I was working on some basic grade work and got very frustrated with the pointed end on the prism pole and made a flat bottom insert for the pole. I have no idea if these are even available, or if anyone but me would see a benefit to using one?
The insert is designed to simply thread into the socket where the point goes. Nothing too fancy. Was going to make a bigger one but figured it might be more of a pain at times. Might do a bigger one just to see how I like it.
Seco makes this one. The shoe fits over the point in a way that keeps the the H.I, the same. Pretty handy to be able to switch from regular point for control to topo shoe with out worrying about H.I. issues.
I like the idea but I would eventually lose it.
I just keep about a foot of red heater hose, about 3/4 ID, and cut off a piece about 2 1/2" long to slide over the point. Pull it off and put it in my vest pocket when I need a point. If I lose it then just cut another one.
James
Hmm. I have a topo foot for my prism poles that is the same height as the pointed foot. I've had it for at least twenty years. It's really not a problem to interchange the topo foot and pointed foot, putting the unused one in an inside pocket of the vest. The topo foot is basically just a piece of aluminum round stock the same nominal diameter as the prism pole and with a 5/8 x 11 threaded hole to allow it to screw onto the pole.
Anyone recall the "Berntsen Top Security 3D Sleeve" monument? A 9/16 stainless rod in a monument well, projecting 3-4 in. And a tiny punch mark. Pain in the ass when trying to put a Seco 2 m fixed hgt antenna pole on one of them.
We had a steel round stock with a 3/4 in pocket and it replaced the point. The pocket fit on the stainless steel monument rod and it's depth matched the pointy tip.
Don't see Berntsen Top Security 3D Sleeve monuments much any more.
Once when we only needed a range pole, they came with an end cap that was the same diameter as the pole.
They could be purchased in 4ft sections and could be connected together to gain a very tall pole if necessary.
The rod cap protected the threads and kept them from being stuffed with any debris.
I still have a two section pole, point and cap that I purchased in 1974.
Having one the same length as the rod point is a plus for keeping the same rod height.
You could enter the accessory market.
EBay is full of stuff but not one like that.
Mark Mayer, post: 432418, member: 424 wrote: This is the variety I use. It sounds like what Kent described.
Yes, that's exactly the item, only mine is now so well used that the black anodizing is mostly gone.
Stephen Ward, post: 432408, member: 1206 wrote:
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Seco makes this one. The shoe fits over the point in a way that keeps the the H.I, the same. Pretty handy to be able to switch from regular point for control to topo shoe with out worrying about H.I. issues.
That's what I use. It's pretty quick to install or remove. I painted a line on the pole and the shoe to make aligning the pin easier.
The iron one I purchased some time ago looks more like the one in the Jim Frame pic with the large flat plug on the end except it screws on to replace the point like the one in the Mark Mayer pic.
The 2meter poles that came with my GPS equipment have a plastic cover that screws on over the point and when not in use screws under the level bubble.

This is what I use. Same height as the points. All of them are a bit rusty now from the saltwater environment. Over the years I have learned to keep the threads lubed with white lithium grease and remove whatever tip is on the rod at the end of the day before storing it in it's padded PVC case. Removing the tips prevents them from forming a nearly unbreakable bond with the rod. The padded end capped PVC tubing helps keep the vial true while riding in the back of the truck.
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Topcon previously made one (maybe they still do...) that would screw on under the plumb bubble when not in use. Pretty good idea.
I have cut an x in a tennis ball and slipped that over the point.
party chef, post: 341803, member: 98 wrote: A plastic rebar cap on the end of the rod works as well, can even let a couple 100ths of the rod tip through for when you want to tie something with the rod.
This ^^^^
We have one each of the points/tips that Mark Mayer and BushAxe shared.
And we try to stick to leaving the tips off when not in use like BushAxe.
Here's my tip though. I put powdered graphite on the threads, on the days when I remember to, before threading on either tip. It has been working to prevent seizing over the past two years, and it doesn't get dirt stuck to it like grease.
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jalbrz, post: 432433, member: 11371 wrote: We have one each of the points/tips that Mark Mayer and BushAxe shared.
And we try to stick to leaving the tips off when not in use like BushAxe.
Here's my tip though. I put powdered graphite on the threads, on the days when I remember to, before threading on either tip. It has been working to prevent seizing over the past two years, and it doesn't get dirt stuck to it like grease.
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Jeff?
I place a plastic cap over the tip, place it on the ground and put my weight on it till the tip pokes out a little, works for me. I guess I should buy one.
I had never seen the one with a pin on it. Interesting
I have an old Topcon 2meter rod that the flat tip screws over the pointed tip. When not in use it screws in under the level vial. Jp
bob james, post: 432405, member: 12050 wrote: I was working on some basic grade work and got very frustrated with the pointed end on the prism pole and made a flat bottom insert for the pole. I have no idea if these are even available, or if anyone but me would see a benefit to using one?
The insert is designed to simply thread into the socket where the point goes. Nothing too fancy. Was going to make a bigger one but figured it might be more of a pain at times. Might do a bigger one just to see how I like it.
There are a few versions out there, I call it a topo boot. I've used the quite a bit. The easiest one to use is made of plastic and slides over the point.
I use Teflon tape on point connections of poles, tripods & bipods.
