Leica TPS powering from car battery/ own cable

That is expensive, but I see it has surge and polarity protection:

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Anyway, this video may help:

Thank you for the video. It will be very helpfull when soldering 😀

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But does anybody know to which pin I need to solder "+" and to which "-" from car battery?

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@djdan?ÿ I did the same hack you're describing a year or so ago with less than stellar results. IMHO you're better off buying the LEMO connector 'ready made' and working the other end to fit your needs. I also use a Parani BT on my 1200 series robot and the y-cable shown worked out fine. I used a 9ah SLA battery (HD) with spade terminals for power. Both set me back about $75. The Leica cable and red brick battery would likely have cost $500. Like others have stated, CHECK your polarity and maybe put an in-line fuse in the circuit.

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Here's a schematic I made years ago.

@djdan As others have said, LEMO cables are can be tough.?ÿ I gave up on doing it years ago, it is just not worth the frustration / cost of having a failure in the field.?ÿ These guys might be have something you can use https://www.gpac-llc.com/productlist.php?category=9&secondary=37 .

On a side note, you might look at a smaller deep cycle battery to run you setup.?ÿ Car batteries are not meant to provide a continuous draw for the long term and are a pain in the a$$ to move around all day.

@john-putnam

As someone who currently runs a 5600 from a car battery, John's advice is spot-on.?ÿ Unless you're looking to bulk up by carrying a car battery all day, look into an alternative power source.?ÿ?ÿ

I don't solder LEMOs anymore, either.?ÿ I've been running both my Leica robots with these batteries for about 8 years now, the latest pair I bought still run the gun all day after 3 years.?ÿ These are NOT L-ion batteries - much safer.?ÿ Be sure and get the recommended charger with them.

https://www.batteryspace.com/Customize-LiFePO4-18650-Battery-12.8V-4500-mAh-57.6Wh-7A-rate-w/PCB.aspx

@john-putnam?ÿ GPAC does make nice power packs and cable assemblies, but most of the batteries are the cheaper SLA's that you can pick up at HD or online for significantly less. They work fine as long as you double the capacity you think you will need for a day's work and recharge every time you use them no matter how long the duration.

@sergeant-schultz Unfortunately you still can not ship these air cargo.

Thank you all guys for help :D?ÿ

Writing "car battery" I've thought about something like this (it weights about 2kg):

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@jim-frame

If I correctly read your schematic, 5-PIN LEMO 1 SHELL MALE PLUG is the same side of cable, which I've photographed in 1 post? And the 0-SHELL is connecting to TPS?

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Thanks! 😀

@djdan I saw your cable online and noticed two LEMO connectors, one for the instrument and one for the battery. My old 1200 used the "red brick" which had a connector which looked like a capital "U" with the top closed. Not sure what battery the LEMO connects to. You might consider returning the cable before you cut off one end as it may be an expensive lesson in soldering.

Your picture is the type of battery I used in my setup. I cut off the trailer hitch connector on the cable and used Anderson PP connectors which I also used on both battery and charger. Much easier to attach/detach and keeps polarity correct.

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Posted by: @beartow

I use the Anderson Powerpole connectors, with the ARES configuration standard.

Those connectors are great because you can interconnect anything to anything while maintaining correct polarity.

I put 2 parallel connectors on my receiver cable so I can hot swap batteries, or parallel batteries if the need comes up, say for an overnight session. With two connectors on a battery, you can do the same, or daisy chain them on the float charger.

Link toprior discussion and pictures of Anderson connectors

I sold a GPS500 earlier this year in Germany. I threw a Leica GEV71 in the box for free.......sorry!

Here is a potential solution for you. No soldering:

https://www.lartikata.xyz/external-power-le52x-cable-with-alligator-clips-for-south-s82-s86-gps-to-pdl-hpb-p-766579.htm

Or buy two of these (one for the TPS and one for the TCPS26B):

https://www.lartikata.xyz/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=766573

Ask them for a wiring diagram to make sure. But it is probably fine.

These cables do not have diode protection.

@micheal-daubyn-2

Thanks, but that 1st link is for South, not Leica, so I'm not sure if it will be compatible.

2nd link - there is 5pin 0B LEMO, I need 5 pin, but 1B size LEMO :/

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GEB171 have 2 connectors - LEMO and that "U", about which you are writing :)?ÿ

Of course I want to buy LEMO female 5 pin 1B connector and solder cables to it. Cutting off cable for 300$ is not an option 🙂

@john-putnam?ÿ I know, But still far & away superior to SLAs, which I used for years before discovering LiFePo.?ÿ Worth the wait for ground shipping!

@djdan

I did mention that you should email them for a wiring diagram.

If you buy the second cable that I linked, you can use it for the TPS.

You can also cut it in half, and splice in a DB9 plug for your positive, negative, RX and TX to your Parani.

After all, does the GEV187 carry power at all to the DB9? I'm not sure that it does. If it doesn't, then you need to run a battery for the Parani. You have an opportunity to run it all off the car battery with one neat cable, but you might want to restrict the voltage to the Parani. Perhaps from 12/14.5 down to below 9V.

As long as the cable that I linked has the RX and TX wires still in it. They usually do, because they are usually USB cables with different fittings put on them.

It's the cheaper and easier option.