Hi folks,
What is the best method for painting blazed trees near the line? I don't think the inverted spray paint that we (some of us) use to paint highways (snicker) would be the best method. For one thing, the stuff I use fades away pretty fast.
Is a plain old brush and bucket of paint the best way? I have a client that wants his lines around 80 acres blazed and painted. I did the boundary survey for the lady he bought it from a couple years ago.
thanks,
Terry
> Hi folks,
> What is the best method for painting blazed trees near the line? I don't think the inverted spray paint that we (some of us) use to paint highways (snicker) would be the best method. For one thing, the stuff I use fades away pretty fast.
>
> Is a plain old brush and bucket of paint the best way? I have a client that wants his lines around 80 acres blazed and painted. I did the boundary survey for the lady he bought it from a couple years ago.
> thanks,
> Terry
To me, a blaze is a notch cut into the tree, which is then painted:
The method I use is to "scar" the tree with a horizontal line repeated a few times with my machete at the spot where I want the bottom of the blaze. Then, I chop down at a 45 degree angle where I want the top of the blaze, and pull out the notch. My way is pretty fast, and still holds a general rectangular shape. Then, spray in a lot of paint.
UNH has a pretty good PDF.....
> durable brush-on paint, such as a marine-enamel or a polyurethane-based paint. Some hardware supply stores and mail order companies sell paint especially made for marking boundary lines.
We use bucket and brush. I don't remember the name of the paint but it lasts for a long time.
You might want..
[sarcasm]To explain what T-R-E-E-S are to those on the board who reside in the southwest or the plain states..they're probably scratching their heads right now [/sarcasm]o.O +o( :clap:
Looks like the tree grew aroud the tag. I was taught to leave a 1/2" or so of the nail sticking out to allow the tree to grow.
-JD-
> Looks like the tree grew aroud the tag. I was taught to leave a 1/2" or so of the nail sticking out to allow the tree to grow.
>
> -JD-
Yeah....gotta leave em out some...even then they'll succumb at some point...especially West Coast with the bad ass trees
A shy friend of mine working for the NYSDEC in the Adirondacks paints miles of lines every year. His suggestion:
The Bureau of Real Property of the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation has literally thousands of miles of boundary lines between state and private lands to maintain in the Adirondack Park.
We have found the best method to paint blazed trees along boundary lines is to use the paint right from a gallon paint can with a 3" wide paint brush. We extend the paint brush handle with an attached thin stick of wood 10 inches long for ease in getting to the bottom of the can.
We use "Gold Coast Coatings", "Enamel Grip", Interior/Exterior Alkyd Gloss Enamel. Safety Tree Yellow, G566283. If the tree blazes and bark are dry when applying, this paint can easily last 10 years and much longer depending on tree growth and characteristics of the bark of the tree species.
Our field clothes attest to the fact that it can be a messy job. We can paint anywhere from 3,500 ft to a mile a day depending on the density of trees and the amount of blazes.
KS
Our later Forest Service boundary line surveys specified "farm equipment enamel" paint or similar. We bought the spray cans and used a plastic trigger device for standard spray paint cans which attaches to the top. Keeps the fingers out of the spray.
+1
I used the product clearcut linked for about three miles of painted lines. It worked really well and is still visible from 6-7 years ago. Easy to carry spares in a field vest and make sure to use the plastic trigger attachment to keep from as much on your fingers.
>
> Our field clothes attest to the fact that it can be a messy job. ......
>
> KS
I would guess so. In my neck of the woods, trying to traverse a steep, rocky arsed slope while carrying an axe in one hand, a paint brush in the other, with the handle of a 1 gallon paint can clinched between my teeth. I'd probably be a mess too. In more ways than one.
No thanks,
I'll keep to using spray cans conveniently tucked into my vest paint can holders.
Depends.
Spray paint is easier, but doesn't last a long time.
The best way, and it is the way that we used for the timber companies when we worked for them, is an oil based paint and a broad brush. The painter came behind us as we hack and blazed the lines and only painted the trees we hack and blazed. The lines were very good looking when we got through and no tree was marked more than a machete length from the line so they appear to "close up on you" after a while.
All hacks were painted and all blazes were painted. It is the best way for longevity and will last A LONG time with oil based paint, just wear old clothes, or clothes you no longer want any more.
Scrape the bark with the blade and apply a heavt coat of latex house paint. I did some aerial targets with it in 1991 and you can still see them when you drive by.
> Depends.
>
> Spray paint is easier, but doesn't last a long time.
>
> The best way, and it is the way that we used for the timber companies when we worked for them, is an oil based paint and a broad brush. The painter came behind us as we hack and blazed the lines and only painted the trees we hack and blazed. The lines were very good looking when we got through and no tree was marked more than a machete length from the line so they appear to "close up on you" after a while.
>
> All hacks were painted and all blazes were painted. It is the best way for longevity and will last A LONG time with oil based paint, just wear old clothes, or clothes you no longer want any more.
I respectively disagree, other than the spray can method is easier, much easier.
If you don't agree, then come on out here to the left coast and I can show you some pretty old spray painted blazes.
I've been marking and posting forest and timber boundaries for 30 years as my primary work. Much of the areas I work had blazing done in the 1950-1960 era. Blue spray paint was the standard for those guys. It has stood the test of time well.
Any oil based paint. I've always just picked up RustOleum at the hardware store in safety yellow, but now that we have the new law where purple paint serves as no trespassing signs, I've had to order Nelson or Bark-Mark.
We've used the KRYLON inverted cap spray paint for quite a few years now and have not had a problem going back and finding line. We make sure we get a good blaze and coat it pretty good with the paint. Then we flag the line heavily with the good old pink ribbon and our foresters are able to understand where they need to stop and not encroach onto the neighboring property.
clearcut
While I haven't been doing it for 30 years, 22 is close enough I suppose. We have and do, paint some lines with spray paint. They are not oil based and don't stick well enough for my liking. We have gone back over them some 5 to 7 years later, and the paint is all but gone. However, in my little area I love to practice in called Deadwood, there are MILES of lines there painted with an orange oil/lead based paint from the 40's that still look VERY good.
I feel that with the brush, it looks better as I can "layer" it on better for a nicer job.
I'm not arguing with your observations, however these are mine. I'll keep the spray paint for the road (I think I still have a can from 2000 in my truck somewhere). I just don't use the stuff much.
Kris
Well, I guess one thing could be said for painting with a brush and bucket, is that with all the drips, runs, spills and splatter, the forestor or logger isn't likely to miss the mess.
Must be a regional thing. I'd thought you were joking about using a brush and bucket if I didn't believe it to be true.
