I'm using Bosch demolition hammer with a 1"SDS Max Rotary Hammer Bit to drill a hole for a 3/4" pipe. Usually 2 out of 3 times the bit get stuck and I waste time to get it out. What am I doing wrong? is there a better way like driving the pipe?
I'm using Bosch demolition hammer with a 1"SDS Max Rotary Hammer Bit to drill a hole for a 3/4" pipe. Usually 2 out of 3 timcones the bit get stuck and I waste time to get it out. What am I doing wrong? is there a better way like driving the pipe?
Hammer drill with a 1" Concrete bit should work okay.?ÿ I haven't had problems with a 3/4" hammer drill.?ÿ
If your bit is getting stuck, as it drills down rock, or circle it around about 15d.?ÿ It will ream the hole out just a little as the bit goes down.?ÿ You don't want to do that too much as it won't clear the dust out and that can then get the bit stuck on it's own.?ÿ You may need to stop now and then and blow the hole out.?ÿ It may just be time for a new bit.
You have to let the tool do the work and just be patient and simply hold it and not try and force it cause it is not gonna go any faster.
Been using a DeWalt battery vacuum to suck the dust and bigger particles out or plug it in the other end and blow the dust out.
Sometimes it takes a second drilling and cleaning out to complete the job.
It's best to drive them, before the concrete hardens...
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It's best to drive them, before the concrete hardens...
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I'm setting property corner on a metal fence post concrete footing.
There are only a few reasons a hammer drill gets stuck. You may be hitting large aggregate or rebar. More likely you are forcing the tool or running a dull bit.?ÿ
Hammer drills are sensitive to too much or too little pressure. Most can be ruined in short order with a little 'prying' action or sideways pressure. Pulling back on the drill while running in hammer mode will kill it too.
Certain mixes of concrete will cause a bit to bind more often. A water kit might help, but mostly it's patience.
Oh yeah, where at least a dust mask. Silicosis sucks...
It's best to drive them, before the concrete hardens...
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I'm setting property corner on a metal fence post concrete footing.
Ok ok, now I get it. Thanks
take your time. Pull the drill up now and again to blow the dust out.
Also start with a smaller bit like 1/2" or 3/8" and then progress onto your 3/4 bit"
I have used a 10 lb sledge, and destroyed concrete, to set a corner before...
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I have used a 10 lb sledge, and destroyed concrete, to set a corner before...
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Destroyed? I just need to drill a hole to drive the pipe flat with the surface.
Mr. @sarkiss, I admit what you are getting at.
I'm admitting that I got a big hammer, instead of your solution. Many times, it was simply a spot where the cement truck was cleaned out... So my method was ok. But, you have got me stinking.... Um thinking!
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Is a pipe needed for that location??ÿ Does your area have customs or provisions for setting other types of monuments??ÿ In Oregon, ORS 92.060(3) allows for other types of monuments.
(3) All lot and parcel corners except lot corners of cemetery lots must be marked with monuments of either galvanized iron pipe not less than one-half inch inside diameter or iron or steel rods not less than five-eighths inch in least dimension and not less than 24 inches long. When setting a required monument is impracticable under the circumstances:
?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ (a) The surveyor may set another type of monument; or
?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ?ÿ (b) The county surveyor may waive the setting of the monument.
See 92.060(3): https://www.oregonlaws.org/ors/92.060
As Nate was saying. putting a hammer to the footing does work.?ÿ
You can also drive a 5/8"ir ?ÿthrough most footings around here.?ÿ
I should have edited that. In my mind I'm picturing a residential corner fence post, which are mostly six to eight foot wood fences, and sometimes chain link.?ÿ
carry on
