It's been awhile since I needed to file a mylar survey with the county. Went to seal the drawing and the moment I stamped it, I remembered the ink doesn't particularly like mylar. I let it "dry" overnight, but still it is as fresh as ever this morning.
Going to try a hair dryer later - warm setting. Maybe it's the humidity?
You need a Mark II stamp pad:
Yellow sticky note over ink. Should keep it from smearing when rolled and even acts as a blotter for excess ink.
Are you using double-matte mylar? I don't have any trouble with ink drying quickly on the mylars I produce. Plotter ink, signature ink, stamp pad ink, it all dries fast on the double-matte I use.
Jim Frame, post: 392176, member: 10 wrote: Are you using double-matte mylar? I don't have any trouble with ink drying quickly on the mylars I produce. Plotter ink, signature ink, stamp pad ink, it all dries fast on the double-matte I use.
Went to a local reprographics shop and had the print made. I wasn't aware of the double -matte mylar. Is it porous enough to hold the ink?
Gromaticus, post: 392174, member: 597 wrote: You need a Mark II stamp pad:
First I've heard of this product. Thanks!
Its been a while since I needed to wet stamp a mylar.
Double or single matt means only that you can either draw on one side or two. We used to draw some features on the back side so as to not disturb the linework moving forward. The size of the tooth on the mylar is what determines its suitability for accepting ink. There are various grades of it.
Some inks dry very slowly which is what you seem to be using. Find a faster drying ink. I used the loink product for a while. It actually dried out too fast. rendering the stamp pad useless unless you get the reactavator product.
Get a can of spray fixative from an art supply store and after you are done with your plat and have stamped it give it a light coat of spray and let it dry. This makes changes very difficult though. We used a sheet of paper with a hole in it so we only got the spray on the seal. Do it outside and don't smoke while spraying.
You can and should cover the seal with a postit note if you are going to roll it up anyway unless you want a mess.
Just ordered the loink pad and ink. But....
Still have a wet stamp that I need to remove or just have it printed again. Solvent/oil that can remove ink without damaging the substrate - maybe WD-40?
The fixative idea I think I've used before. Not convinced it's the best long term solution (wear off, yellowing with time etc.).
Mapman, post: 392194, member: 6096 wrote: Just ordered the loink pad and ink. But....
Still have a wet stamp that I need to remove or just have it printed again. Solvent/oil that can remove ink without damaging the substrate - maybe WD-40?
The fixative idea I think I've used before. Not convinced it's the best long term solution (wear off, yellowing with time etc.).
You could try water and a vinyl eraser, but I would just replot.
I agree with you on the fixative (but I've never tried it).
I've been using the Lo-Ink pad for 20 years or more. It's ink is air-drying, so the pad will dry out between uses. I just re-ink every time I need it. I've never liked the reactivator very much, I usually just use their ink.
I plot my seal along with the rest of the drawing using a Staedtler Lumocolor Permanent "S" (which I think is the "fine" weight). Dries in about 2 minutes and never smears - except maybe when the county clerk licks her thumb and rubs it to verify that it's original!
It has been years since I needed to file a mylar. That ink drying wait seemed to last for ever and ever. Hard to make it look neat. Don't miss mylar one bit.
What I really hated back in the dark ages was hand drafting on linen.
Every time we change to a new plotter, we have to get the plotter manufacturer to help us figure a mylar and ink set up so we can print on mylar and have it dry in a reasonable time frame. Then we have to find a stamp pad and ink pen so we can stamp and sign the mylars. Our current machine is printing on a roll that is labled as a plastic film, but it passes everyones test to be considered mylar, and the ink dries instantly on it, if we print in fine mode. No detailed pictures, or we spend an hour cleaning rollers on the output feed!
Mapman, post: 392194, member: 6096 wrote: Just ordered the loink pad and ink. But....
Still have a wet stamp that I need to remove or just have it printed again. Solvent/oil that can remove ink without damaging the substrate - maybe WD-40?
The fixative idea I think I've used before. Not convinced it's the best long term solution (wear off, yellowing with time etc.).
I have hundreds of drawings in my office that have the seal sprayed. It lasts a long time under those conditions but would yellow in sunlight. However, if you are using the drawing everyday, it likely will crack and wear.
My good buddy Ray Schutrop had his business cards printed on fade-out grid mylar. He won many a bar bet with the strongman who couldn't rip his card in half. Ray is gone now but that makes me smile.
Have not worked on mylar in 20+ years.
Most printers are designed for bond paper.
The ink for mylar is fast drying and is not well suited for modern printheads.
Preparation of mylar before printing is necessary as there is a film on one side for the print to stand up on top of the paper and it may be better to print on the other side.
The ink thing is frustrating, the plotter mylar takes the staedtler ink pins for signing, but for the copier mylar you have to use a thin sharpie pin. If you don't it smears and won't ever dry with the staedtler pin.
Had to buy special matted mylar to run through the printer/copier and only the Sharp printer will do it, the other printers ruin the mylar.
So it may be the type of mylar you have and the type of ink.
A Harris, post: 392254, member: 81 wrote: The ink for mylar is fast drying and is not well suited for modern printheads.
I run the same ink for both bond and mylar in my HP-450C. The mylar setting on the plotter slows the plot down, presumably to allow the ink to dry. It's maybe half or less of bond speed, but not a big deal for me since I don't print that many mylars -- only maps that have to be filed with a public agency get that treatment.
I use 4-mil double-matte mylar, and have no trouble with ink smearing.
I used to have an awful problem with the ink drying slowly and smudging, even after hanging the mylar on the line and spraying with fixative, then our plotter repair guy suggested I was plotting on the wrong side. I was. Huge difference. Now it drys in minutes. Sheesh.
I went thru the same problem when I was using mylar sheets. I started buying it by the roll and don't have to worry about printing on the wrong side.
Mapman, post: 392172, member: 6096 wrote: It's been awhile since I needed to file a mylar survey with the county. Went to seal the drawing and the moment I stamped it, I remembered the ink doesn't particularly like mylar. I let it "dry" overnight, but still it is as fresh as ever this morning.
Going to try a hair dryer later - warm setting. Maybe it's the humidity?
Dad had some stuff he sprayed on it. We quit drawing on film/mylar when we got rid of the pen plotter circa 1999. Haven't needed the spray since.
We spray our mylar with Kamar varnish. It's an art preservative and it works very well. It tends to dry out slow ink pretty fast.
