Formwork layout

Wesley Crawford's book is really good. It can be found at http://www.creativeconstruction.com/

I have it and refer to it on regularly.

I have had my eye on this thing (the marksman) for years, still haven't bought one yet though:

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One thing (you've probably discovered) is the need, requirements of those that will use your work.
A good understanding between setter out and end user is vital.
You say you're a carpenter, so is it the same person here?

My experience with bridge work has been on that basis.

Generally a foreman worth his salt, can build things with remarkable accuracy and immediately sniff out erroneous setout.
I'd suggest those that want spoon feeding could easily be led astray by their own misunderstanding.

As to "standard practice", again I try and work with how the site foreman works.
Whilst there's often differing acceptable ways, to introduce an alternative onto a site may well end in disaster and you in the pooh, big way.
"it was that idiot surveyor who placed those marks....... "
And even an" idiot sheet" presented with your work isn't a saving feature, especially where it's not passed onto those at the coal face, so to speak.

Sounds like you've taught yourself some good methods. I particularly agree with you snapping intersections, that does works faster than trying to set actual corners where possible.

I would say pay close attention to prism constants with changing glass foresights, although I have no idea with Hilti and how that works.

Being able to check diagonals, even distances in between straight points, with whatever total station you have would be a great advantage over what most construction guys do. Nothing like seeing the correct distance show up between set points.

ken, post: 330950, member: 1548 wrote: Sounds like you've taught yourself some good methods. I particularly agree with you snapping intersections, that does works faster than trying to set actual corners where possible.

I would say pay close attention to prism constants with changing glass foresights, although I have no idea with Hilti and how that works.

Being able to check diagonals, even distances in between straight points, with whatever total station you have would be a great advantage over what most construction guys do. Nothing like seeing the correct distance show up between set points.

I just realize how vague my thread was haha.
The job i am on now is a 4 story condo building and i am still at the slab stage.
Yes i am a carpenter, my total station is mechanical and i just use a simple reflective prism.. not a fancy one ( i assume thats what you mean)

I have been laying out 12" beams, once i set up and am waiting for the plywood to go down, i check the beams occasionally to ensure accuracy. Its always nice when it reads (-6 or +6") off of centre line! Same thing when i checked the tops of the columns, i would shoot reflector less and ensure everything is where it needs to be.

More then a few times someone has bumped the machine without telling me... luckily i have a whole bunch of reference points to measure and check with... "I know that beam was closer then 1 1/2" yesterday"

I am exploring the vertical layout function and slope functions on the tool as well, might as well use it to its full potential.

I want to touch on a couple of things since you said you don't know SOP's.

Frequently check your set-up and especially after you have been out of sight of it for more than a couple of minutes.
Your Gun may not refuse to shoot with more than 40" of tilt (plumb) error like my $25,000 robot.

Very carefully measure your HI (instrument height) when doing verticals. I cannot stress this enough. It is amazing how many times a man with over 30 years experience can blow that one simple thing.:-$

Learn to convert between decimal feet and feet-inch, that way you can get by with a cheapo calculator in a pinch. I assume you have a calculator that works in fractions, degrees and trig functions like the Casio Solar fx-300MS for ~ $30.

Speaking of decimal feet, don't waste time chasing accuracy. Find out what the maker claims for the instrument and don't waste your time trying to be better than it. Take the tangent of your 6" which is 0.00029 multiplied by 25' distance will equal 0.00073' ( 1/8" =0.0104' ).
Its like wetting your pants in a dark suit, you get a warm feeling but no body notices.

OK that was more than a couple but you were smart enough to come here so I just want to make sure you get your moneys worth.:beer:

When I work on bridges my prference is to layout using points of the structure. Example: I would set a centerline beam/centerline bearing on one abutment and the same on the other abutment. Then occupy one and sight the other to lay out the rest. Laying out this way esures the bridge fits with itself. Even if the bridge was off .5' wouldn't matter because the whole bridge is off .5'

When layout doing precision layout I only use peanut prism or worst case a 1' solid pole to keep as accurate as possible.