> ... if the rod gets too mushroomed I just cut it off with a saw.
>
Better yet, use a drive cap on the rod, such as Surv-Kap sells. The rod will have nice, rounded edges on the hammered end, ready to receive an aluminum cap with no filing or fussing (assuming that you bought rods that didn't have ribs sticking out too much for the cap to seat well).
My grandfather referred to these kinda pipes as "petaled". In Northwest Ohio, they were set along a boundary line, but never as a property corner. I still have not figured out how they got the "petals" so perfect.
(assuming that you bought rods that didn't have ribs sticking out too much for the cap to seat well).
I get the rebar with one end pointed and one end beveled. That makes the cap seat tight on the rebar.
I have a driving cap, but for rebar I don't need it, it's rare that the rebar mushrooms enough that something has to be done to it and then it's usually too high and needs the saw.
I also have a driver for the aluminum rods that surv-kap sells but I don't use it either-those I just saw off. If there is snow the saw eats right through the almuinum rod. If it's hot and dry then it takes a while.
Driving pins flush?
Louisiana law requires that, when possible, corners are to be set flush with the ground.
> I get the rebar with one end pointed and one end beveled. That makes the cap seat tight on the rebar.
I wonder whether you mean by "beveled" that the end that gets hammered is cut on a slant, not square with the rod. It's hard for me to imagine that as a good way to cut rods for an aluminum cap.
A cap with plastic insert can be affixed perfectly well to a rebar with a square-cut end as long as the ribs running along the bar don't stick out so much that they are what the cap engages. The way I avoid that one is to look at the rebar at the yard and make sure that it is nominally round, without ribs that project further than the deformations do.
> I have a driving cap, but for rebar I don't need it, it's rare that the rebar mushrooms enough that something has to be done to it and then it's usually too high and needs the saw.
I think anyone else will find that the drive cap is a very useful addition to the tool kit since it leaves the top edges rounded and ready for a cap with no tinkering required.
I wonder whether you mean by "beveled" that the end that gets hammered is cut on a slant, not square with the rod. It's hard for me to imagine that as a good way to cut rods for an aluminum cap.
They aren't cut on a slant, they are cut square-then the top is beveled.
That way they don't mushroom, or if they do a bit it doesn't matter.
Same with the aluminum rods-they come beveled-and for those the caps don't have a plastic insert, those caps are shaped to accept the rod.
> They aren't cut on a slant, they are cut square-then the top is beveled.
>
> That way they don't mushroom, or if they do a bit it doesn't matter.
Ah, the edge of the cut end is beveled. That makes sense. Just as a point of practice, that isn't necessary if you use a drive cap. You can cut a #5 bar to length in the field, drive it with the drive cap and the Surv-Kap aluminum cap with plastic insert will install on it just fine. The one thing to look for is to buy rebar that don't have ribs that stick out further than the deformations on the bars.
Think of a bevel like an autocad chamfer. Beveling is common on most pins used in machinery. Essentially for the same reason MightyMoe does it for; to aviod creating a bur when the pin is driven
Driving pins flush?
I've noticed that monuments that are set flush or a few tenths below surface are not as prone to be disturbed or disappear as often as those exposed above the surface.
If you need something to look at from a distance, that is what pin flags and Tpost are for.
I've had a hacksaw in my truck for 40yrs
A few tools on my wishlist are:
18v angle grinder
and/or
18v cuts all saw
0.02
Driving pins flush?
Like this?
Works fine as you can see. Then clean out the top 4 inches, mix a little concrete and put a new, stemmed cap on it.
