I'm preparing a quote for scraping/painting boundary lines for 900ac.+ tract. We've already flagged the lines so it's a matter of just walking through and painting. Any of you guys that do this often have a rule of thumb for LF/day? This is flat country. The tract is relatively rectangular with long lines.
You might check my previous thread at
http://beerleg.com/index.php?mode=thread&id=136947
I think someone indicated a mile per day.
I don't think that I could cover over a half mile per day.
About 2 months ago I got hired by a fence contractor who was installing about 1.5 miles of woven wire fence, with T posts, along 2 lines. Steep mountains, 5' high brush, with no possible way of line of sight for more than a couple hundred feet. Thus he wanted the lines staked
I set up my GPS, acquired the two lines I needed, and walked both lines with about 10 cans of orange paint and the contractor by my side. I put paint dots on the ground, on the bushes, on rocks, wherever he wanted them....at about 25 to 50 ft intervals.
My closure was within 0.1'
It took me about 6 hrs, including 1 hr travel each way. One of the more interesting $1,000 days I've spent in quite some time. As a bonus, the snakes weren't out yet and never saw a lion (but a couple javalina put a spook on us as they ran away)
Are you chopping blazes or just painting them? Chopping the blazes takes all the time. I've been in old growth doug fir that takes quite an effort to chop all the wasy into the cambiem layer.
Anyways, if blazing and painting, 2 guys can get about a mile and a half on reasonably level ground. This is with typical timber spacing for our area which means about 200 blazes per mile.
There was a correction; it was about a mile per GALLON of paint.
KS
Around here, Foresters and such are jumping through all kinds of hoops to remark boundary for less than $0.10 per foot. This includes cutting a 4-foot wide by 8-foot tall troach and pulling all the brush to one side. MAybe you should just sub the job out to someone like that.:-) 😉 😀 B-) :totalstation: :gammon: :plumbbob: :beer: :beer:
One thing I have to point out is that a painted line has thickness. If you want a true line, you should use two colors: say black and yellow. The line in between them would be the true line and not involve thickness.
The use of a spray can is a strict no no since it's maybe two or three inches wide.
Say what?
I'm not talking about the thickness of the painted line which might be a couple of microns. I'm talking about your painted line which might be 2" or 3" wide. Now if you specified the the true line was on the north or east bside of that painted line, that may be ok. But if you painted a yellow line and then right next to that you painted a black line [so that they slightly overlapped], then you would have a true line where the black meets the yellow. In other words, no width.
Peter
I think he's talking about painting trees in timberland. The idea is to mark trees so that it is apparent whose tree is whose and which trees are on the boundary.
There are different schemes and colors (yellow being common). Trees not on the line are painted facing the line and trees on line are painted where the line enters and leaves the tree.
This is eastern timberland, only scraping the bark a little so the paint lasts longer.
Thanks for the input.
