12V DC to 220V AC Power Inverter

I don't remember all the particulars, but my first boss had two batteries with the inverter wired directly to the second battery. The first one supposedly charged the second one while driving and the inverter would only get power from the second one so no worries about getting stranded with a dead battery.

As for the other details, I'm not much help.

12V DC to 110V AC Power Inverter

I doubt you could afford a 220V inverter.

Have as short a cord as possible, take a variety of lengths.

Cigarette lighter size will not do.

I have a 750 watt inverter with battery clamps.

If I use my 11.5 amp chainsaw it immediately pops the breaker.

If I am careful and do not hog it I can work with my 7 amp chainsaw and only occasionaly pop the breaker. I will be looking for a trim saw this Christmas because it would be cheaper than a 1200 watt converter. It I had a 1200 watt inverter it would be hard wired to the battery.

750 watts should take care of a 3/8" drill.

Wally World or Tractor Supply.

Paul in PA

PS, I run my vehicle when I use it.

I have a device that plugs into my cig lighter in my truck that runs regular 110 volt household devices. To date I have only used it for my computer and have no idea how it would work with a drill.

I personally use a small generator. Then I don't have to worry about batteries etc., plus, I can carry the generator wherever I want to go, I'm not tied down by a cord from the truck.

But if you want an inverter, you can get one from Harbor Freight. They are not known for their quality, but their prices are cheap, plus for a small additional fee ($20 or $30) you can buy a 2 year no questions asked warranty. And make sure you keep your vehicle running when you use it, otherwise it won't start back up when you're ready to go.

You probably want one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-watt-continuous-4000-watt-peak-power-inverter-95596.html

This one would need to be hard wired to your battery...kind of a hassle, thats why I chose to go the generator route.

The honda eu2000ia generator is excellent, and quiet, though it is pricey brand new ($900 or so). I'm sure you could find a used generator on craigslist for $200 or $300. I use a rotary hammer and a small canister vacuum at the same time and this generator has no problem handling it. Your rotary hammer will be louder than the generator.

I also have a 750 watt that you have to hook up to a battery direct. I googled and found a 1/2 drill uses 750 watts, but I'm not sure if that is surge watts or not. A lot of things have a intial surge when you start them, and then the draw goes down. My guess is that a 750 watt invertor would do it. The ones you plug into a lighter socket are only going to do low power stuff, like laptops, cell phones and such.

All add that the 750 watt one I have cost about $75, and it hooks up to the battery with clips, so you don't have to hard wire it.

You don't need 220 volts for an electric drill.

Take the AMPS that the electric drill draws and multiply by 117 and you will have the watts required to power the device.

I'm guessing 600-800 watts would do it for a 3/8" chuck type drill.

this is the one I have.

850 watt inverter

Another easier option would be to buy a cordless electric drill (18 volts or higher). You can usually get a package deal on a drill, charger and batteries for less than $100 at the big box stores.

My Inverter is 6.52 Amps

6.52 amps * 115 volts = 750 watts.

My chain saw is 7 amps, easy does it and no problems.

Paul in PA

My Inverter is 6.52 Amps

That would be marginal at best, remember that you need to allow for the heat generated when using a 100 ft cord. Also there is start up peaks and running under a load. I would add 25% to that. I would use a 3000 watt unit hard wired to a second battery, be able to use it for higher draws then and it would hande the heat better from long under load use of the drill.
jud

12V DC to 220V AC Power Inverter _ Perry

I do have a cordless that we use a lot but the battery does not hold up as long as I would like. A lot of the drilled points are in the street or curb so it would be pretty easy to just position the van where we have to drill.

Yesterday we set two RR spikes..My gosh! Those are hard to punch through 4" of AC even with pilot holes drilled. After placing those two I decided to get a good inverter setup and maybe a beefier drill that would handle a 1/2" bit to get better pilot holes for the spikes.

Though they are tough to set, once in they will last until the paving is ripped up and if they get covered up a good pipe finder will scream when you get within a few feet.

12V DC to 220V AC Power Inverter _ Perry

R/R spikes make good monuments in asphalt. Their problem, if not punch marked is what do you measure to? The center of the shank?. The center of the head or just the average. I put a punch mark when I used them in the past but many did not and at close distances it does make a difference on line and distance. Today I use a B.P. to get through the asphalt and then set a 5/8" rebar with cap in the hole. I now use bridge spikes for eccentrics instead of hub and tack. Carry about a dozen R/R spikes arounr.d in the rig, habit I guess and still pick them up when I see a good one along the R/R.
jud

12V DC to 220V AC Power Inverter _ Perry

I purchased a small inverter to charge batteries from these folks.
They are very knowledgeable and phone friendly.
And they are on your side of the continent.
http://www.theinverterstore.com/