Yesterday was nice day to remonument an 1857 GLO stone. Surveyors have been using the top of the stone which had an iron pipe on the south side as a witness. We tied out the position of the stone, dug a deep hole, set the iron pipe directly below the position of the stone, repaired the stone, set the stone over the iron pipe, set a MAG nail in the top of the stone, set a concrete memorial on the north side of the stone, set a new iron pipe with 2" aluminum cap over the MAG nail. (Triple monumentation). Then tied out the corner location, wrote a history of what was done and obtained GPS position.
The stone is a hard gray sandstone with pockets of soft red sandstone in it. This is what makes the holes. You can see one large piece of red sandstone in the photo. Since the stone was broken, I pinned in on both sides with MAG nails and also siliconed the two pieces together and around the entire seam before going back into the hole upright.
Nice work all around....what kind of drill did you use?
18volt DeWalt hammer drill.
:good: :good:
Nice work and ingenuity! Can honestly say that is the first time I have ever seen a stone repaired with Mag-nails and wire. But now that I think about it, have I ever seen a stone repaired?
Scott
More GLO Stone Repairs
First, I apologize for not knowing how to spell "Repair" correctly in my first post. I am still scratching my head how that happened.
Here are some more GLO stone repairs I have done. Sometimes I had to bring them back to the hospital instead of doing field surgery. I've done others with baling wire. Not too proud of the duct tape one. That was many years ago.
Some of my predecessors here thought it was a good idea to use a jackhammer drill to place a pin in a hole in the stone instead of lowering them like I do.
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Thought it was common practice when upgrading a GLO monument to set the new at the proper location and to place the recovered GLO monument alongside. I would have been using the pipe as the corner location unless there was reliable evidence otherwise. Your repair work I like, you are preserving original evidence while all the parts are there, new fence and all may get scattered.
jud
Jud, that is common procedure in many places to move the stones, but for many years around here the pipes were merely driven next to the stones to only aid in finding them. The key is documenting what is being done. I hold to the never move an original government stone mentality, so that is why I prefer to lower them in the same horizontal position. If the notes do not clearly state what was actually done, I like to hold the position of the stone over the pipe. In the example of my original post, some surveyors were using the stone and others were using the pipe. They were 0.4' apart. Now there is only one horizontal position.
I think as a reminder that BLM had the policy back in the 50's or so, to simply set a iron post alongside the found stone and they really did not worry about the so-called 0.04'! It led to confusion as to what was the actual corner and that practice was discontinued in the 60's.
The practice then was to set the iron post where the stone was and bury the stone alongside.
I suppose that still is the BLM policy?
Keith
>set a iron post alongside the found stone and they really did not worry about the so-called 0.04'
0.04' huh? You guys out west must have really small stones 😀
James, I was referring to the distance from the iron post to the stone!
If it was within a link, that is fine.
Keith
GLO Stone Repair
"The key is documenting what is being done."
:good: 😀
>I hold to the never move an original government stone mentality...
I understand your position, but in the past I have usually replaced the stone with a "modern monument" and buried the stone alongside. Sometimes I have not replaced original monuments in certain cases, sadly however, in Idaho we are no longer allowed even that small amount of discretion.
IC 55-1608(3): When nonmetallic corner monuments were set in a survey conducted by an agency of the United States government, the corner location shall be remonumented with a monument conforming to the provisions of section 54-1227, Idaho Code, and shall be surmounted with a cap of such material and size that can be permanently and legibly marked as prescribed by the manual of surveying instructions issued by the United States department of the interior, bureau of land management, including the license number of the professional land surveyor responsible for placing the monument. Monuments shall be marked such that measurements between them may be made to the nearest one-tenth (0.1) foot.
Brian...
"Monuments shall be marked such that measurements between them may be made to the nearest one-tenth (0.1) foot."
What does that mean?
Brian...
Punch the cap with up to a 5 hundredths diameter dimple or use at least a 5/8" diameter cap?
Brian...
I was tying to figure that one out also.
Jim, Dave, Leon
> I was tying to figure that one out also.
Well, that has been asked several times, and from what I understand it merely means that you must put an "x" or a dimple on the cap. Evidently at some time in the past there was a really serious and quite widespread problem of large caps/monuments being set without some kind of mark on them and some surveyors just couldn't quite figure out how to make precise measurements without "x"'s or dimples. It apparently was such a serious matter that we needed a state law to put an end to this dangerous threat to the public safety/welfare. Go figure.
I'll keep the other sarcastic comments to myself right now. 😉
Jim, Dave, Leon
Gee whiz,
And I did not have dimples on all of my brass caps that I set!
Keith
Jim, Dave, Leon
I dimple the cap just so I can make multiple observations to the same point. I still mark it up per the BLM manual (with a line or cross) but lines get a dimple in the center. Obviously a cross (such as a section corner) doesn't need a dimple.
Most of the monuments I am dealing with a couple of tenths is pretty much irrelevant though.
Who cares exactly where the line goes through the 5' diameter tree?
Jim, Dave, Leon
I'd just use the "center" of the cap. Usually there a little lean after the years so you must decide whether it was set that way or needs straightening. Then if the cap is a replacement of a stone how do you (or how did they) decide where the point was "exactly." And then they only recorded to the nearest link (or I've seen 1/2 link) in the notes. But I suppose with our modern tools we need to get it under a tenth so I do punch new caps I set in the line for quarter corners or at the center of the cross (or tee). If for nothing else it makes a nice place to set the end of your rod in. Maybe it's good that the statute gives you a tenth instead of a hundredth, that sort of covers the 1-2 cm slop in GPS measurements.
Jim, Dave, Leon
It seems that a lot of "measurers" don't understand that there is no such thing as a perfect distance. Never has been and never will be.
