I need to figure out an easy gate design that I can build for an 18' wide entrance. Currently (and into the future, I presume) two stone pillars exist on each side of the drive 18' center to center.
I'd like the support post to behind the posts, as well as the closing mechanism. My intent is to make it remotely controlled in the future.
The intent is to build a single gate that spans the 18', is made of wood (because this is a historical property), and be balanced and easy to swing.
I. like any other surveyor, can over design anything, lol, but I know that there are folks on this board that deal with this kind of issue on a much more regular basis than I do so, any ideas? What would be the best way to do this?
Thanks,
Dtp
foggyidea, post: 426939, member: 155 wrote: I need to figure out an easy gate design that I can build for an 18' wide entrance. Currently (and into the future, I presume) two stone pillars exist on each side of the drive 18' center to center.
I'd like the support post to behind the posts, as well as the closing mechanism. My intent is to make it remotely controlled in the future.
The intent is to build a single gate that spans the 18', is made of wood (because this is a historical property), and be balanced and easy to swing.
I. like any other surveyor, can over design anything, lol, but I know that there are folks on this board that deal with this kind of issue on a much more regular basis than I do so, any ideas? What would be the best way to do this?
Thanks,
Dtp
Keeping vehicles out only, or animals also? You can have a more simple barrier gate if it's only for vehicles.
Your biggest problem, around here; would be getting a permit...
foggyidea, post: 426939, member: 155 wrote: The intent is to build a single gate that spans the 18', is made of wood (because this is a historical property), and be balanced and easy to swing.
Is wood your preference or is it a requirement? I was always under the impression yÛªall Northerners used wrought iron as gates/fences.
These are 16Ûª column face to face but dual swing. Getting ÛÏmechanizedÛ next week for remote control and IP cameras.
Keep us updated on your progress with the new home! 😎
BTW that small white thingy on the lower portion of the left column is a "Driveway Doorbell" that chimes in the house when something/someone enters.
Has the 'Olde England' feel
The alternative is a rolling gate.
Would be fun to build.
Most wooden poles 18+ feet long will not always stay straight and will need to be adjusted at some time or more often for it to swing open and shut and come to rest in the same position for a long period time.
A used and weathered power pole will have that rustic and antique look and hold shape very well.
My preference would be a gate that rises like a RR crossing gate.
Study the design of a flagpole that will pivot and lay down for maintenance and rest in a groove atop a similar looking support on the other side of the drive.
A counter weight can be added to the short end.
Whatever style you desire will require a sturdy pivot arm.
I've never seen a wooden gate 18' wide. Don't see how it would ever keep from sagging or drooping from the weight of the wood. If the hinges were mounted to a tall telephone pole type post with cabling to the top, and the gate made out of some lightweight lumber, maybe. Would still be hard to make it stay straight.
Maybe something like the first one here would work if the ground is level, post taller, and brace longer.
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/device/devices8.html
The Divine Bovine might have something in mind.
Don't forget to leave room for the snow...always good to plan for a bad storm. The cape is good "most" of the time but sometimes you guys get it worse than the mainlanders. ÷¼
Rebuilt a section of fence and gate between my driveway and backyard when I bought this house last year. It was previously pedestrian only. I needed it wide enough to get my boat out of the driveway and into the backyard. I was worried about the length of the gate on the right and its potential to sag. I found a spring loaded wheel assembly and attached it to the far end. So far so good. Not likely the gate design you are looking for. But the supporting wheel may give you some ideas for your design. I still need to trim the post to the right and stain it to match the rest of the fence. 
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I saw this one on my bike ride this morning so I took a pic of it.
They type in a code I think to make it open.
I would try some architectural salvage yards. I would let my fingers do the walking and clicking to see if there is something out there for purchase.
If not something simple. Wood looks nice but metal is a better gate material.
2cts
I'd probably consider designing a gate with a welded steel frame in a pattern that is similar to that of the timber farm gates that would be period-correct. The problem you have with gates that span 9 ft. and that some unknown person may want to climb (such as possibly yourself in the event of a power failure or other malfunction) is making the gate strong enough not to sag.
Here's one version of a steel gate that incorporates the forms of wooden gates:
Making a heavy timber version of a period-correct farm gate would also be an option, and likely a less expensive one. The advantage to a timber gate would be that it would be probably easier to get approval for it and it would be something that probably would cost less. There would be the matter of connecting the members with what would appear to be a period-correct method, such as mortise and tenon. This is most likely a problem for which there is a good prototype in the Brewster area.
After doing a bit more searching, I found this company making what they call the "Oxford Range Gate" out of mortise and tenon joined spruce for a reasonable price.
http://www.hooverfence.com/wood/wood-gates/five-bar-gates.htm
The Cedar Spit Rail Gates with a steel frame behind them might be a good choice as well:
The other thing to think about would be how to conceal the keypad for a gate opener. You yourselves can use the "clicker" to open it up, but there are others who will need to punch in the code. A stone pillar with the keypad set in it would work admirably (and would provide a place for the house number, too). A possibly cheaper option would be to make the pillar cast-in-place concrete, but with the formwork such that the end result resembles a stone pillar, complete with mouldings and fluting. Colorants to the concrete would probably be a better choice than painting it, but paint would be an option.
[USER=155]@foggyidea[/USER] that's a very wide opening for any gate. Timber, as others said bring inherent issues for such width.
I posted an intriguing opening device driven by water.
Whilst a tad crude it could easily be made more 'suburban'.
https://surveyorconnect.com/community/threads/old-barns.328147/page-2#post-411093
It worked well.
Could you have twin 9 footers?
One opening would get majority of traffic through. Or if both must be opened their's excellent more expensive opening systems.
I'd give mightymoe's the tick. Looks good
Richard, post: 427163, member: 833 wrote: [USER=155]@foggyidea[/USER] that's a very wide opening for any gate. Timber, as others said bring inherent issues for such width.
I posted an intriguing opening device driven by water.
Whilst a tad crude it could easily be made more 'suburban'.
https://surveyorconnect.com/community/threads/old-barns.328147/page-2#post-411093
It worked well.
Could you have twin 9 footers?
One opening would get majority of traffic through. Or if both must be opened their's excellent more expensive opening systems.
I'd give mightymoe's the tick. Looks good
I think that the gate necessarily has to be divided into two parts. Two eight-foot gates swung posts inside the rock pillars would do admirably. The remaining aesthetic problems include how to somehow minimize the effect of the electric gate opener and its appurtenances that tend to spoil what is otherwise the period-correct effect of the gate, both coming and going. It may be that just painting the gate actuator and associated equipment with a color that doesn't shout "modernity" would be good enough. I'd have to see it on the ground to know for certain, though.
If I were to ask the spirit of my ancestor William Brewster, who stepped off the Mayflower in 1620 and after whom the town of Brewster, MA where foggyconcept resides, my guess would be that he would prefer something that did not appear to be the work of witches.
Kent McMillan, post: 427171, member: 3 wrote: ...If I were to ask the spirit of my ancestor William Brewster, who stepped off the Mayflower in 1620 and after whom the town of Brewster, MA where foggyconcept resides, my guess would be that he would prefer something that did not appear to be the work of witches.
I guess our genetic family paths have crossed in the past Kent. Seems as though your ancestor William Brewster was a shipmate on the Mayflower with my 11th. great grandfather Thomas Williams. A twisted series of events, but my family tree come from his daughter's children. Williams made the voyage alone. His daughter died in England and her son eventually came to the continent at a later date. Williams himself perished the first or second winter at Plymouth. My records show a death of Feb. 1692. Hard to believe I descended from anyone with Puritanical fiber.
You figure they played a hand or two of cards?
