Hey all,
I recently got this item from someone else and while it states on it that it's a 'SET10", I'm not able to identify the actual type? I've seen online several things about like SET610,510, etc and also am not sure this is considered a Total Station??ÿ
Just looking to be pointed in the right direction. Thank you!
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I am not sure what you are asking here??ÿ It has the brand "Sokkisha" and the model "Set 10".?ÿ It is a very old total station.?ÿ Probably not worth much if you are trying to sell it.
Yes, this is a Sokkisha Set10.
Never owned one, but did know someone who did.
Like @johnh2005 says, it probably doesn't have any resale value; maybe as an ornament...?ÿ
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Give it back to the museum!
Oh, come on guys.?ÿ It's in the ballpark of 30 years old.?ÿ That's a blink of an eye to surveyors.
I would like to see if the top mount edm still works and such. Sokkisha -Sokkia. They held that whole Set series naming convention for a long time. I ran some Set 2B??s and Set 3 ??s Both Sokkisha and Sokkia and Lietz. I believe. My long term memory is not as sharp as it once was.?ÿ
Hi all, what a strange coincidence -- I'm the buyer on eBay.
I'm a college Computer Science student getting a minor in Geomatics, and since we're learning to use a variety of equipment (typically a little more modern) in lab classes, I thought I'd buy one for myself. I restore vintage computer equipment as a hobby and figured this would be a great project to clean up and get working if it didn't already. I found virtually nothing online about the SET10 model specifically (I'm most interested in the year of release and researching some contemporary units) but searching now brought up this thread. If anyone has any of those details, I'd love to know!
@justcheckin as for this unit specifically, one of the quirks I noticed was that the 12v car adapter seems to be a DIY job installed into what used to be a NiCd battery. Do you know the heritage of this unit?
I'm a bit of an old tech nut, so after it's cleaned up, it'll be an excellent display piece alongside some of my other obsolete tech.
Early to mid 1980s would be my best guess.
(I'm most interested in the year of release and researching some contemporary units)?ÿ
The OP has a picture of a manual; did this come in the package?
There might be information in it, if it did.
Dave's SWAG is probably close for the time period. I wouldn't call it a total station, I don't think it collected electronic data; I'd be interested in knowing if it does.
Data collection would've been with a field book and pencil.
Someone payed a wheelbarrow full money for it, when it was new...

@dougie The manual is here but unfortunately it doesn't have a date of manufacture (or even a copyright date for the manual) which makes me think 80s as well.
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It certainly doesn't do data collection on its own but it does have a (proprietary?) RS232 jack for connecting up to a data collector. I rebuilt the battery today and put it through the paces, seems to work great but I can't test the EDM since I don't have a prism yet.
You can probably work the EDM on a red "driveway marker" reflector from Home Depot. I'm guessing the usable range would be 10 ft to 100 yards or so. Hillman brand works best.
Or you could order some "prismatic" stickers from a survey supply shop. A cheap and easy way to get the functionality of a prism.
I remember running a Set3 in the early 80s. That or the Set4 was the top model at that time, so the Set10 would have come in somewhat later.
Angles were read optically on the Set3, through an eyepiece. The EDM worked OK. As I recall, it was an accurate gun and ruggedly built. If this one will shoot distance (to a driveway reflector, as Bill suggests), it will probably keep working for quite awhile.
I brought it to my professor's office hours and we put it through some proper paces, and unfortunately it seems like the laser is non-functional. As bad of an idea as it sounds, I'll probably open it up soon and see if there's anything obviously out of whack. For those keeping score at home, it draws around 500mA when the EDM switch is on, which certainly doesn't seem right -- especially considering it would have needed to work using an 80s NiCd battery. Hopefully, it's something as simple as the laser driver.