The wind was blowing 25 MPH and I was pouring concrete. That combination is enough to make me mutter "I'm gettin' too old for this [stuff]" more than once.
At least traffic was light. I'm not sure my Survey Crew Ahead signs were doing much good, since they spent most of the time bent over almost parallel with the ground.
Twas a blustery day indeed. I felt your pain, although I wasn't pouring concrete. That's quite a hole ya dug there.
that would get old quick. days like that I try to be thankful I'm not cutting brush through the briars. that helps my attitude for about half an hour or so. lol.
> That's quite a hole ya dug there.
It's not a hole anymore. It looks something like this now:
There's an old 1" iron bar marking a rancho corner inside, down about 0.8'.
Normally I'd leave the concrete uncovered, but the air was so dry with yesterday's north wind that I covered it with a plastic trash bag and layer of dirt, and drove 4 lath around it to keep pullover traffic off of it for a few days. I'm hoping that'll keep it from cracking.
Where do you get the access covers?
How much do they cost?
We are going to establish a control network at Jackson State Forest (near Fort Bragg on Hwy 20). I installed an aluminum monument up about 6" with a stone mound. Later talking to the Forest manager, she told me they have people stealing whole steel pipe gates, concrete and all. So we may need to dig deeper and put it under an access cover. I sort of like to have it visible so maybe the blade operator (dirt/gravel forest road) won't destroy it but then hidden might be a good thing. I have a spot with sufficient sky view in a road intersection but I have to put it in big yellow machine danger zone, back in the woods won't work.
Dan thinks maybe just pour a big concrete/stone collar around the monument sticking up and the thieves won't think it's worth their trouble.
> Where do you get the access covers? How much do they cost?
For this I used a Berntsen BMAC6 that I had leftover from another project. I had to grind out the identifying information that was stamped on the rim, but other than that it's brand new.
The BMAC6 is over $60 when you figure in shipping (unless you're buying in quantity), but when you consider the cost of installation and positioning of the mark, it's not a big bite.
If I need to set a monument box for a monument, I go to one city around here and get some broken water valve box's, only use the top half and the lid. I use much smaller diameter holes, dug with a digging bar and post hole diggers. The iron box's and their iron lids work well. When I first started using them, I placed concrete in the bottom of the monument box to stabilize the monument, the darn would did not drain, don't do that any longer. Some reading this will protest about the lids marked as water valve box's, have not heard any complaints from anyone, the filed Record of Survey shows what was set there for those who follow. Do have a couple of angle grinders, one uses a 6" dia. wheel and the small one uses 4" stuff, so grinding the lettering off is an option.
jud
Jim, Why'd you do that? Why not use your God Given Surveying equipment, to set an OFFSET corner? (Tongue in cheek!) you have stooped to ENGINEERING stuff, like cement, cement mixers, and dangerous places to work!!! Like out in the road!
🙂
(I like good monuments too!)
Nate
This installation is part of a contract that specifies what to install under different conditions. I was just following the engineering detail, and happened to have one of the specified access covers on hand. The detail requires use of a sonotube, even though this particular site is a flush install at the direction of the project manager.
Not finding fault, the intent was to let others know that there are other options that I have found that works and has little or no cost in obtaining. If those aluminum PVC box covers were called for in your contract, stick with what the contract says. My experience with what you used is poor, the stainless steel screws used to hold the cover in place strips out the aluminum threads and that allows the lids jump out behind a passing tire, then gets lost or you hope it gets lost before it becomes a missile hazard.
jud
we replaced a screw this week on that same cover, Caltrans HPGN station. It was bent and cross threaded in there but Dan was able to use the new screw for a tap and get it back in there and tied down. Personally I think a Christy box with cast iron lid is better in traffic situation. Jim's isn't directly in traffic but it could get run over. Those are small enough. I guess the Agency gets what they want.
> Jim's isn't directly in traffic but it could get run over.
It's not a traffic-rated lid, but this is kind of out in the middle of nowhere so I don't expect too many vehicles will pull off the pavement right there. I'll probably go back and install a fiberglass witness post to help convince those that might be tempted to pull off to pick another spot instead.
Even if the cover eventually gets lost, there's almost 500 pounds of concrete to keep the monument accessible with minimal digging. (And right now I'm feeling every one of those 500 pounds in my back.)
I HATE THE WIND!!!...It can ruin a perfectly good day. If I had a nickle for every day I made the hate the wind statement, I could retire. :-@
Pablo B-)
I think it's universal.
That would be 365 days a year in Wyoming
SHG
We don't count the days under 25 mph! 25 mph + is a small poodle day. Many SE Wyoming residents start looking for their lambs and small poodles in Western Nebraska @ 35.6 MPH + 😉
Pablo B-)
I hate it too! Even if what we get probably isn't real wind. Much rather work in rain
It doesn’t appear that the top of the monument case is adjustable (cemented in). I personally don’t see a reason for un-adjustable monument cases, but you gave them what they wanted but hopefully they will take some advice in the future. My 2 cents, Jp
> If I need to set a monument box for a monument, I go to one city around here and get some broken water valve box's, only use the top half and the lid. I use much smaller diameter holes, dug with a digging bar and post hole diggers. The iron box's and their iron lids work well. When I first started using them, I placed concrete in the bottom of the monument box to stabilize the monument, the darn would did not drain, don't do that any longer. Some reading this will protest about the lids marked as water valve box's, have not heard any complaints from anyone, the filed Record of Survey shows what was set there for those who follow. Do have a couple of angle grinders, one uses a 6" dia. wheel and the small one uses 4" stuff, so grinding the lettering off is an option.
> jud
I hear you there, we've quite a few valve box tops in the city here. It appears some
have had concrete or grout in them. Worries me every time the ciy goes to do a "grind and inlay" on a street with those valve boxes. Most of the contractors I've seen "adjust grade" on them with a chain hooked to a backhoe. With the amount of street maintenance going on, I worry more and more. I'm more of a fan of the smallish monument box and lid approach with sand or "pea" gravel around the monument and filling the bottom of the box... for drainage, and to "isolate" the movement of the box from the monument in case of the "contractor" factor..!!