What are people using to countersink their shiners? Is their a solution for a standard 1-1/2" stamped washer other than a $299 Bernsten bit? I am looking for something that doesn't require me to chisel out the interior from a masonry hole cutter.
Scott B.
I'm looking for something too...watching.
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Not perfect, but a 35mm hole saw, then 18mm hole saw, two or three hammer whacks to crush ridges and you have a decent counter sink for an 1 1/4 disk.
Perhaps this is an opportunity for http://o-tags.com/&apos ;">O-tag to expand it's product line.
Have you considered buying just a 1-1/2" or 2" SDS bit to drill the counterbore? Using the system I do, I'd drill the 3/8-inch pilot hole for the spike first and then follow up with a 1-1/2" or 2" hole drilled just far enough down to set both washer and spike below the grade of the surface. As you can see below, the cost of a high-quality Bosch 1-1/2" bit is quite reasonable.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-HC5091-2-Inch-16-Inch-21-Inch/dp/B0000TZY2A
I have looked and looked. Aside from a $300 bit from Berntsen or similar tunneling bit, the closest solution I have found is what Kent uses (above) - a simple 1-1/2" masonry bit. I found one on Amazon for $42 by Morris Products (wonder about the quality vs. Milwaukee, Bosch, DeWalt).
Okay, am I missing something? Where do you find this $300 bit on the Berntsen site? For quite a while I have used the 1-1/8" copper plugs with the $125 bit for setting control and monuments in concrete. The fact is that the surrounding counties require the use of the plug when setting corners in concrete. Recently I have started to use the plugs in AC for control that I would like to stick around for some time. When I have to set an aluminium cap, like Kent, I use a core drill to reses the 1-1/2" cap, The core bit was fairly cheap at the local concrete supply house. I would think the pilot hole might be a bit large for a mag nail though.
In Indiana for property corners, we have to have company name and number or land surveyor name and number on caps and tags. So for conc./asphalt, I would like to use stamped washer/tag/shiner with a 2" PK. The process I want is a 3/16" pilot hole for concrete (no pilot for asphalt) and a 1/4" deep hole at 1-1/2" diameter for the tag. This gets the PK head below a snow plow blade.
To countersink the cap I second John's approach. I use an 1å?" or 2" core-bit from Amazon for about 40 bucks. There is an adapter for a drill or you can use a cordless grinder. Both work fast. Usually core down about 1" then a couple hammer shots with a miners pick to finish it up. Set with anchor cement (expands slightly to fill the hole). About as permanent as it gets.
Scott Bordenet, post: 398315, member: 10097 wrote: What are people using to countersink their shiners? Is their a solution for a standard 1-1/2" stamped washer other than a $299 Bernsten bit? I am looking for something that doesn't require me to chisel out the interior from a masonry hole cutter.
Scott B.
12-lb sledge. It'll both make a dent and set it flush.
Scott Bordenet, post: 398410, member: 10097 wrote: In Indiana for property corners, we have to have company name and number or land surveyor name and number on caps and tags. So for conc./asphalt, I would like to use stamped washer/tag/shiner with a 2" PK. The process I want is a 3/16" pilot hole for concrete (no pilot for asphalt) and a 1/4" deep hole at 1-1/2" diameter for the tag. This gets the PK head below a snow plow blade.
We have the same identification requirements here but PKs are not an option. If it is in concrete it must be the plug or an iron rod in asphalt. You can get the plugs pre-stamped or blank so it works out great. And the $125 drill bit does a great job counter sinking. I only wish it had a stop cullet.