> That sounds like a good idea, but I've seen too many punched aluminum caps lying in the dirt next to the re-bar. At that point, the punch means nothing, and the center of rod is located.
Very good point.
Speaking of which, any suggestions for making the aluminum cap stay where I place it? Thought of using an epoxy compound or the like but not tried it yet. I do know those plastic inserts the caps come with are worthless for the most part.
> I do know those plastic inserts the caps come with are worthless for the most part.
That definitely does not describe my experience with the Surv-Kap aluminum caps with plastic inserts. Preparation of the rod and using a drive cap when it is pounded are essential ingredients of a good installation, however. If either is ignored, yes, you will have problems.
Ditto. I've not had one come loose yet. We set ours to be read with north up. If the cap comes off it can be replaced correctly with relative ease and reliability.
Placing the monument is our last variable in the error budget. The type and method is driven by the particulars at the corner. Use your judgment and set something that allows you to look in the mirror. It's not that hard...
Kent & bionicman
Apparently based on your comments I am doing something wrong. I ordered the 1.5" aluminum caps for 5/8" rebar and they don't stick and/or are loose and wobbly. I use a stake as a pounding buffer with my 3 lb. sledge. I am searching for my order paper work to make sure I got what I ordered, my only thought is that the caps are for a bigger rebar, maybe. It's time to get some new rebar so if that is the problem I can make the correction there.
Kent & bionicman
> Apparently based on your comments I am doing something wrong. I ordered the 1.5" aluminum caps for 5/8" rebar and they don't stick and/or are loose and wobbly. I use a stake as a pounding buffer with my 3 lb. sledge.
If you don't have a drive cap that fits over the top end of the rebar as you pound it down, I'd strongly recommend buying one. It leaves a very clean end to affix the cap to.
When you drive the cap onto the rod, the best trick I know is to use another cap, plastic insert removed, upside down on the cap to be affixed to the rod. You can reuse the other cap hundreds of times. I find it works better than the machined aluminum thingy with a handle sold for the same purpose.
> I am searching for my order paper work to make sure I got what I ordered, my only thought is that the caps are for a bigger rebar, maybe. It's time to get some new rebar so if that is the problem I can make the correction there.
I've noticed that not all manufacturers's aluminum caps with plastic inserts are created equal. On that project I mentioned where the plastic caps had split and degraded tremendously from the Texas weather in only ten years or so, the surveyor had used an aluminum cap with a hexagonal socket that was to receive the rebar, instead of the tapered cylindrical socket of the Surv-Kap units. The hexagonal socket caps did not appear to have performed exceptionally well, although the mechanics of installation may have played a factor, too.
Just set a bigger corner so that the position can be "massaged" inside the monument. A 2" iron pipe will work, but a 12" is better.
🙂
Kent & bionicman
Get a rubber mallet to pound the caps on. Doesn't hurt the caps at all.
I've needed to pull a few of these caps. They come off fairly easy. I've never seen one come off on its own but they can be pulled off without much trouble.
I use a cut off saw for the rebar and then taper the cut a bit on a bench grinder. If you push the rod straight into the grinding wheel it will form a U shape and after that you can grind the edges of the cut in no time. Just push it into the U and rotate the rebar. I do both ends so the cut won't cut me when handling.
Kent & bionicman
> Get a rubber mallet to pound the caps on. Doesn't hurt the caps at all.
Much easier just to use a spare cap upside down as the drive cap for setting the cap with the same hammer that the rod was driven with. One hammer, not two.
> I use a cut off saw for the rebar and then taper the cut a bit on a bench grinder. If you push the rod straight into the grinding wheel it will form a U shape and after that you can grind the edges of the cut in no time. Just push it into the U and rotate the rebar. I do both ends so the cut won't cut me when handling.
The grinding isn't necessary at all if you buy rebar that is sufficiently round to begin with, i.e. without longitudinal ribs projecting more than the transverse deformations. A drive cap of the sort that Surv-Kap sells, placed over the top end of the bar when it is pounded down, will round over the edges of the cut slightly.
Kent & bionicman
I use the drive caps and they will round the cuts. They round the cuts better if the bar is hard to drive. The grinding I find works better but does take additional effort. I don't mind packing the mallet, but should I forget I'll use your method. I have plenty of useless caps about from past projects that didn't use them all.
I've seen the rebar in the past with the extra large ribs. None I've bought the last few years have that issue but its always good the check before you purchase.
Yeah, and 5/8 rebar is costly. The best I've found is about $9.50 per 20 foot stick (steel store). Local hardware store is $13. I suppose there is no more 2-bit rebar. They are more like $2 rebar before all the cutting and such. The rebar is worth the same, it's the dollar that is worthless.
> Just set a bigger corner so that the position can be "massaged" inside the monument. A 2" iron pipe will work, but a 12" is better.
Kinda like when the actual location falls within the area of a manhole cover. I've seen many, and they all have multiple punch marks for when they (the surveyor) completed their "survey". But nobody ever set straddlers so the actual point could be found. So they just set yet another punch mark.
Now if we could just convince the public works guys to put the manhole cover back in the same place.... life would be good. :-/
They should put north arrows on manhole covers!