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Hi,
I'm very new to this site but I'm glad it exists. I have Leica TS12 (with Bluetooth com handle) that I use with Carlson Surveyor+ data collector and running field genius8 on it. In the previous company I worked for, they used Parani SD1000 and I also know their IT department had to do some settings on the dongle and may be the data collector too. I'm not with that firm anymore so can't really ask them.
I bought Parani SD200 (RS232 connect) and when I connect it to the com port (either one) it doesn't even draw power to show the green light on it.
Then I bought UD100 thinking USB might do it, still not sure how can I use it or pair it.
The data collector has bluetooth that I want to connect to UD100 which communicates with the bluetooth handle of Leica TS12. So confusing, not sure where to start.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Marc
I suggest that you start with the https://update.carlsonsw.com/kbase_attach/888/Parani%20SD1000U_Geomax%20LR-BT_Quickstart%20Guide%20V4.pdf&apos ;">Carlson Parani GeoMax guide. This document deals with the GeoMax LRBT handle, but as far as I know it's the same as the Leica version.
Powering the Parani SD1000 from the Surveyor+ is a little trickier. Juniper Systems (the manufacturer of the TK6000, aka Surveyor+) ran +5v to pin 4 of COM1, but the Parani wants +5v on pin 9. Furthermore, the TK6000 manual cautions that pin 4 can exceed 5v on startup, so it seems prudent to insert a Schottky diode into the circuit to limit the voltage (see diagram below). That's what I did when I rigged my SD1000, but I housed mine in a box attached to the body of the Surveyor+ to provide more mechanical protection that is available by plugging the Parani directly into the COM port. Doing the latter makes it harder to rig the power connection.
That's great thanks. Now I gotta find someone who can make that happen for the SD200. I figured UD100 would be easier, since its straight USB and the link doesn't help me with it. Bluesoleil website isn't descriptive enough either. How can I pair UD100? is there any link to carlsonsw where they have addressed this issue?
thanks
Isn't the SD1000U just an updated version of the SD100U? I would expect that the connection parameters are the same.
Jim Frame, post: 378225, member: 10 wrote: Isn't the SD1000U just an updated version of the SD100U? I would expect that the connection parameters are the same.
im not sure about the SD100U, I have UD100 which is a USB without the DIP switches and stuff, and runs off bluesoleil, another point of confusion for me.
Aslamzadeh, post: 378227, member: 11842 wrote: bluesoleil, another point of confusion for me.
You and me both. I hadn't heard of Bluesoleil before today, and a cursory reading leaves me a little uncertain of just what it is. But I *think* it's just a BT driver (and maybe configuration software), so I'm optimistic that the connection parameters will be the same as the serial Parani devices.
Probably the best way to find out is to try it!
Does the SD200 have screws to open it, is it the two golden ones?
Jim Frame, post: 378229, member: 10 wrote: You and me both. I hadn't heard of Bluesoleil before today, and a cursory reading leaves me a little uncertain of just what it is. But I *think* it's just a BT driver (and maybe configuration software), so I'm optimistic that the connection parameters will be the same as the serial Parani devices.
Prob
ably the best way to find out is to try it!
So I got someone to switch the power from pin4 to pin9, now another problem remains, I don't have the cable for SD200 to connect it to the computer to get to paraniwin. Does anyone know what they're called and where I can get them?
thanks
The SD100 and SD1000 use 9-pin serial, but whether standard or null modem I don't recall. The Parani documentation should clarify this.
Jim Frame, post: 378663, member: 10 wrote: The SD100 and SD1000 use 9-pin serial, but whether standard or null modem I don't recall. The Parani documentation should clarify this.
Oh I'm talking about the little hole on the side that connects to the computer (USB on one end and a pin on the other)
Aslamzadeh, post: 378664, member: 11842 wrote: Oh I'm talking about the little hole on the side that connects to the computer (USB on one end and a pin on the other)
Are you sure you're not looking at the external power port? All the Parani models that I've seen have a coaxial DC socket (it takes a mini barrel plug) for external power, but there aren't any communication lines on it.
Jim Frame, post: 378685, member: 10 wrote: Are you sure you're not looking at the external power port? All the Parani models that I've seen have a coaxial DC socket (it takes a mini barrel plug) for external power, but there aren't any communication lines on it.
Yes you are right, thanks a lot.
Jim Frame, post: 378685, member: 10 wrote: Are you sure you're not looking at the external power port? All the Parani models that I've seen have a coaxial DC socket (it takes a mini barrel plug) for external power, but there aren't any communication lines on it.
Hi Jim,
So I switched the pin4 to pin9 on the dongle and when connected to com port it does draw power. Then I went and got me an RS232 to usb adapter, hooked it to the computer and got paraniwin software. But the program doesn't detect the dongle at all. The adapter is Insignia (sold at best buy). What am I doing wrong and why does it have to be this complicated?
thanks
Aslamzadeh, post: 379038, member: 11842 wrote: But the program doesn't detect the dongle at all.
There are lots of potential failure points in this exercise, but the first thing I'd look at is the USB-to-serial adapter. In my experience, the only ones that work reliably have genuine FTDI chipsets. The Promise and other chips seem to be much more likely not to work. It's worth spending a few extra dollars to get one with the FTDI chipset.
Jim Frame, post: 379051, member: 10 wrote: There are lots of potential failure points in this exercise, but the first thing I'd look at is the USB-to-serial adapter. In my experience, the only ones that work reliably have genuine FTDI chipsets. The Promise and other chips seem to be much more likely not to work. It's worth spending a few extra dollars to get one with the FTDI chipset.
thats strange because the adapter I got is for $50 while the one with FTDI is a lot cheaper. Guess I'm going to have to return it. Also I want to make sure
1) it has nothing to do with me switching the pins for power before configuring it,
2) if I need power adapter to it while connected to the computer
Aslamzadeh, post: 379067, member: 11842 wrote:
1) it has nothing to do with me switching the pins for power before configuring it
It might, because the Parani has DSR on pin 4. I don't know if DSR is needed for communication with ParaniWin.
2) if I need power adapter to it while connected to the computer
Likely. The Parani expects +5v on pin 9, which is now DSR on your unit, and it seems unlikely that the PC is putting +5v on pin 4 (your pin 9).
When I first read that you had someone switch the internal Parani pin connection I thought, "Ugh, that's opening a can of worms." If it were me, I'd have built an adapter to make the switch, kind of like a null modem adapter but for power.
Hi All
i have a TS 12 with the blue tooth handle viva and it works great to our 3 Carlson surveyor plus at about 600 ft international foot not USA foot
why is this post exists is beyond the responses above.
Suggest stop wasting your time with Parani and contact Leica for software to connect properly to the TS 12 using Carlson surveyor +
yes there is a cost but "Geo code " i am sort of satisfied with the relationship between Leica and Carlson but there is some work
for the future much work for Leica and Carlson...
Peter
Peter Kozub, post: 379100, member: 375 wrote:
Yeah i am already working with bluetooth handle of TS-12 with my carlson surveyor+, but it disconnects when i go upto 150m or more, i wanted the parani to boost the bluetooth of my data collector.
Peter Kozub, post: 379100, member: 375 wrote: about 600 ft international foot not USA foot
The difference being a whopping 0.0004 foot!
Hi All
i would like to suggest using rtk
at about 150 meters out comes the rtk gps and the robot is parked
in most situations industrial bolts concrete and machine layout i dread going beyond
100 meters due to air quality and at 200 meters i reach for RTK.
at 200 meters air quality reduces a 1 second robot to a 5 second instrument so it
may be far easier to use gps rtk and set the critical shots with a 10 shot average
rtk on a well adjusted rod.
In summary if it is wide open good robot go gps rtk is more for far less effort
big +-3 mm control over 200 meters is done at night and seems to take
8 hours to set concrete comtrol 5 points a heck of a lot of work unless the job
will be better. kind of dread busting out the robot slow heavy painful maybe im kind of like
gone gps lazy +- 10mm.
just poking fun at us ft versus intr ft
Pete
