (in this case, most of the time B2) and then test for current to make sure I am getting one batteries worth, because, if you don't it is wired wrong. Then connect the next lead and test and so on.
Then solder leads onto the main PCB out + and -. Try to be consistent, I always use the red wire or the marked wire as positive. At this point the PCB should be dead to current across the out leads, but, don't push fate and keep them apart.
Solder the leads into the batteries output circuit. The PCB will not come alive in theory until you hook it up to a smart charger and it gets that current. I have done so many of these I have no fear on this setup, but, this may be the time you need to figure out how the connect that smart charger to make sure it is all wired up correctly
Some foam to control rattling
Glue, clamp and connect the smart charger. I 3D printed this attachment for the smart charger and you may just want to cut the smart charger wire and splice it into your system. 
A caution on this, you may know what is what but employees do not care as much. I have made very sure that the systems cannot be interchanged so that someone cannot hookup a NiMh charger or something. I can't stress this enough as that WILL cause a fire. At this point all we have is LiPo. Do you also notice that my test bench ended up with the first print of the charging adapter as i just couldn't put it in service, LOL
Parts used in this
PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/PCB-for-11.1V-Li-Ion-Battery-Pack-4.0A-limit-----PCM-L03S04-559.aspx
Batteries https://www.batteryspace.com/polymer-li-ion-cell-3-7v-2000mah-605060-2c-7-4wh-4-0a-rate---ul-listed-un38-3-passed-ndgr.aspx
Charger https://www.batteryspace.com/smartcharger08afor111vli-ionpolymerrechargeablebatterypack--ceullisted.aspx
Good parts to know about
Very small regulator 200mA max http://www.getfpv.com/electronics/voltage-regulators/12v-step-up-step-down-voltage-regulator.html
Bigger regulator 2 amp http://www.dpcav.com/xcart/Adjustable-Voltage-Regulator-1-35V-SEPIC-Type.html
Please feel free to add
Norm, I was going to respond this Am and forgot.
Top notch work! I can see the attention to detail in your work. You should consider re-celling batteries for other surveyors...
There is a market for after market battery upgrades on some of the high end gold metal detectors. A few people are selling kits and they are very popular...and expensive.
I was just getting the old mothballed stuff up and useful. I actually never intended on coming up with my own battery system, but, I found it kind of fun. If you need a functioning Geod 600 or Trimble 5600 they are very awesome. The big battery would be an excellent choice for any instrument or GPS though. The little orange batteries have got to be hard to find at this point, but, I had a stack of them on the shelf. If I had to do it with the black radio batteries I would have used the 5 amp cells and it would weigh more and last forever with the pole battery in use.
3D printing charging adapters and cases was fun and I enjoyed it. That is the part I could get dragged into, re-celling is more like um,... work. I am still laughing at using a disc golf disc for the top of pole battery and not printing a top, but, it is a very pliable bumper and saves a few bucks.
I will certainly help anyone that has any questions to the best of my ability
To beat this to death, this is a link where I posted to add a regulator and a off / on switch after the PCB was already wired. https://surveyorconnect.com/index.php?mode=thread&id=270808. The only thing I do differently with larger batteries with a regulator is tape off everything around it and leave the regulator out in the open. Don't tape up the regulator is what I am saying, as you will create a heat related shutdown. Instrument or GPS current create noticeable heat in higher step up or step down situations
What is the cost of supplies? Thanks for posting! Jp
Old case sitting on shelf = $0
3 LiPo's 2.0 amp = $23.97
Old speaker wire = $0
PCB = $6.05
3S Smart charger = $24.95 (I don't have as many chargers as batteries, though)
Total = $54.97 plus some shipping
We have been getting 1.5 days out of these radio batteries running the radio and the 360° prism. I don't have the data yet on how long they last now that we are powering the 360° at the 360°. I know the 360° draw is around 175mA, so, I am guessing I will find out two things the crews day and a half is exaggerated slightly and my 175mA might be a little high. It does show very little draw from the radio and since they were first designed with 700mA batteries and went for days on them, I am guessing these will go forever. This particular battery is from a Geodimeter 4402 I think and it will work on the Geodimeter 600 series which of course is the same as a Trimble re-badge (5600)
Thanks! I have a robotic 5600 sitting in my garage that I don't use. I just knew when I went to use it I would have to spend 400$ on a new internal battery. And now not so much on the instrument radio batteries. Thanks, Jp
I have some worn out S6 batteries, so, I cracked them open to have a look.?ÿ They are six cells that are 3.7v, 2.2 amp, 18.3mm dia and 65mm long.?ÿ Basically they are 18650 cells.?ÿ I have some 3.0 amp 18650's from another project, but, they are button cells and do not have tabs.?ÿ You have to be very brave?ÿ(or stupid) to solder a tab onto a button cell.?ÿ I found some Samsung 18650's that are 2.6 amps that will fit, so, I guess that I am re-celling and not buying new.?ÿ As Trimble goes these batteries are not that bad at $150.00 retail as it will cost a little less than $50.00 to re-cell.?ÿ Their ratios are usually much worse than 3:1.
LiFePO4 are a good choice these days and should be safer than LiPo. I run some pre made external packs from Bioenno Power and see they do have cells too. You may be able to rebuild with these:
https://www.bioennopower.com/collections/lifepo4-lithium-iron-phosphate-cells
BE AWARE OF THE CHARGING REQUIREMENTS IF SWAPPING FROM OEM CHEMISTRY!!!!!!!!!!!
I have found that LiPo are safe, as we do not use them the way the RC industry does.?ÿ We don't routinely crash them or charge and discharge at very high rates.?ÿ With routine surveying use, I have packs that are right at three years old and no issues.?ÿ With that said, if I see a dropped / cracked pack, I take it apart to inspect.?ÿ Is LiPo as safe as LiFePO4, no they are not, I am not kidding myself.?ÿ It is a balancing act though, as LiFePO4 are heavy for the amperage they produce.?ÿ Take a current 18650 LiFePO4 cell and it is 3.2 volts, 1100mAh and 38 grams ( https://tinyurl.com/ycuw7th8), while a typical 18650 cell is 3.7 volts, 2600mAh and 47 grams ( https://tinyurl.com/ybbht6uv).?ÿ Higher amps examples of both exist, I took what were more moderate working cells for samples
Interesting fact became apparent during the re-cell of the S6 batteries.?ÿ Their PCB or protection board has a lower cut off set around 11.0 volts.?ÿ Basically they are li-ion cell being limited to NiCd lower levels.?ÿ A 3 cell li-ion should have a cut off around 9.0 volts so half of the voltage is wasted by design.?ÿ Did some voltage tests and out of four S6 batteries I got 2.4Ah, 2.5Ah, 2.7Ah and 2.7Ah out of cells labeled as 4.4Ah because of the 11.0 volt cut off.?ÿ The S6 batteries do not have the room to place a regulator to get the lost voltage, so, unless I printed a new case that could use flat cells and a normal PCB and a regulator, I am not going to get the lost voltage.?ÿ No way worth the effort when the batteries are $150.?ÿ My guess is that the instruments were designed around NiCd way back when and Trimble did not place a regulator inside the instrument to capture all of the energy.?ÿ More than likely there were some NiMh packs released early in the instrument life cycle and having a 9.0 volt cut off in the instrument would have caused definite issues by killing those un-regulated packs
But capacity remaining isn't linear to the indicated voltage.
By the time you discharge to around 3.6 volts per cell, you've used about 80% of the rated capacity. Multiple discharges below 3.6 will likely?ÿ shorten the overall battery life. Also, the voltage sorta falls off a cliff once you start getting below 3.6. Personally, I'll only take LiPos below 3.5-3.6 volts only in urgent situations, knowing I've probably spent one of the battery's nine lives.
Tom
I never said capacity remaining was linear, that's why I tested it.?ÿ For one thing voltage fall is greater in older used cells.?ÿ Regardless, I think you are missing my point.?ÿ 11.0 volts is just too high a cut off, I do agree with you on taking it down to 9.0 volts, but, there is a lot of amperage between 11.0 and 10.0 and then it usually falls very quickly to 9.0.?ÿ If you are saying it is detrimental to longevity to take them down to 10.0, then I don't agree with you.?ÿ At an 11 volt cut off you ARE limiting how much you get out of a battery li-ion or lipo battery as their base voltage is 11.1 volts.?ÿ
I just looked up the specs for the PCB's cut off voltage in the instrument batteries we have been using for years.?ÿ They are all 2.4v per cell which IMHO is way too low.?ÿ In every case the are routed to the instrument through a regulator stepping the voltage to 13.6.?ÿ The regulator is going to go through the voltage below 10 very quickly stepping it to 13.6, but, they work and have for more than three years used every work day.
Just replacing the pictures from the imgtree.net that seems to be gone now: