Holy Cow, post: 395907, member: 50 wrote: That's why it has been more than a couple of decades since I have operated one.
It's been a couple of decades for me. I spent a lot of time with a saw in the mountains, and I won't be disappointed if I never have to run one again. I remember one particular 16" Homelite that leaked oil, and by the end of the day my pant legs were soaked.
Here in Oz, we have a highly effective tool called The Red Steer.
Nothing beats it.
Tried it only once, never forgot the experience.
When as a young surveyor and faced with a mountain of Gorse, I called on it.
Wow. Smoke everywhere, devoured the gorse in no time. Took a bit of explaining later, but we got the job done.
I think rfc has the right idea, a bow saw. The bow saw weighs next to nothing, is cheap, always sharp, and very fast to cut medium sized branches. I have found that a bow saw and loppers work well together and I can cut line through dense laurel and such quit efficiently. The other benefits are, no gas & oil to carry, or batteries, and there is the safety issue, not may people get seriously injured with a bow saw. You might want to go for an 18" or 24" saw, a little faster to cut with but still easy to carry. I also carry a folding pruning saw (Stihl) with me for daily woods work.
T.W.
Tom Wilson, post: 395951, member: 247 wrote: I think rfc has the right idea, a bow saw. ...
I favor a little folding trim saw. Cuts just as well and fits into tighter spaces, takes up less space in the truck. Goes through a 2" branch pretty quick. Cutting 200' of line with arm power alone might get old.
I've used an electric Stihl (MS200?) in chain saw safety training. Women like it because "its so quiet!". Surveyors like it because its so "stealthy". 🙂 45 minute run time should get you through any nasty bushes, if not, you need a bulldozer or the electric backpack accessory that will give you 3 hours of run time!
I know we are from different parts of the world, there aren't any trees around here big enough to need a 18" blade on a chainsaw. LOL and as much as I don't like swinging an axe, a sharp axe sure works faster than using a bow saw on a mesquite tree.
Recipe:
2.4 gallons of gas. Buy NON ethanol, (but it STILL will have some ethanol)
Any time there is ethanol, there is WATER.
1 bottle of stihl pre mix oil.
1 tsp 30 wt oil
1/2 oz of Star-Tron.
The tsp of 30 wt oil does not burn... for the most part. It will make motor last forever.
The Star Tron, is an enzyme.
Makes the Ethanol and water go through.
Now, your chain saw will work. Only buy Stihl or husky.
I have a Stihl 180. Wrenchless adjuster.
Learn to sharpen chain.
N
We have been using pole saws (or limb saw) for over 6 years to cut line.
[GALLERY=media, 24]IMG_0643a by Joe W. Byrd posted Oct 19, 2016 at 1:57 PM[/GALLERY]
After having rotator cuff surgery on both shoulders, I had get mechanized! It took a little adjustment, but after we worked with them for a while, the crew members love them. We use the Redmax commercial brand (about 1.5 pounds lighter than the Stihl brand) and I have 2 of them that have been in service for over 6 years. We can run all day (8 - 10 hours) on a tank of gas, but do have to keep oil for the bar lube with us.
Thanks, all
I got a Stihl chain saw, like new except it's bugger to start - it has no compression release 🙁
Got brush cutters and hand saws and bush ax. Great Estwing 3/4 ax too. Need more reach sometimes.
I also have a "tree eater", a Stihl 210 weedeater with a saw blade on it. It's the cat's backside for major clearing though, trees up to 4" like nothing. Poison ivy patches - GONE. Buckthorn, gooseberry, and raspberry patches - GONE. May even be better with the chain saw attachment. But anything that long won't fit easily on an ATV.
No doubt gas is powerful, but it tends to annoy farmers.
A pole saw with a shorter pole than normal may work. 4 foot about right. With a decent "Woodzig" type blade they cut good enough for the other day, plus can nip through smaller stuff.
Brushless motors and modern batteries have increased the usefulness of these types of tools.
They are no longer something you would buy as a token effort to make you feel like your saving the planet. They appear to be actually useful.
Sure you wouldn't use one on a brushing contract, but to cut an occasional tree or large limb, it would work perfect.
My circular saw and drill are always ready to work after they have been sitting for a few months - don't know why a chainsaw battery would be any different.
Batteries are expensive - total investment is going to be more than for a quality gas operated saw, but there are other benefits.
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imaudigger, post: 396076, member: 7286 wrote: Brushless motors and modern batteries have increased the usefulness of these types of tools.
They are no longer something you would buy as a token effort to make you feel like your saving the planet. They appear to be actually useful.Sure you wouldn't use one on a brushing contract, but to cut an occasional tree or large limb, it would work perfect.
My circular saw and drill are always ready to work after they have been sitting for a few months - don't know why a chainsaw battery would be any different.Batteries are expensive - total investment is going to be more than for a quality gas operated saw, but there are other benefits.
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These look brilliant , Makita also have a brushless chain saw, uses 2 of their 18v batteries side by side in series. If you already have the battery system for the cordless drills and angle grinders, getting a cordless electric chainsaw that runs off those same batteries is the way to go.
Monte, post: 395984, member: 11913 wrote: I know we are from different parts of the world, there aren't any trees around here big enough to need a 18" blade on a chainsaw. LOL and as much as I don't like swinging an axe, a sharp axe sure works faster than using a bow saw on a mesquite tree.
It's not necessarily the size of the tree - we get the 18-20" bars so that we don't have to bend over as far when cutting brush/trees off at/near ground level. We keep the cut line low so that we don't leave a bunch of stobs sticking up - travel is better and you won't get skewered later.
JKinAK, post: 396203, member: 7219 wrote: We keep the cut line low so that we don't leave a bunch of stobs sticking up - travel is better and you won't get skewered later.
I worked on a USFS job once that had an insufferable inspector. He walked our first finished line with me and pointed out every 1/8" diameter cedar "sapling" that was over 12" tall, telling me I had to cut all of them down so that the line would remain clear in the future. We lost a ton of money on that job, but you could have ridden a tricycle along those lines when we were done.
[USER=10]@Jim Frame[/USER]
The USFS had their summer interns clear line with only the dirt remaining.
After all the brush was cut they cleaned up with a fire rake.
Hmmm, I already have one of these: 
Maybe mated with this:
My helper always forgets to put the support handle on power tools and springs his wrist and hand because of it.
I remind him now..............
My wife got me a Poulan 18 inch 5 years ago. After the first tank I started buying premixed tool fuel with stabilizer addative. The saw sits several months at a time but fires up flawlessly.
The places we camp you better have a good working saw. Finding yourself on the wrong side of a 30 inch dead fall with a bow saw is no fun. As for work, haven't needed one in a while...
What chainsaws are REALLY for:
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Nate The Surveyor, post: 401068, member: 291 wrote: What chainsaws are REALLY for:
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I've liked you since I met you on line years ago - know I know why! :grinning::grinning::grinning: