I get them from Bathey. They are suprisingly quite sturdy. The lettering is lasered on and so far seems very wear resistance. The stem has indent tabs that lock onto the rebar and you have to work hard to get it off. Frost heave will not push them off.
My only gripe is they do not have a "center" punch mark so I have to do that.
I need to order some for Alabama.
I use the plastic ones if I am resetting a corner and for bulk corner sets like a subdivision. I try to reserve the metal one for if create a new lot.
Obviously, what I'm doing will not compete price wise with plastic caps or similar.?ÿ No intention of doing that at all.
I'm using 1/4 inch stainless steel securely attached to the rebar.?ÿ
The lettering is deeply engraved and will never fade or wear off.
They will be from 1-1/2 inch to 4 inches diameter. Individual custom marking on a piece by piece basis will be available (like BLM section corners, ROW markers, serial numbered lot corners).
BUT, if there is not a market for this, won't happen.
Where do you buy these?
https://www.bathey.com/rebar-caps/stainless-steel-rebar-caps/stamped
These things are badass. Down to the last handful of my original 100, which reminds me to order another 500 tomorrow...
How heavy are those??ÿ Stainless steel is expensive,?ÿ Must be fairly thin sheet.?ÿ Will they take any abuse??ÿ How hard is it to pull one off?
they're not aircraft carrier-thick, but they're stainless.?ÿ which is to say- my standard practice of setting is to drive the rod to about 2" from grade, check it, drive it to (approx.) grade (depending upon what the ground is going to let me do).?ÿ check it again.?ÿ it's only when i know i'm within a 1/4-1/2 inch from the rod being at it's final place do i bang that cap on.?ÿ and i'm hitting them with a 5 pound sledge, no sort of prophylactic between surfaces, and they've taken that like a champ- no bending, deformation, marring.?ÿ after it's in i take the last shot on it.
Would you get a reaction between the stainless and the rebar? Dissimilar metals?
I just talked to Bathey and Curt (or Kirk) said they use 304 Stainless and no liner. The stainless caps have been produced for 5 years and they haven't seen an issue with galvanic corrosion. I suppose I'll put my order in and try some.
Jeezus!
What state or you in LR? That is an awful lot of LS's.?ÿ
JA, PLS SoCal
LS 8675309
they're not aircraft carrier-thick, but they're stainless.?ÿ which is to say- my standard practice of setting is to drive the rod to about 2" from grade, check it, drive it to (approx.) grade (depending upon what the ground is going to let me do).?ÿ check it again.?ÿ it's only when i know i'm within a 1/4-1/2 inch from the rod being at it's final place do i bang that cap on.?ÿ and i'm hitting them with a 5 pound sledge, no sort of prophylactic between surfaces, and they've taken that like a champ- no bending, deformation, marring.?ÿ after it's in i take the last shot on it.
I use a small dead blow hammer to put the cap on. I suppose you could equally use the hammer handle to avoid lugging around more tools. I find that I do have to put a very small bevel on the rebar, very small.
Utah.
?ÿ
The DOPL (license agency) numbers all licenses of every kind one after another.?ÿ I think a new LS today would have a number in the 500-600,000 range.?ÿ There is another code that identifies the profession.?ÿ 2201 and 2202 are surveyors and engineers.?ÿ Just the goofy way they do it.
I'm not sure but think there is maybe 5-600 active land surveyors licensed in Utah.?ÿ Some are out of state multi state people.
