I've found many corners in the past
But this is a first
After control breakdown I returned to set the corner and found this
2-1/2"OD galvanized fence post
with a nail/tag in cap / 4ft above grade
I shot the nail directly and found it to be 0.20' from calculated

BTW- The post was fairly plum, but I could move it or lean it if I tried
Also, the cap was not fixed and a pair of channel locks could rotate cap
Also - no record survey on file
.
[sarcasm]I would imagine the addition of the wood fence post has added to the movement of the chain link fence corner post.[/sarcasm]
We had a similar experience;
I delivered my survey to the client. They thanked me, payed the bill and we all parted happy.
About a year later I get a telephone call from their attorney, who tells me that after I left, the client started digging around and low& behold, they found a rebar about 3 feet away from the corner that I set. In their favor. He even had photographs of the rebar. I was quite concerned and reviewed my job file. We had found 1" diameter iron pipes at four of my client's five corners. The original 1946 subdivision plan calls for "iron pipe set" at all of the corners of the 15 lots in the subdivision. I had performed the survey with my helper, who I trust with my life. We had pulled tape, used a metal detector, and done everything a good surveyor should do.
I called my client to inquire about the rebar. He told me that he had asked his neighbor if he knew where his corner was. "Sure do" was his reply. Who then got out his shovel, and uncovered the rebar. (The neighbor who showed my client the location of the only rebar, is an heir of the owner, and he lives out of state.)
We then returned to the site, expanded the survey, and found 3 more iron pipes,on adjacent lots, but no additional rebars. All the iron pipes fit the +- distances shown on the original plan within 0.35', or better. But the rebar only fit my client's frontage distance, within 0.10', but just happened to short the neighbor by 3'. So I revised my survey accordingly, even though I have real doubts about the origin of the rebar. My client and his neighbor agree that the rebar is the corner. I can't throw the neighbors into a fit by disregarding the rebar, just because I "think" it is not correct.
One thing that I didn't mention
is that the photo was taken
before I painted the post flo pink
I've marked posts the same way. It beats setting witness corners. I've watched fences erected to witness corners before. It seems land owners build to marker, without benefit of the survey map.
We have set large spikes in wood fence posts on a number of occasions. Sometimes we have also set bars as witness monuments near the true corner which falls inside the cross-section of the base of the post at ground level. It depends on the propensity for significant departure from plumb determined by evaluating the rigidity of the base and bracing.
In Kansas if we see a spike in a fence post, it typically is a reference to a corner. Our State's methods. Most often a Section Corner. A lot of our parcels are 1/4 sections or bigger in farming/ ranching areas.
this was a 37.5' x 132' parcel in the city
I think it was the best way to mark it. The surveyor ID Ring was perfect. Here if it's just a spike we think reference was my point. With Id we should call the Surveyor, or look for a map.
Looks like the guy did the best he could imo.
At least he set something instead of calling for the fence post.
In a congested subdivision where 4 back corners meet and each side has barking dogs and other things going on, I commend this guy for his effort.
Probably more than I would do.
Randy
I recently had a call for a witness corner that said "pk in cmp". I had never seen that before, but sure enough there was an 18" metal pipe with a pk driven through the top of it. I liked it because I had no doubt I had found the right marker.
I've encountered many fence posts at the postion. If metal, I'll wire on a brass tag, if wood I'll drive a 6" spike in the top with tag. As an option to either set a monument on a 1' offset along each P/L, but its easier just to tag the post.
I found the same situation several months ago. The tag was set on the fence post cap exactly like your picture. The post was not plumb, so the best we could do was offset a shot to the center of the post at ground level. This is not only an unstable setting but the cap could be taken off the post at at any time.