How near to the line of sight would someone have to take near objects into consideration? I have read that the Leica reflectorless is the best, and I have been disappointed by the Trimble directreflex before. The gun is a Leica TS02 power model. I've never used it before & just want to know what to look out for.
thanks
Adam, I use the 1105 TCR leica.
I am not sure if I understand your Q, but when I'm using the reflectorless I will turn the light on to check my sight visually and make sure that the red dot is where I want it.
I also make it a habit to zoom in and out to check the site through the scope and look for obstructions.
Also, when taking the shot the gun will flash a red dot at the point of the acquired shot.
If I'm doing topo at a house I'll place a piece of tape at a fixed height, say 5', so i can get elevations.
As for the width needed to view and acquire a shot I'd say not more than 1/2" is necessary, maybe even less.. I do make sure that the distance makes sense, because any interference is usually very obvious!!
Dtp
> How near to the line of sight would someone have to take near objects into consideration? I have read that the Leica reflectorless is the best, and I have been disappointed by the Trimble directreflex before. The gun is a Leica TS02 power model. I've never used it before & just want to know what to look out for.
be suspicious when measuring through foreground traffic. the inst doesn't always filter bad distances. maybe take two separate shots per intended mark. i had to take a second trip out to a bridge as built as a result of a few bad distances
Leica Reflectorless> I forgot to mention
When the light is switched on, or when you take a shot in reflector-less mode, the red dot is NOT visible through the scope. That's kind of irritating..
I remember shooting a distance with an old top-mount EDM. We set up down the road and shot just below a stop sign to get the angle.
What I didn't realize was that the top-mount raised the line of sight just enough to catch the sign, instead of the prism.
I was looking right at the prism in the telescope, but getting a very different distance than I expected from the EDM (the sign was only about 40% of the distance away from me, so it was really easy to notice.
Now of course we don't have top-mount EDM's anymore, but the moral of the story is be aware of what your expected distance is supposed to be.
As to the visual of the red dot, I suspect that Leica has a filter on the eyepiece to prevent inadvertent reflection back into the system, and possible burnout. That is also a reason why you are not supposed to shoot towards highly reflective surfaces, or shoot through glass.....at least not at a head-on angle.
the red dot is really handy, particularly when shooting bearing tree tags in the deep dark woods. Sometimes I go back and forth because I can't see the tag from the instrument.
Leica Reflectorless> I forgot to mention
Not as bad as it being the last thing you look at, if you were to aim it at a prism with it on. I'll take the filter.
Ask you local Leica Dealer to demo it for you and/or for a Leica PinPoint comparison card to test it or any other reflectorless EDM.
Adam, I believe with the leica 1100 and 1200 (1200 for certain) your beam is conical and ovular(?) in cross-section. The manual will give you the specifications of the divergance of the beam in milli or microgons with a major and minor axis.
It's been awhile but a quick calculator check of the specs showed me 3" or 5" spread at roughly 600'.
I think your calcs are wrong? Per Leica's website the beam is approx 7mm @ 30m and 8mm @ 50m this would equal 0.065' at 1000'.
I know from experience that the Trimble reflectorless is accurate, if you know it's limitations. The Leica laser is pulse technology, meaning far less spread than the Trimble (phase technology). If you read the user's manual for the trimble, it even warns that if you are shooting an outside corner, the beam diverges and you will get an average distance within the divergence, etc....
I was just wondering if anyone knew of any limitations that they had experienced in the field.
Adam,
My calculations were done with an HP handheld using the specs from the manual for either the 1100 series or the 1200 series (i don't recall which).
I don't have the manual handy and maybe someone will chime in with the details. I can't help you any more than this but, I don't think a couple of inches more or less will be the issue for you.
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I use a Leica 1205 and when using the reflectorless feature, I always double or triple shoot items just to make sure I hitting what I want and not some branch in between.
When locating building walls, I shoot the plane of the walls and not the actual corner. Between 3-4 shots along the plane, plus a measured Disto dimension, I then do the shot intersections in CADD and check the CADD wall dimension against the Disto distance. The usually agree within .02-.04 feet. Most times they are right on the money.