Richard, post: 378532, member: 833 wrote: But for anything posted above the subsurface mark how do you treat that in terms of boundary marker?
You don't. They have no standing as boundary markers. Here in Oregon it is common to set a 2x2 "white" ( 18" total length, about 12" above ground, painted white) next to the freshly set boundary iron in lieu of a lath, especially in new subdivisions.
In British Columbia it is required that a triangular cedar "guard post" be set adjacent to the iron rod boundary marker. These too are painted white. When you find a guard post and you expect to find the pin next to it. Lots of times you find a pin whose guard post has succumbed to time or some other mayhem, it has no effect. But if you find a guard post and do not find a pin you haven't really found anything.
I know its not steel or above ground, but my dad would put a flag stone over the lot corner. Easy to see when mowing and easy to move to observe the corner. You could plant an oak tree next to it, that would work. I find that "builders" are so short sighted when it comes to these type of things.
We have a couple older subdivisions here where iron pipes were set as guard posts / markers for the property corners; it turned out to be a horrible idea, as after a while the original corners became hard to find and the iron pipes became the accepted corners. The plat stated that a hub and tack was set, but it seems that very few surveyors read that plat note, or made an attempt to search for the original points when the iron pipe was plain as day.
If you can talk them out of iron above ground, my preference would be iron rods well below the surface with gray PVC capped pipe slipped over the rod and protruding above the surface.
Nearly 30 years ago an old boy was more than happy to show me where the corners of his lot were. He had placed a used disk blade over each bar when the surveyor laid then out about thirty years earlier than my arrival.
The disc blades were about 18 inches in diameter. By design they are concave (about three inches worth in this case). The hole where the axle shaft goes through the center of the blade was bigger than the bar set so these were simply perfect. Over time silt and other matter had built up over each blade leaving only the area near the bar/hole exposed above the grass. Talk about something that will make the Schoenstedt sing!!!!!!!!!!!
The HOA of a lake subdivision ask me to set a monument with GPS data and an elevation so they would have an onsite control point for future FEMA forms.
I set a concrete monument with a brass disk about half foot under sod and covered with a sculptured landscaping casting at a same zone by a boat ramp and gave the HOA the OPUS data sheet.
Bill93, post: 378634, member: 87 wrote: If you can talk them out of iron above ground, my preference would be iron rods well below the surface with gray PVC capped pipe slipped over the rod and protruding above the surface.
This has been suggested as an option where I work. My concern would be the pins could be easily displaced with the PVC acting as a lever.
Go to Home Depot and buy some 2" galvanized pipe, set it at the corner(s) and pound it or cut it to your clients desired height. It makes no difference if the corner sticks out of the ground or not.
A 4' long, 2" heavy wall pipe driven directly over the iron halfway into the ground. If you take pride in your work, you make sure it's straight up and down every time you let someone else take a swing at it.
Ben Purvis, post: 378466, member: 363 wrote: A builder has requested permanent above ground markers for the property corners that are buried and I'm looking for some suggestions as to what others are using. He suggested the T Posts for wire fencing but that would get extremely unappealing in a neighborhood very quickly which I pointed out to him. I personally don't like the idea for a number of reasons the least of which is that I believe it will create more problems than it will solve.
Edit....I forgot to mention that he wants them to be steel so mowers don't destroy them. I had suggested PVC to no avail.
Who cares if you think they're ugly? If he wants "T" posts, drive the "T" post.
I hate driving them so we use 5' long 1/2" rebar we cut at the office, when we are requested for something like this.
