KevinFoshee, post: 437167, member: 8314 wrote: I've had a terrible time excavating around them in our rocky soil to get flagging on them.
That is what pin flags are for............
Kevin, I recommend one of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Estwing-25-in-Geo-Paleo-Pick-Blades-GP100/203075897
Their quality is second to none.
N
Joe W. Byrd, post: 437039, member: 10015 wrote: I have been using them for about 4 years and will continue to. I order 1000 at a time and they are around 80 cents each and have had much better luck that with plastic caps. I have went back on surveys that were performed 2 - 3 years a go and can still read the laser etching on the top. We have started to grind a bevel on top of our rebar that makes it easier to start the cap, but that is done during rain out days while the guys are cutting the rebar to length.
By what method do they grip they rebar?
Just A. Surveyor, post: 437221, member: 12855 wrote: By what method do they grip they rebar?
My guess is with their hands. That's what I'd do if I was using a bench grinder.
But if you use a rebar drive cap you don't need to grind a bevel, because the drive cap creates a nice smooth one during the driving process.
Jim Frame, post: 437226, member: 10 wrote: My guess is with their hands. That's what I'd do if I was using a bench grinder.
But if you use a rebar drive cap you don't need to grind a bevel, because the drive cap creates a nice smooth one during the driving process.
Ya know Jim I never would have guessed that someone would respond that way but I guess I asked for it by not being very specific.
I was referring to the laser etched caps from Bathey. They do not appear to have a plastic insert so I'm curious on how they grip the rebar.
FWIW, I took it the same way Jim did.
Just A. Surveyor, post: 437228, member: 12855 wrote: Ya know Jim I never would have guessed that someone would respond that way but I guess I asked for it by not being very specific.
I was referring to the laser etched caps from Bathey. They do not appear to have a plastic insert so I'm curious on how they grip the rebar.
You can look at the picture on the website. On each side of the "stem" there is an indention. We use these caps, and I tested them first. You put one of those caps on a 5/8" rebar, and you have to beat it off with a hammer. It holds suprisingly well. The reason I like these caps is there is no worry about corrosion like with aluminum or brass caps, because stainless steel is still iron. You don't need the plastic insert.
TXSurveyor, post: 437082, member: 6719 wrote: Thanks for letting us know. I looked for awhile for lime green caps, and never found any when we went in business. Everyone in my area sets yellow, orange or red (one guy sets maroon because he is an Aggie grad). We wanted something different, but we settled on orange. I'm thinking we will switch to green on the next order.
I only know of 2 surveyors to set aluminum caps in our area. One retired probably 20 years ago the other 10. Their caps have always been hard to read, that's one of the main reasons I never wanted aluminum.
I do leave caps above ground a tenth or so when around wire or steel post.
On a side note I found a plastic cap( not sure of brand) that was 15 years old that was sun rotted and could make out the name and number. I took a pic with my phone within a foot of the cap and zoomed in and was able to make out the name and number.
I would love to post a pic but I found this uncalled for rod about 12' from a buried called for axle and the only info I can get from the surveyor that set the rod is he did that survey 15 years ago and that file is archived in a storage unit.
Funny you mention maroon, I bought maroon for my first state(nd) being a U of Montana fan. I will probably never set one there, but looking back they aren't the best color to use. I think pink should be more widely used. Can't miss em. 🙂
Tommy Young, post: 437235, member: 703 wrote: The reason I like these caps is there is no worry about corrosion like with aluminum or brass caps, because stainless steel is still iron. You don't need the plastic insert.
Galvanic corrosion isn't that simple, and it can happen when stainless steel is in contact with non-stainless steel. A lot depends on which material is the anode, which is the cathode, and their respective masses. Small anode large cathode is the troublesome condition.
Tommy Young, post: 437235, member: 703 wrote: You can look at the picture on the website. On each side of the "stem" there is an indention. We use these caps, and I tested them first. You put one of those caps on a 5/8" rebar, and you have to beat it off with a hammer. It holds suprisingly well. The reason I like these caps is there is no worry about corrosion like with aluminum or brass caps, because stainless steel is still iron. You don't need the plastic insert.
I second what Tommy said. The caps are sized to just barely fit on the rebar and the tabs on the sides of the cap grip the ridges of the rebar. Once the caps are put on, it is very difficult to get off.
Jim Frame, post: 437226, member: 10 wrote: But if you use a rebar drive cap you don't need to grind a bevel, because the drive cap creates a nice smooth one during the driving process.
When we cut the rebar, it puts a "burr" around the edge that makes it very difficult to get the cap on. The stainless cap will not stretch, so it makes it much easier to put a bevel on the rod. We use a drive cap but it it is much easier to spend a few minutes with the grinder.
Jim Frame, post: 437248, member: 10 wrote: Galvanic corrosion isn't that simple, and it can happen when stainless steel is in contact with non-stainless steel. A lot depends on which material is the anode, which is the cathode, and their respective masses. Small anode large cathode is the troublesome condition.
I don't understand the process at all and was told that it occurred when different metals made contact.
I bevel the ends so as to not be cut by sharp edges and it does not cut into the caps or keep it from being able to fit the rebar.
Just use one of these on top of your rebar when you drive it. Gets rid of any burrs/sharp edges and creates a bevel.
I'm glad some of you have enough time to grind the end on each rebar.
Tommy Young, post: 437436, member: 703 wrote: I'm glad some of you have enough time to grind the end on each rebar.
Or have enough time to cut their own rebar! [SARCASM]Ain't nobobdy got time for dat![/SARCASM]
Using a bench grinder it does not take long to grind each end of 100 pieces of rebar. Hit it and rotate the bar twice and it is ready for the next end.
The next step, I paint 0.75ft of one end with Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover Real orange glossy.