More printed surveying models

that is really really cool, Norm.

I don't suppose you can make any surveying "action figures" to go with it?;-)

If so, I want a Kent McMillan and LR Day Action Figure

I'll need an RTK rover for my Kent McMillan action figure though.

sorry. didn't mean to hijack. It is really cool and amazing you got the threads to work!

If so, I want a Kent McMillan and LR Day Action Figure

I don't do people ...

Actually it would be very easy to do, just laser scan to print. I have already done it, it is a little painful though. Drape the scans with HDR photos and print in full color

I watched an add for the "Box Trolls" the other night and it was faily obvious how they were using 3D printing to make a stop action movie. We would just have to print up many with different facial expression and then stop action your way to a surveying movie ...

If so, I want a Kent McMillan and LR Day Action Figure

🙂

Making a stop motion movie from 3d printing! Wow. Sounds very labor and time intensive.

I'll definitely want a Kungfu grip option.

I dyed the pieces today. The T3 is a combination of two dyes and looks much better to me.

Dyed the legs

Dyed the Model 6 and tried a new technique. Let's just say it was less than successful ...

OK, the tripod is very cool. It slips and falls down on slick surfaces just like a real one. Now if I can just figure out how to tighten the screw head for the print. I am going to shim this one.

Ordered up some new colors for the Model 6 and the HDS6200 and will re-dye them as they are truly hideous.

That's insane. So cool.

Thanks Shawn!

Old eyes and big fingers made creating this so much harder than just ordering a print ...

Took a while, but, I found a spot to put this large thing ...

Wow! Awesome.

(Did you ever move forward with a bottle-opener idea?)

Didn't like the rendition that I came up with and placed it on the back burner until I got some inspiration. To say the least, that never appeared. Bottom line, nothing yet ...

Not sure about the difficulty of producing these awesome replicas. But I have a feeling you could sale these. I know I am interested in one for my boss.

Scott, I have them for sale on Shapeways as I do all of my models. Honestly, I have no interest in getting the models in my hand, dying them, creating the leg chains and sealing the models. If someone else wants to do that and charge for their time accordingly, I will help as much as they need with questions.

To make the T3 on the tripod you would need:

The 1/4 scale T3 http://shpws.me/pRJX $38.07
The 1/4 scale Wild T30 tripod http://shpws.me/pLtx $55.56

You would also need Jacquardi iDye Poly dye for Green (452), Yellow (447) and Orange (448) to match what I did. They also sell a Kelly Green and a Golden Yellow that I would try next time. They can be had at http://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/idye-for-natural-and-poly-fabrics.html The dyed plastic needs to then be sealed and I use Pledge Multi surface floor care because it has "future" acrylic floor shine in it. They quit advertising the "future" part, but, it is in the text http://tinyurl.com/mfsr4ok

As far as the feet chains, the three pads are printed with the legs and for the center ring I got a 12 mm center ring from Michael's along with 4mm attachment rings and some chain from the beading dept. The feet have holes pre-printed in them for very small eyelets and I bought some at Michael's that I was able to push in with some small pliers

The screw does screw into the bottom of the T3, but, there is too much gap for it to tighten down. I am afraid to go for it too. You could shim the mechanism with something from Michael's, I am leaving mine the way it is. I have it on my desk screwed in and it definitely keeps it from falling off, but, it isn't solidly attached. You can see the gap in the picture above where it is laying on its side.

Hi, really interested on your models and battery covers. I love it when DIY and hobbies take on a new technology level. I was wondering if I could pick your brains about a project of my own?

I need an adapter for taking the prism off the pole to use as a mini-prism, or on top of pegs etc; The prism and pole are 5/8" thread so I got some cheap adapters to the Leica bayonet fitting to use as a quick release. The thread "genders" are the wrong way though so it would involve a whole stack of adapters that add too much to the length of the pole.

I was looking to get these made in brass but struggling to find someone with a lathe to do it at a reasonable price. Then the light bulb moment! - would the 3D printing plastic be strong enough? I've got the design made up (see below - grid is 5mm) and I'm thinking of using these guys - http://www.3dprint-uk.co.uk/

They print in nylon which I think should be strong enough and not too flexible.
The button and spring loaded plunger from the Leica quick release I will steal from the cheap aluminium adapter I've got already. I've basically copied the measurements from this but thickened it up a bit in places.

I've "cut the threads" in AutoCAD but I could just used a hand tap afterwards. They way I'm thinking is that the threads don't have to be that strong though - they just need to go on once so the pole and prism should finish off cutting them if required.

Would be glad to know what you think of the project.

I didn't think I was easily impressed but this stuff is off the hook.

:good: Way too cool!

You will find that laser sintered nylon (SLS) is both strong enough and your cheapest option. I am going to price a few models from that company you posted, they appear to be a great option.

Two things about threads. First Helicoil them. The only way you want to use nylon on metal is for something that is used very rarely. My gear knobs are not Helicoiled as I place them on and leave them. They are an M10 x 1.50 and I just print the hole to the drill diameter and then cut them afterward. I don't pre-print them. Second, if you are going to print threads leave a little to be removed by chasing them. The points of the threads might cause the printing people issues and you may need to do some small fillets for them. They will not want some splatter that they have to filter out as can sometimes happen when you do a very sharp angle. Easy way to do it is a thicken on the faces and then a quick revolve to create flat spots where the peaks were. Then just chase them and make them right when you have them.

Cool project, keep us posted

and another thing ...

Don't copy the aluminum design as far as thickness, aluminum is about 2.5 to 3 times stronger than nylon in shear strength. Fillet more so that are no shear lines of sharp material. Keep your design so that you have at least 4mm of material clear of Helicoil or any thing else, but, I would use 5mm. Anything above 4mm is almost a solid with almost no flex

Thanks for the advice I'm really getting into this now! Probably I'll start "printing" everything I can think of...

The firm I linked to seem to be really cheap. They were just the first one I stumbled across by googling. My part is only £24 ($40) delivered. I could easily spend that on just one adapter. As you've probably seen they charge by the total volume of the "bounding box", but at a cheap rate (only $0.16 per cm3 compared to $1.40 per actual cm3 used at shapeworks). So for a fairly solid item like mine it's a great deal.

So I am wondering - how would the helicoils fix in place? Do they cut themselves in, or do they need glue? I would need an external and an internal one.

For the price I am tempted to try it just with nylon threads and see how they come out. I should only be putting them on once. ooh just thought - I should probably put some spanner flats on. I'll use PTFE tape or even thread lock tape I think to give more grip.
I have filleted the tops and bottoms of the threads as per the BSW spec

Thanks again I'll definitely keep you posted.