Tripod quest

Aluminum transfers vibration too much for me. The accelerometer in a trimble robot will go insane if you try using it...

Mapman, post: 394371, member: 6096 wrote: Looking at getting lighter weight tripods.

I've gone in the other direction - I bought a Nedo fixed-leg tripod for leveling. It's not *quite* as beefy as the Leica, but it's pretty close and was a couple hundred bucks cheaper. (I don't do much leveling anymore, but when I do it's usually Second Order Class II, so a fixie is pretty much required.)

I use a Trimax for my robot, and I have a couple of Leica GST-20s when I need a fixed backsight (which isn't often).

I still have a cheapie Topcon aluminum tripod, but I haven't used it in years.

When I am running control and can drive to the setup by truck or ATV, I use an all fiberglass with aluminum and stainless hardware tripod with quick clamp and thumb screw to hold legs in place and has a gigantic round head to accommodate any instrument. It is very stable and very heavy.

On those jaunts thru the forest to mark a straight line with tpost or to locate that obscured fence line I use a lightweight aluminum tripod made from aircraft grade aluminum that is sturdy enough for my Sokkia Set330R.

I don't want any wood products on my tripod. They take constant maintenance and any little unprotected surface will allow moisture into the wood and that is not a good thing.

Dutch Hill is a great, light tripod IMO. The are composite material of some kind. One thing I don't like about them is that they don't have any way to tie the legs together for transport. Also, you may have to make sure and set legs wide when using a robot, because of the weight, but I think that is true with all tripods except for the extra heavy Crane, or the like.

Guy Townes, post: 394386, member: 11463 wrote: Dutch Hill is a great, light tripod IMO. The are composite material of some kind. One thing I don't like about them is that they don't have any way to tie the legs together for transport. Also, you may have to make sure and set legs wide when using a robot, because of the weight, but I think that is true with all tripods except for the extra heavy Crane, or the like.

I do love the Dutch Hill tripods. Have used them for years. Good compromise between weight, sturdiness and durability. I carry around a couple light weight Seco aluminum tripods for back sights and other light duty, a Trimax for the robot, but the Dutch Hill is my go to tripod that seems to hold up well for most everything. Only thing I won't use it for is the robot.

Dutch Hill is also susceptible to expansion/contraction during certain times of the year.
When I first noticed it, it was early in the morning one cold winter day.
I was running trig levels and had a beer leg set up.
I sighted the target and recorded my readings. After writing them down, I got side tracked for a minute talking to someone.

The sun had come out and was hitting the beer leg.
I looked through the gun to take new readings and noticed that the cross hairs were about .1' above the center of the target!
I shaded the leg and watched the cross hairs start to slowly return to center.

I played around with letting the sun hit the leg and shading the leg. It was clear that a beer leg set up on a cold morning was not going to work for running trig levels.

Linear Thermal Coefficients
Aluminum = 22.2
Polyester Glass - Reinforced = 21.5
Wood -Fir = 3.0

Man - I hated sanding and painting wood legs - not to mention packing those heavy things through the mountains.

For GPS, Total Station, Robot or Level?

imaudigger, post: 394393, member: 7286 wrote: Dutch Hill is also susceptible to expansion/contraction during certain times of the year.
When I first noticed it, it was early in the morning one cold winter day.
I was running trig levels and had a beer leg set up.
I sighted the target and recorded my readings. After writing them down, I got side tracked for a minute talking to someone.

The sun had come out and was hitting the beer leg.
I looked through the gun to take new readings and noticed that the cross hairs were about .1' above the center of the target!
I shaded the leg and watched the cross hairs start to slowly return to center.

I played around with letting the sun hit the leg and shading the leg. It was clear that a beer leg set up on a cold morning was not going to work for running trig levels.

Linear Thermal Coefficients
Aluminum = 22.2
Polyester Glass - Reinforced = 21.5
Wood -Fir = 3.0

Man - I hated sanding and painting wood legs - not to mention packing those heavy things through the mountains.

Those thermal coefficients would explain why I've had trouble with my Trimax on crisp spring and fall days with intermittent clouds. Air temp of 45-55 degrees with the bright sun peeking in and out of the clouds seems to be the worst.

Mark Silver, post: 394399, member: 1087 wrote: For GPS, Total Station, Robot or Level?

Mostly for the TS. Have a Trimble tripod for that.

But as time goes on it seems to be getting heavier :unamused:. It has to be 20 plus lbs.

For backsite I have a cheapo aluminum that really doesn't move much if I let it acclimate before setting up.

I'm starting to like the cam-lock type of clamps. Have that on a Tri-max and the double clamping gives me assurance that there isn't any leg slip.

Stephen Ward, post: 394401, member: 1206 wrote: Those thermal coefficients would explain why I've had trouble with my Trimax on crisp spring and fall days with intermittent clouds. Air temp of 45-55 degrees with the bright sun peeking in and out of the clouds seems to be the worst.

I think in my case, the orientation of the legs relative to my measurement (zenith angle) amplified the effect.

In my opinion an aluminum tripod should not be used for anything other than a laser or automatic level. Neither of these turn angles and the twisting that happens to the aluminum doesn't affect their accuracy. If it is a back site, you really need to check it frequently as it will change throughout the day.
I know sacrificing weight for accuracy may seem like a good idea when looking up the mountain, but then again you only want to go up there one time.

I used cheap tripods for years....and I am never going back.

Trimax at day job
Leica for my own

I have yet to find a tripod I like more than the Leica GST120-9 with the self closing legs. It's very sturdy and its weight isn't too bad.

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imaudigger, post: 394393, member: 7286 wrote: the cross hairs were about .1' above the center of the target!
I shaded the leg and watched the cross hairs start to slowly return to center.

only one like for this finding ??, so many are concerned about angular and edm accuracies .... but no one about this discovery 😉

Tripods are like shoes for me.
I use what is appropriate for the situation.

My first survey mentor only allowed 3 minutes to setup, tie in several ties like fence and references and double the angle to the next hub.
We used a stationary set of wooden legs and a 30" Gurley.
Those legs were simple, setup and tighten the wingnuts firmly, center the instrument and it was a go.

When possible and I can get to the setup with my ATV I want my most sturdy and dependable.
If I have to hoof it a long ways, there better be a good reason to carry the heavy one like I am running control or will need to stay on target longer.
To set nearby points quickly or need to pack light I will use a good quality aluminum tripod.

It all depends upon whether the tripod will fit the setup.
I usually carry an all fiberglass SitePro and 3 or 4 aluminum tripods in my truck.

When I bought my robot, I got a Nedo, quick-clamp tripod. I was satisfied enough with it that I later bought two more identical tripods. They're not as heavy as a trimax, but I have had no complaints at all, and I always get good results in my work. They're a lot less expensive, too.

imaudigger, post: 394393, member: 7286 wrote: ... I hated sanding and painting wood legs.....

If your tripod legs start to "stick" do not sand them. That happens when they absorb moisture and swell. If you sand them down they will be too floppy in dry weather. Bring them inside to dry for a few days (over a weekend usually does it) instead.

I'm with Mark. Sanding is for woodworking, not repair prep. If you have to remove old finish use wood stripper. Seal it with something that repels water, but avoid anything varnish like.

If the original paint has been cleaned off your tripod due to simple wear and tear then it is probably time to just buy a new one. If you just can't do that rub it down with furniture wax. And keep reapplying every month or so while you save up.