I am performing an update on an ALTA survey that I did about 2 years ago. All of my corners are still there, bit one of them fell in a seam of the asphalt where there is some sort of soft seam filler, and the pk with washer is very loose.
When I set the corner originally, the filler was fairly solid. Two years removed, and now the filler is pretty soft, and I can pull the corner out with a pair of pliers very easily.
Any idea what I could do to do a better job of monumenting this corner" I have thought about trying to drive a rebar down and capping it
I have never encountered a situation like this.
Thanks in advance,
Jimmy
I'd go with a 3" or 8" Mag-Spike by ChrisNik. If you've not seen them they're like a P-K or Mag-nail on steroids. I used the 8" ones for center-line control awhile back and had no problems driving them flush in cold pavement.
I pick up any rail road spikes I find when working along the tracks. They have many good uses. I have used them in situations similar to yours. They also make great chisels.
24" long 5/8" rebar. Hilti drill and a 2" or 1-1/2 " aluminum or brass cap
A cotton spindle works great in asphalt.
Working along the tracks without a permit from the railroad can be considered trespassing even for a surveyor and taking railroad spikes from the right of way would be considered stealing.
> 24" long 5/8" rebar. Hilti drill and a 2" or 1-1/2 " aluminum or brass cap
I'd probably settle for an 18-inch rebar for the aluminum cap just to be sure I didn't run it into some conduit. The flexible base for the pavement should mean that a slightly shorter rod will be plenty stable and the rod will be easy to pick up with a metal detector when the lot is seal coated or resurfaced.
Edit: That "seam filler" sounds like maybe a sawcut for some electrical something was sealed with goop. I'd think about setting witness markers outside the goop on line each way from the corner, stamping the offset on the caps.
you can order RR spikes
bring a drill and set a hole
Get it marked if you have to. 24" is minimum standard and I do it all the time in asphalt and concrete. Nothing to it. Sounds like in many places you would stand out and your monuments would seem more professional if a you set something more stable.
> Get it marked if you have to.
Well, I think my point was that I'm having a hard time imagining why there would be a "seam" in an asphalt pavement filled with soft material and would think twice about just assuming that because it was in a parking lot that there wasn't anything there that a rebar might hit when driven.
Silly man, trying to use something just laying there going to waste. That is so un-American. LOL
On a hot sunny day, I've been able to drive a 5/8 rebar straight through asphalt and the seam makes it that much easier. On the other hand, in subfreezing temperatures I have bent a half dozen railroad spikes trying to get one in cold asphalt.
The "seam" actually would be considered a crack, and the soft filler is probably a patch to keep water out.
I am going to try a cotton picker spindle with washer, because I have some of those in the truck. If that isn't solid enough, then I will probably go with a mag spike and washer.
Thanks for the replies.
Most of us in PLSSia set monuments in asphalt and concrete roads on a regular basis. Cotton spindles work very well. Railroad spikes work well except that they may 'float' a bit in soft asphalt, so you must set them down a quarter-inch or so to prevent getting grabbed by a snowplow blade. Regular 1/2" rebar can be driven into most typical asphalt roadbeds. Where it turns ugly is if you have what was originally a concrete road overlaid with about 4-6 inches of asphalt.
This subject matter is one that is near and dear to my heart. I ask the question "What is the most professional way to mark this?". From your post, I think of the following:
If you drive a 1/2"x30" rebar, and cap it, then the parking lot scraper (snow machines or other scrapers) hit it, well, it probably will loose it's cap.
If you drive a RR spike, it will probably go to RR spike heaven.
IF you drive a small spike, same thing.
IF you drive a 3/4" Pipe, 30" long, and cap it, well, about the same as a 1/2" rebar, but it will flex less, if struck by the parking lot monster.
IF you set a 1/2" x 30" rebar, and drive it 1" subsurface, then set a 3/4" x 12" over the rebar, and cap it, then the parking lot monster gets it, then the rebar will probably survive, even if the 3/4" pipe goes bye bye.
So, I ask you, IF you were retracing this survey, 25 yrs from now, what will survive?
Don't forget to touch a magnet to the top of the metal monument, to RESET the polarity, when you pound them hard. This makes them findable, to a metal detector, especially if a 2" lift of asphalt is added.
Maybe even a 1/2" rebar, then a 12" 3/4" pipe, then ANOTHER 12"x 3/4" Pipe, with the cap. Now, something will survive.
Think of the golden rule: Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you.
Leave footsteps.
Nate
I'd set a truck axle.
Set them like this and they last as long as the pavement or concrete. Snow plows don't bother them in the least
There are those that would say, "Slap some state plane coordinates on a map and call it good!"
I tend to agree with the idea of what would you want to find there 25 years later.... even in adverse condtions!
Remember this is one of the things that can really show the difference to your clients between a quality job and a "bare minimum" lowballer approach.
Set what will survive and charge the client accordingly, with a detailed explaination of what you set, and why.
The good clients will thank you for it, the bad ones.... let them step over 5 dollar bills to pick up a nickle....
B-)
:good: :good: Truck axle for sure, And leave an orange traffic cone on it!
I would guess the chances of a snow plow hitting a point out in Jimmy's territory are pretty close to 0
