Where do you buy these?
So you have to pre-weld those caps on and I gotta ask what do you do when you are in rocky ground and have to beat that rebar over to get back on the spot, won't you damage that disk?
Either hit the rebar below disc or use the Lixie.?ÿ I've only installed 15 so far and one needed the side treatment.?ÿ If you use a steel sledge it will damage the disc.?ÿ The Lixie won't damage the disc, but if possible (disc out of ground far enough) whack the rebar below it.
@LRDay That is a very nice survey marker... and a nice Lixie hammer too. I have one I got a dead blow hammer at the automotive supply store, and it doesn't weigh much or have a long handle. I am saving up for the Lixie. :- )
That's a 200H Lixie.?ÿ 56 Oz.?ÿ If you buy it right about $60.
Where do you buy these?
Prototype. Not for sale yet, working out the process of manufacturing and marketing.?ÿ Don't know whether they can be sold in large enough volume to make it pay.?ÿ I have 400 of them for my own use.?ÿ I been working it out on and off for three years now.?ÿ Frost won't push these off the top of a rebar.?ÿ Animals likely won't chew them up. Not damaged as much by fire as plastic, brass or aluminum.?ÿ Shouldn't rust to much (might depend on the soil).?ÿ Extremely durable and as easy to install as a bar and cap.
@ LRDAY
"found
boundary marker being3/4in rebar with aluminum cap marked2018 byLS 174871"fixed it
I agree with you on not calling it a boundary marker, however in this case I just might since it is stamped on the dics. If it has a Cap I usually never give a diameter size. I just say Capped Iron Rod, with the Surveyor's # or the Company whichever is stamped on the Cap and the color of the Cap.?ÿ
?ÿ
Where do you buy these?
Prototype. Not for sale yet, working out the process of manufacturing and marketing.?ÿ Don't know whether they can be sold in large enough volume to make it pay.?ÿ I have 400 of them for my own use.?ÿ I been working it out on and off for three years now.?ÿ Frost won't push these off the top of a rebar.?ÿ Animals likely won't chew them up. Not damaged as much by fire as plastic, brass or aluminum.?ÿ Shouldn't rust to much (might depend on the soil).?ÿ Extremely durable and as easy to install as a bar and cap.
I will stick with mine. The stainless costs about $0.75 each.
I had guessed at the size so I ammend my quote. Every part should be mentioned.
Found 5/8 inch rebar with welded stainless steel disk stamped Boundary Marker 2018 LS 174871
Good monument,?ÿ I like the effort you put in making it
Where do you buy these?
Prototype. Not for sale yet, working out the process of manufacturing and marketing.?ÿ Don't know whether they can be sold in large enough volume to make it pay.?ÿ I have 400 of them for my own use.?ÿ I been working it out on and off for three years now.?ÿ Frost won't push these off the top of a rebar.?ÿ Animals likely won't chew them up. Not damaged as much by fire as plastic, brass or aluminum.?ÿ Shouldn't rust to much (might depend on the soil).?ÿ Extremely durable and as easy to install as a bar and cap.
I will stick with mine. The stainless costs about $0.75 each.
So where do you get a ss cap all marked like that for $0.75?
Where do you buy these?
https://www.bathey.com/rebar-caps/stainless-steel-rebar-caps/stamped
These things are badass. Down to the last handful of my original 100, which reminds me to order another 500 tomorrow...
Where do you buy these?
https://www.bathey.com/rebar-caps/stainless-steel-rebar-caps/stamped
These things are badass. Down to the last handful of my original 100, which reminds me to order another 500 tomorrow...
How heavy are those??ÿ Stainless steel is expensive,?ÿ Must be fairly thin sheet.?ÿ Will they take any abuse??ÿ How hard is it to pull one off?
I get them from Bathey. They are suprisingly quite sturdy. The lettering is lasered on and so far seems very wear resistance. The stem has indent tabs that lock onto the rebar and you have to work hard to get it off. Frost heave will not push them off.
My only gripe is they do not have a "center" punch mark so I have to do that.
I need to order some for Alabama.
I use the plastic ones if I am resetting a corner and for bulk corner sets like a subdivision. I try to reserve the metal one for if create a new lot.
Obviously, what I'm doing will not compete price wise with plastic caps or similar.?ÿ No intention of doing that at all.
I'm using 1/4 inch stainless steel securely attached to the rebar.?ÿ
The lettering is deeply engraved and will never fade or wear off.
They will be from 1-1/2 inch to 4 inches diameter. Individual custom marking on a piece by piece basis will be available (like BLM section corners, ROW markers, serial numbered lot corners).
BUT, if there is not a market for this, won't happen.
Where do you buy these?
https://www.bathey.com/rebar-caps/stainless-steel-rebar-caps/stamped
These things are badass. Down to the last handful of my original 100, which reminds me to order another 500 tomorrow...
How heavy are those??ÿ Stainless steel is expensive,?ÿ Must be fairly thin sheet.?ÿ Will they take any abuse??ÿ How hard is it to pull one off?
they're not aircraft carrier-thick, but they're stainless.?ÿ which is to say- my standard practice of setting is to drive the rod to about 2" from grade, check it, drive it to (approx.) grade (depending upon what the ground is going to let me do).?ÿ check it again.?ÿ it's only when i know i'm within a 1/4-1/2 inch from the rod being at it's final place do i bang that cap on.?ÿ and i'm hitting them with a 5 pound sledge, no sort of prophylactic between surfaces, and they've taken that like a champ- no bending, deformation, marring.?ÿ after it's in i take the last shot on it.
Would you get a reaction between the stainless and the rebar? Dissimilar metals?
I just talked to Bathey and Curt (or Kirk) said they use 304 Stainless and no liner. The stainless caps have been produced for 5 years and they haven't seen an issue with galvanic corrosion. I suppose I'll put my order in and try some.
Jeezus!
What state or you in LR? That is an awful lot of LS's.?ÿ
JA, PLS SoCal
LS 8675309
they're not aircraft carrier-thick, but they're stainless.?ÿ which is to say- my standard practice of setting is to drive the rod to about 2" from grade, check it, drive it to (approx.) grade (depending upon what the ground is going to let me do).?ÿ check it again.?ÿ it's only when i know i'm within a 1/4-1/2 inch from the rod being at it's final place do i bang that cap on.?ÿ and i'm hitting them with a 5 pound sledge, no sort of prophylactic between surfaces, and they've taken that like a champ- no bending, deformation, marring.?ÿ after it's in i take the last shot on it.
I use a small dead blow hammer to put the cap on. I suppose you could equally use the hammer handle to avoid lugging around more tools. I find that I do have to put a very small bevel on the rebar, very small.
Utah.
?ÿ
The DOPL (license agency) numbers all licenses of every kind one after another.?ÿ I think a new LS today would have a number in the 500-600,000 range.?ÿ There is another code that identifies the profession.?ÿ 2201 and 2202 are surveyors and engineers.?ÿ Just the goofy way they do it.
I'm not sure but think there is maybe 5-600 active land surveyors licensed in Utah.?ÿ Some are out of state multi state people.