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Supreme Court Reference

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(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

I am looking at a map in Webb County Texas that is marked with two sets of distances and bearings on the boundary lines. One is marked "judgment".

It looks like a court case happened which determined the boundary of the tract. I found a letter dated 5-21-1906 in the file which states "This survey is on the O'Connor tract and we understand that this tract is now in litigation in the United States Supreme Court..."

I think the case was styled was E. Spohnet v Thos. O'Conor but I haven't found anything about it yet. Does anyone have any experience researching Supreme Court rulings/opinions? I'm working the Google but no luck so far.

 
Posted : May 28, 2014 7:34 am
(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

Found it

Found it.

O'Conor v. Texas

 
Posted : May 28, 2014 7:42 am
(@paden-cash)
Posts: 11088
 

Andy...(differnt subjeck)

Is your gasoline powered tow-motor up and running yet?

Hopefully you haven't retired it to the "pile" yet.

 
Posted : May 28, 2014 8:08 am
(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

.Andy...(differnt subjeck)

I do have spark now after replacing points and condenser.

I sprayed some ether into the oil bath air filter. No difference when I tried to start it. I'm flummoxed. I decided there might be a clog in the filter or something so I unbolt it and find out that the air filter is in no way whatsoever connected to the engine....

So, I looked all over the carb area and I have no clue how air gets into the cylinders. I can see the fuel line. No idea on the air. I got a shade tree mechanic up the road who can probably take care of it for a few bucks. I called him yesterday and he is headed over tomorrow.

 
Posted : May 28, 2014 10:39 am
(@paul-in-pa)
Posts: 6044
Registered
 

That Appears To Be A Flathead

Probably has valves stuck open. Remove the spark plugs and liberally spray
WD 40 into each cylinder. Turn it over by hand a few times, then contact each valve face with a long screw driver and confirm that the valve is going up and down freely. If not figure out when you are sure the valve should be in the down position contact the valve with a blunt chisel and gently tap it down. After that it may still stick in the up position a rotation later. Each time you tap it down you will loosen a bit of rust on the valve stem. Hammering hard can bend the valve stem. This is considered to be a "I have nothing left to lose proposition." Works on lawn mower engines and a lot of seldom used farm equipment.

Paul in PA

 
Posted : May 28, 2014 3:36 pm
(@andy-nold)
Posts: 2016
Topic starter
 

That's not my engine

What are you talking about, Paul? I have no issues with the cylinders. It was spark issues and now air/fuel mix issues. The thing just gunked up over winter storage.

Apparently the carb is a zenith cast iron updraft carb. I have never worked on an updraft carb before but now I know where the intake is. I have figured out enough to check for a stuck float, which is the primary suspect now.

 
Posted : May 28, 2014 4:20 pm
(@a-harris)
Posts: 8761
 

That's not my engine

Remember you were concerned with the oil bath air breather.

There was one on a 1954 pickup I had in the 70s and all the earlier models that I remember my family having.

Basically it is an industrial quality low maintenance system that will trap any particle with longer protection by forcing air to pass thru the oil. Most any grade of oil can be used. I always used recycled oil.

I would suggest taking it off to get the engine running. That will allow you to see if the carburetor is functioning and allow you to reach adjustment screws during your trials.

😉

 
Posted : May 28, 2014 5:28 pm
(@paul-in-pa)
Posts: 6044
Registered
 

That's not my engine

There should be a removable plug in the intake above the carburetor. Remove it to spray in raw gas or ether. It is there for another reason. when putting the engine to bed over the winter you open the plug while the engine is running, using a squirt oil can, add oil to the mixture let it make blue smoke for a minute then overload it and let the oil coated cylinders and valves sit rust free for the season. Remove and clean the plugs in the Spring and starting should be easier.

It has been a long time since I've touched a Zenith carburetor. Have you checked your compression since you are sure it is a fuel problem. If it is a fuel problem it should start with ether and then die.

Go to Tractor Supply and get a spray can of "Blaster", add some to the fuel bowl and spray some through the plug while the engine is running. It burns off internal buildup.

Paul in PA

 
Posted : May 28, 2014 7:01 pm